Just purchased low hour D6-9U

A couple other fluid checks that are important

Injection pump housing..fill with motor oil until it almost runs out the large plug on the side

Pony pinion clutch housing. Plugs on side to check, about 3/8 or 1/2" square head pipe thread plugs. Fill with engine oil or auto trans fluid....this oil lubes the pony camshaft gear, idler, mag drive gear etc as well as the pony pinion clutch, brake and bearings.

Steering hydraulic assist booster....large hex socket plug under rear of the seat.....can be tight getting to it if you have a rear double drum CCU mounted. Fill with motor oil or hydraulic oil until it runs out the plug hole. You can steer the tractor without this one, but it won't be easy to pull the steering clutch levers. When it leaks out it goes into the bevel gear/transmission compartment, leaving no trace.

If your tracks are frozen solid and cannot be rolled, soaking with water sometimes helps or build a fire and shovel coals onto them to heat them up.

Carb is a zenith TU4C also used on JD pony start Diesels. Partial rebuild Kit available from JD parts. Or look up a Zenith dealer or CAT services individual parts still i believe.

Just from looking at the few pictures it looks like the original paint and the undercarriage looks like new. There's not even any dents in the guards over the tensioner.


Nice tractor, Randy

Looks like a nice one. There are a lot of 9U's running good so I don't see many people wanting to pay big for a original parts good machine,but I have been wrong before. Post it on the for sale here when you get it running and see if any want it. With the parked in the barn was expecting the paint to be some better than picture.

Hopefully the fuel tank was filled before the long nap.I picked up a 9U that hadn't run since the 90's parked in a barn in a near dessert and the fuel tank was very bad rusted.The old fuel burned well never dumped any of it but gave up and used a different fuel tank.

If you have a 12 volt battery you can borrow,us that to test and get you home. CCJersey was has covered most things well,except the wet clutch should also be checked for water and topped off.

Let the board know where you are and someone might be able to come out and help you
Chuck C

Just a couple pointers since you are a novice. Pony starting is a great system.......... no other way you could walk out into freezing cold weather with a rope and a can of gasoline in hand and start a dozer that has been sitting for years...........it will also make you pull your hair out if you have any left. Seems every pony has a combination of throttle and choke settings that works most of the time.....until a crowd has gathered to watch.

For long pony life, always shut it down by returning the throttle to idle (pull out on the knob) and then turn off the gas valve and let it burn the gas in the bowl. I do not use the mag on/off switch, not even connected to the mag terminal any longer.

When engaging the pony pinion, first brake the pinion by pushing the clutch lever rearward HARD. This keeps from grinding the flywheel ring gear teeth down in the same few spots where the diesel engine stops most of the time. Then push pinion lever to rear to shift pinion into mesh with flywheel ring gear. Once it latches in it should stay latched until the diesel catches and speeds up. Then move clutch lever forward to turn the main engine.

If you run the pony turning the diesel under compression with the throttle closed, you can warm the head and cylinders so when you open the throttle, the diesel starts cleanly. If you do this with throttle open, if its very cool, you will wash the cylinders down with unburned fuel before it begins to hit on a few and like as not kick the pinion out so you have to pull the decompression lever and brake and shift the pinion again. Much better to warm it by loading the pony turning the main engine under compression.

When parked on hard surfaces, the oil clutch can have enough drag to make the tractor move a foot or so when the main engine starts if transmission is left in gear without the brake locked or dozer on the ground. Gets your attention!

sounds like a good unit
I know nothing about cold starting ( I live in the tropics ) it still amazes how these machines start after sitting out in the freezing snow for months on end it looks like the walking gear tracks rollers sprockets ect are in good nick which is the main thing as quite often with older machines they arent worth fixing if the walking gear is stuffed

good luck and keep us posted

Paul

Sounds like a lot of good information here. The hour meters can sometimes be deceiving as there is a digit on the right almost out of sight that is often over looked, but even if you have a 700 hour machine that would be unique to have one with all that service life left, good luck.