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Idler Weld Build Up

Idler Weld Build Up

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Alexjfrench
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I am going to do some weld build up on the idlers and rollers of my D47U.  I will follow the weld build up procedure from Cat but I have a few questions regarding turning them back down.  The small rollers I can turn back down on the lathe although that hard facing might be extremely tough even with ceramic inserts.  My thought was to build a jig on a die plate and use an old surface grinder arbor to grind them back into round.  My front idler would not fit in my lathe anyway.  I would need a gap bed lathe with a pretty good swing to get it in there.  Has anyone ever done anything like this?  Seems like once the jig was built it would be pretty easy.  
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Mon, Oct 25, 2021 9:47 PM
bursitis
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no need to turn them down.
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Tue, Oct 26, 2021 8:16 AM
trainzkid88
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Reply to bursitis:
no need to turn them down.
especially if using abrasicord 600 or 650 it will wear in on its own.
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Tue, Oct 26, 2021 4:07 PM
trainzkid88
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Reply to trainzkid88:
especially if using abrasicord 600 or 650 it will wear in on its own.
the cat roller machine rotates the roller so the bead is concentric to the roller.
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Tue, Oct 26, 2021 4:09 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to trainzkid88:
the cat roller machine rotates the roller so the bead is concentric to the roller.
I used 60-13 rod and just ground down any real high spots with my angle grinder
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Tue, Oct 26, 2021 11:18 PM
neil
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Reply to dpendzic:
I used 60-13 rod and just ground down any real high spots with my angle grinder
I've wondered about that, which is that although it's not required to grind down the weld, there would still be some impact from the high spots hitting the idler surface and the roller surfaces, and I was curious if that impact is material or not?
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Wed, Oct 27, 2021 12:23 AM
d2gary
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Reply to neil:
I've wondered about that, which is that although it's not required to grind down the weld, there would still be some impact from the high spots hitting the idler surface and the roller surfaces, and I was curious if that impact is material or not?
Not an apples to apples comparison but I did the track chains and one bottom roller on my d2 and am amazed at how fast the welds find their own level. I've only run up and down the driveway a few times and I can already see the difference. A friend who has done undercarriage work before also says that the weld doesn't just wear off but also gets peened into the low spots. I did grind some of the high spots but unless they are very excessive I probably wouldn't bother with the grinder again.
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Wed, Oct 27, 2021 3:27 AM
JackD6-5R
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Reply to d2gary:
Not an apples to apples comparison but I did the track chains and one bottom roller on my d2 and am amazed at how fast the welds find their own level. I've only run up and down the driveway a few times and I can already see the difference. A friend who has done undercarriage work before also says that the weld doesn't just wear off but also gets peened into the low spots. I did grind some of the high spots but unless they are very excessive I probably wouldn't bother with the grinder again.
I have thought about having a strap of steel rolled into a circle the right size to fit the idler then welding it to the idler where the chain runs ,but haven't yet tried it.
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Thu, Oct 28, 2021 2:48 AM
d2gary
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Reply to JackD6-5R:
I have thought about having a strap of steel rolled into a circle the right size to fit the idler then welding it to the idler where the chain runs ,but haven't yet tried it.
[quote="JackD6-5R post=232441 userid=836"]I have thought about having a strap of steel rolled into a circle the right size to fit the idler then welding it to the idler where the chain runs ,but haven't yet tried it.

I think the problem with this idea is the steel ring has nothing holding it to the idler in the center section of the added on ring. If you plug welded it every couple inches your success rate would be higher.
The weld build up is a tried an true method  although a little labor intensive. 
This is literally not rocket science  and not that hard to do. We are for the most part hobbyists and don't really need this stuff to go back into production,  very different scenarios. 
 [/quote]
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Thu, Oct 28, 2021 8:47 AM
wimmera farmer
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If I can get photos to load here is a front idler from L Twenty that has had some serious repair. All gas brazed together. Some has cracked after who knows how many hours of work. This tractor came from the South Australian mallee area and has had a lot of care with extra shielding made to try and keep sand out of the tracks also other gas weld repairs. Almost no rust on this tractor even on surfaces that were not painted from the factory. Looked at a 2 ton that is coming up for sale front idler tyres on the outside completly gone and inners paper thin worn to death. cheers WF [attachment=65145]twenty idler jpg.jpg[/attachment] [attachment=65146]twenty idler 2 jpg.JPG[/attachment]
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Thu, Oct 28, 2021 12:02 PM
trainzkid88
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Reply to JackD6-5R:
I have thought about having a strap of steel rolled into a circle the right size to fit the idler then welding it to the idler where the chain runs ,but haven't yet tried it.
[quote="JackD6-5R post=232441 userid=836"]I have thought about having a strap of steel rolled into a circle the right size to fit the idler then welding it to the idler where the chain runs ,but haven't yet tried it.
 
if you made it a slight shrink fit and used a high temp retaining compound that might work. or you could still make it a shrink fit and spot weld it on. and use a medium grade steel instead of mild steel. it would be quicker  than fully welding neater finish. i wonder if you could get some pipe of the right dia to do the same thing out of 6 ft of pipe you would be able to do a full set of track rollers. the front idler would still be a pain.
 [/quote]
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Thu, Oct 28, 2021 2:02 PM
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