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How to unfreeze a D4 Diesel Engine which most like has rust from water in engine

How to unfreeze a D4 Diesel Engine which most like has rust from water in engine

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DavidCatD2
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My brother just picked up a D4 7J series. The prior owner ran it 4 years ago and let it sit in a field since. It ran fine.
They went to pull start it as the pony motor is not currently running. The diesel engine would not turn over being pull started.
We are thinking it has gotten water in the cylinders some how and that is why the engine won't turn. How would you get say penetrating
oil into the diesel engine to dissolve the rust on the cylinders with out tearing it apart or please post what other remedies and ideas as to what is going on.
It rolls fine in neutral.
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Mon, Mar 24, 2014 5:02 AM
neil
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You could try getting some lube into the cylinders but my guess is that's not going to be enough. A possibly better approach (without a teardown) is to get the coolant very hot in the hopes that the thermal expansion might be just enough to break the bond, because once it starts to move then you can magnify it. Also, put a hard bar on to the rear drawbar to your other tractor or pickup and try rocking it to and fro (Drive to Reverse and back to Drive) - if there's any movement at all, the to-and-fro will quickly magnify it. Select top gear in the tractor.
If that doesn't do it, then just pull the cylinder head. It's not that bad of a job, and then you can light some diesel on fire in each pot if they're badly rusted.
My D2 has a seized bearing on the transmission input shaft so make sure you're in neutral before you try pounding the pistons.
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Mon, Mar 24, 2014 5:33 AM
drujinin
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I would tell you to use the SEARCH function in the upper right hand of your screen as this has been discussed before on virtually every size of tractor!
Anyways seen as its Sunday, I'll tell you this much.
Without looking up which set of valves the START/RUN Lever holds open (too lazy to pull the book and look).
Take off the hood, remove the valve cover, push down on the exhaust valves and pour a mixture of Acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) (shaken well before pouring) down the exhaust.
Actually seen as you just bought it and probably don't know, when you first towed it, you should have had the START/RUN Lever set to START as this will hold a set of valves (intake or exhaust) open. This would verify that you are not hydraulically locking which will bend a rod and or crack a piston.
OK?
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Mon, Mar 24, 2014 5:52 AM
ccjersey
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Setting the decompression lever on START opens the intake valves a little bit. So you could pour whatever you want down the intake after removing the pipe to the air filter. I did this with a 5J D2 and just poured diesel in it until it filled up to the top of the air filter. It's still sitting now for several years, so not sure what good I did. I did see that diesel came out the oil pan drain which I left open to check, so I know it got into the cylinders and some made it down into the ring area.

I've heard folks that swear by Coca-cola (the soda) poured into the cylinders to dissolve the rust sticking the rings to the cylinder walls. The Coke has phosphoric acid in it which attacks the rust. Now as to how you would get it in there, the best way would be to remove the injectors and pour it down the precombustion chambers. Just a safer and more effective way to get it in and back out after you get the engine turning.

You will need to make a socket to remove the injectors. It is a 3/4 drive 12 point socket cut in half (take top off) and welded back together with a piece of pipe in between. Then a section of the lower part is cut out to allow the injector nipple to stick out the side and then the socket to turn at least 1/12 of a turn before the nipple hits the edge of the cutout. I would cut a slot big enough to fit the nipple first and then cut again after you see which side of the slot you need to remove to get the turn. If you don't have 3/4" drive ratchet etc, just weld a little longer pipe on and drill a hole for a rod etc through it where it will clear the top of the injectors.

To turn the engine, as others have said, nudging the whole tractor forward and backwards may be the easy way. Make sure that the decompression lever is set to Start or the injectors are out! Sometimes you can get a bar on the flywheel through the clutch inspection and adjustment covers. Do not pry on the clutch linkages, instead pry on the notches of the flywheel that hold the clutch disk or on protrusions of the pressure plate that won't break off. Depending on what is mounted on the front, you may have a driveshaft or coupling you can get access to or there may be a dog for a turning crank or a large nut in the center of the crankshaft pulley that you could get a purchase on. If you have a drive coupling, that would be covered up anyway.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Mar 24, 2014 7:16 AM
King of Obsolete
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Reply to ccjersey:
Setting the decompression lever on START opens the intake valves a little bit. So you could pour whatever you want down the intake after removing the pipe to the air filter. I did this with a 5J D2 and just poured diesel in it until it filled up to the top of the air filter. It's still sitting now for several years, so not sure what good I did. I did see that diesel came out the oil pan drain which I left open to check, so I know it got into the cylinders and some made it down into the ring area.

I've heard folks that swear by Coca-cola (the soda) poured into the cylinders to dissolve the rust sticking the rings to the cylinder walls. The Coke has phosphoric acid in it which attacks the rust. Now as to how you would get it in there, the best way would be to remove the injectors and pour it down the precombustion chambers. Just a safer and more effective way to get it in and back out after you get the engine turning.

You will need to make a socket to remove the injectors. It is a 3/4 drive 12 point socket cut in half (take top off) and welded back together with a piece of pipe in between. Then a section of the lower part is cut out to allow the injector nipple to stick out the side and then the socket to turn at least 1/12 of a turn before the nipple hits the edge of the cutout. I would cut a slot big enough to fit the nipple first and then cut again after you see which side of the slot you need to remove to get the turn. If you don't have 3/4" drive ratchet etc, just weld a little longer pipe on and drill a hole for a rod etc through it where it will clear the top of the injectors.

To turn the engine, as others have said, nudging the whole tractor forward and backwards may be the easy way. Make sure that the decompression lever is set to Start or the injectors are out! Sometimes you can get a bar on the flywheel through the clutch inspection and adjustment covers. Do not pry on the clutch linkages, instead pry on the notches of the flywheel that hold the clutch disk or on protrusions of the pressure plate that won't break off. Depending on what is mounted on the front, you may have a driveshaft or coupling you can get access to or there may be a dog for a turning crank or a large nut in the center of the crankshaft pulley that you could get a purchase on. If you have a drive coupling, that would be covered up anyway.
carb cleaner is heavier then water so it will soak down past the piston and liners. time is your best friend because the longer you let it soak the easier it is get to turn. i don't like pulling a siezed engine because the tracks just slide. i use my "bar starter" which is a big lever and it will break the rusted pictons free.

thansk
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Mon, Mar 24, 2014 9:35 AM
DavidCatD2
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Reply to King of Obsolete:
carb cleaner is heavier then water so it will soak down past the piston and liners. time is your best friend because the longer you let it soak the easier it is get to turn. i don't like pulling a siezed engine because the tracks just slide. i use my "bar starter" which is a big lever and it will break the rusted pictons free.

thansk
KoO
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Thank You very much. My brother and I will work on this. Hopefully it will just break free as it was said to be in good shape before sitting.
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Tue, Mar 25, 2014 6:23 AM
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