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Is permatex copper good idea?

Is permatex copper good idea?

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ravenenv
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I'm bolting my manifolds back onto my R5. Does anyone have advice or experience using some permatex copper gasket maker on the manifold surfaces in addition to the gaskets? Or should I just use the gaskets and no permatex? There is some pitting so a little concerned that the gasket by itself may not form tight seal. Gaskets are from Olsen.

Other question - any recommended order of easy manifold reassembly? Seems like it would be best to bolt on exhaust manifold, then bolt heat riser to exhaust and then bolt on the intake manifold last. Still going through this in my head. Or bolt everything together first and heave into place as a single unit?

This turned into a job - some cracks in manifold needed welding, several broken studs...
Ross
Huntsville TX
1937 Cat R5
1957 Oliver OC4
1958 Oliver OC4
1946 Cletrac BGS
1939 Cletrac HG
1938 Cletrac E62
1951 Oliver OC3
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Sun, Mar 15, 2020 11:59 AM
D6c76a
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If there is pitting I'd definitely use some sealer.

We usually use hi temp red permatex,I dont think the spray copper will give you enough squish out to seal pits of corrosion.
Although I do use it lightly on head gaskets I think u will be better off with hi temp rtv.
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Sun, Mar 15, 2020 8:39 PM
edb
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Reply to D6c76a:
If there is pitting I'd definitely use some sealer.

We usually use hi temp red permatex,I dont think the spray copper will give you enough squish out to seal pits of corrosion.
Although I do use it lightly on head gaskets I think u will be better off with hi temp rtv.
Hi Team,
if it is possible, going by the studs that my R5, Thirty-Five & Forty Tractor OMI pictures show, I would fit the manifolds and riser separately for ease, BUT, do not tighten any nuts until all components are in place.

Then I would start by very lightly tightening the manifolds and heat riser nuts a little at a time so as all components can come together without stresses. If you tighten one manifold and then another the first and second one and the heat riser may not come together without stressing a joint, flange, stud etc.

Your manifold maybe cracked due to the high heat encountered during hard running or because they were not tightened in small steps to allow the gaskets to crush and the parts to slide over one another to try and achieve as stress free a working condition/position as possible during the tightening sequence. I usually start at the centre of a manifold and work my way towards the ends in small increments of torque as is done when tensioning a cylinder head for example.

If it were mine I would likely loosen everything and do the sequence a second time after the gaskets have crushed to try and ensure minimum stresses are at play.
Others experience may vary.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Mon, Mar 16, 2020 5:22 AM
ravenenv
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
if it is possible, going by the studs that my R5, Thirty-Five & Forty Tractor OMI pictures show, I would fit the manifolds and riser separately for ease, BUT, do not tighten any nuts until all components are in place.

Then I would start by very lightly tightening the manifolds and heat riser nuts a little at a time so as all components can come together without stresses. If you tighten one manifold and then another the first and second one and the heat riser may not come together without stressing a joint, flange, stud etc.

Your manifold maybe cracked due to the high heat encountered during hard running or because they were not tightened in small steps to allow the gaskets to crush and the parts to slide over one another to try and achieve as stress free a working condition/position as possible during the tightening sequence. I usually start at the centre of a manifold and work my way towards the ends in small increments of torque as is done when tensioning a cylinder head for example.

If it were mine I would likely loosen everything and do the sequence a second time after the gaskets have crushed to try and ensure minimum stresses are at play.
Others experience may vary.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
Thanks for advice on red rtv - I bought some tubes this weekend.

Thanks also for advice regarding sequence of installation. I really wanted to avoid starting bolting up parts with a bunch of rtv everywhere and discover its not going to work. Your sequence makes sense and I will work to leave parts loose initially and then tighten gradually over the network of studs. I had to do this with some water pipes on the R5 that I had to pull and fill in with some brass - they had started corroding through. Bolted them up loose and then tightened them down.

I attached a picture of the exhaust cracks - may be a combination of stress and heat given it is at the base of where heat riser bolts up. You can see where the welds are that I added

Also attached a picture of the R5 - a work in progress but a fun machine to run and work.
Attachment
Attachment
Ross
Huntsville TX
1937 Cat R5
1957 Oliver OC4
1958 Oliver OC4
1946 Cletrac BGS
1939 Cletrac HG
1938 Cletrac E62
1951 Oliver OC3
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Mon, Mar 16, 2020 10:44 AM
ravenenv
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Reply to ravenenv:
Thanks for advice on red rtv - I bought some tubes this weekend.

Thanks also for advice regarding sequence of installation. I really wanted to avoid starting bolting up parts with a bunch of rtv everywhere and discover its not going to work. Your sequence makes sense and I will work to leave parts loose initially and then tighten gradually over the network of studs. I had to do this with some water pipes on the R5 that I had to pull and fill in with some brass - they had started corroding through. Bolted them up loose and then tightened them down.

I attached a picture of the exhaust cracks - may be a combination of stress and heat given it is at the base of where heat riser bolts up. You can see where the welds are that I added

Also attached a picture of the R5 - a work in progress but a fun machine to run and work.
Attachment
Attachment
One other question on these manifolds - any experience and/or recommendations for torque setting when tightening the nuts? I assume less is more in this situation - no more than 20 pounds? I have some concern given the age, type of material and stresses that too much torque could stimulate additional cracking.

Thanks for the help to date!! 😊

Ross
Ross
Huntsville TX
1937 Cat R5
1957 Oliver OC4
1958 Oliver OC4
1946 Cletrac BGS
1939 Cletrac HG
1938 Cletrac E62
1951 Oliver OC3
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Tue, Mar 17, 2020 5:07 AM
edb
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Reply to ravenenv:
One other question on these manifolds - any experience and/or recommendations for torque setting when tightening the nuts? I assume less is more in this situation - no more than 20 pounds? I have some concern given the age, type of material and stresses that too much torque could stimulate additional cracking.

Thanks for the help to date!! 😊

Ross
Hi Ross,
I would give them a try at around 20 all the time feeling for any excessive give signalling an imminent failure of a stud--after a run or two I would re-torque in sequence again.
Old bolt chart suitable for lower grade Cat hardware.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Tue, Mar 17, 2020 7:49 AM
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