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How to leak test a D2 engine

How to leak test a D2 engine

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Uncle Rich
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If you need to leak test your valves to determine if they are sealing, here is a way to do it with minimal tools, and not messing with the injectors. Remove the rocker cover. Fabricate a block-off plate for the intake manifold with a fitting to feed compressed air into the manifold. It is possible on the 311 engine to have all of the valves closed no matter where the crank is. Simply back off the valve adjuster screws of each rocker far enough to close any open valves and achieve clearence. Remove any muffler or exhaust pipe extension so you can listen to the pipe opening. Regulate your compressed air to about 25 psi so the crank stays put and apply the air to the intake manifold. Choose any cylinder and while listening carefully to the exhaust pipe turn the exhaust valve adjuster screw in untill you see the valve compress slightly opening the valve. If you hear no air, you have just determined that the intake valve is sealing the air from coming into the cylinder. Leave the exhaust valve open slightly and now screw the intake adjuster in until the valve opens. You will now hear the air as it enters the cylinder and comes out the exhaust. You can play with the adjuster to hear the intake valve open and close to verify sealing. While leaving the intake open slightly, back off the exhaust adjuster closing the exhaust valve. If you hear the air stop, you now know the exhaust valve is sealing well. Test each cylinder the same way and you'll find you become quite proficient at determining wich valves seal perfectly, and which leak slightly. No leakage is what you hope for. Adjust all your valves back to .012 inch cold when done by rotating the crank a few times to be sure all the adjustments are right. (Spec is .010 hot, but some seniors on this site say .012 cold works.)
I thought I had a burnt valve on my D2 and now I know my valves are all sealing well and I wont be pulling the head, but I still need to figure out why number 2 doesnt run. I now think I have a fuel injector issue.


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Sun, Dec 2, 2012 9:12 AM
ccjersey
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Did you think to listen in the crank case with the exhaust closed and the intake open? If no greater flow through the bad cylinder than the others, you can move on to fuel injection.

Classic way to diagnose is to swap injector from bad cylinder to another one and vice versa. See if the miss moves with the injector or stays with the cylinder (and the injection pump). If it moves, replace the bad injector or probably just put a set in it. If the miss stays with the cylinder, inspect the pump. Look inside the pump housing to make sure the camshaft lobe under that one is not damaged, the lifter yoke is not broken and the plunger is actually moving up and down keeping the lifter on the cam lobe at all times.

In general, if a plunger is stuck up in the pump, it will also lock the rack so where ever the rack was is how much fuel it will get if it starts .............can get exciting😆 Spray stuck plungers with penetrating oil and work the lifter up and down as much as you can. Try not to put a lot of force on the rack, the gear sector on each plunger can be moved and ruin the calibration of that pump/plunger assembly. If all the plungers move up and down as you rotate the engine, then if the rack doesn' t move easily back and forth, you should be safe to work it back and forth with a bar or something as you spray the slides where it moves through the housing.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Dec 2, 2012 10:48 AM
Uncle Rich
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Reply to ccjersey:
Did you think to listen in the crank case with the exhaust closed and the intake open? If no greater flow through the bad cylinder than the others, you can move on to fuel injection.

Classic way to diagnose is to swap injector from bad cylinder to another one and vice versa. See if the miss moves with the injector or stays with the cylinder (and the injection pump). If it moves, replace the bad injector or probably just put a set in it. If the miss stays with the cylinder, inspect the pump. Look inside the pump housing to make sure the camshaft lobe under that one is not damaged, the lifter yoke is not broken and the plunger is actually moving up and down keeping the lifter on the cam lobe at all times.

In general, if a plunger is stuck up in the pump, it will also lock the rack so where ever the rack was is how much fuel it will get if it starts .............can get exciting😆 Spray stuck plungers with penetrating oil and work the lifter up and down as much as you can. Try not to put a lot of force on the rack, the gear sector on each plunger can be moved and ruin the calibration of that pump/plunger assembly. If all the plungers move up and down as you rotate the engine, then if the rack doesn' t move easily back and forth, you should be safe to work it back and forth with a bar or something as you spray the slides where it moves through the housing.
Thanks cc,
I think the ring leakage is about the same all the way across. I've been through my injection pump and everything looks good there. Fuel comes out the line on number 2 but my engine has a distinct miss, is hard to start, seems low on power, and smokes white. The only thing remaining now is the injectors. Do they fail often? Do they carbon up? Do they cause symptoms like mine? I guess I just need to pull them out and learn. I really thought I had a bad valve by the way it sounds, but they seem to seal well. I ve got 40 years experience with small gas engines, but this is my first Diesel. I,m having fun but need to get this thing figured out.
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Sun, Dec 2, 2012 11:27 AM
ccjersey
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Reply to Uncle Rich:
Thanks cc,
I think the ring leakage is about the same all the way across. I've been through my injection pump and everything looks good there. Fuel comes out the line on number 2 but my engine has a distinct miss, is hard to start, seems low on power, and smokes white. The only thing remaining now is the injectors. Do they fail often? Do they carbon up? Do they cause symptoms like mine? I guess I just need to pull them out and learn. I really thought I had a bad valve by the way it sounds, but they seem to seal well. I ve got 40 years experience with small gas engines, but this is my first Diesel. I,m having fun but need to get this thing figured out.
Injectors do get 'weak' over time and sometimes flat out quit spraying and go to streaming fuel.

If you want to see for yourself, you can either take them to a shop with a tester and have them checked and perhaps the hole cleaned out with a tiny drill bit to see if carbon buildup is the problem or just replace once you know that's the trouble.

To test yourself, you can remove the injectors and fuel lines to them. Carefully clean around the connections before hand and keep them clean when you have them off. Reinstall the lines routed out over the track and angled forward toward the radiator some and screw the injectors onto the lines. NOTE! The capsule type injector "valve" as CAT calls it screws onto the adapter or body of assembly only finger tight! It has a loose coarse thread to allow fuel to pass through into the valve from the adapter piece. If everything is clean, finger tight is enough to test them.

Once you get them mounted all on the lines, start the pony motor or turn the engine over with the starter, throttle open and watch the spray pattern. Again, if you have one streaming or doing something abnormal, swap it with another one that's spraying a nice even fine spray. Keep hands away from the spray! Diesel or hydraulic oil injected under the skin a medical emergency. Proper treatment is required or gangrene may set in! Be careful.

Hold down nuts are torqued to 100 foot pounds and there are some o-rings and seals that keep dust and debris out of the space around the injector that you should replace when you do the final install. Fuel injection lines don't normally need to be more than good snug tight. If you have one leak, then tighten some more, but usually a leaker means you have a damaged ferrule on the end of a line. About your only choice is to replace the line. I have never had any luck repairing one that leaked even when tight.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Dec 2, 2012 11:51 AM
Uncle Rich
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Reply to ccjersey:
Injectors do get 'weak' over time and sometimes flat out quit spraying and go to streaming fuel.

If you want to see for yourself, you can either take them to a shop with a tester and have them checked and perhaps the hole cleaned out with a tiny drill bit to see if carbon buildup is the problem or just replace once you know that's the trouble.

To test yourself, you can remove the injectors and fuel lines to them. Carefully clean around the connections before hand and keep them clean when you have them off. Reinstall the lines routed out over the track and angled forward toward the radiator some and screw the injectors onto the lines. NOTE! The capsule type injector "valve" as CAT calls it screws onto the adapter or body of assembly only finger tight! It has a loose coarse thread to allow fuel to pass through into the valve from the adapter piece. If everything is clean, finger tight is enough to test them.

Once you get them mounted all on the lines, start the pony motor or turn the engine over with the starter, throttle open and watch the spray pattern. Again, if you have one streaming or doing something abnormal, swap it with another one that's spraying a nice even fine spray. Keep hands away from the spray! Diesel or hydraulic oil injected under the skin a medical emergency. Proper treatment is required or gangrene may set in! Be careful.

Hold down nuts are torqued to 100 foot pounds and there are some o-rings and seals that keep dust and debris out of the space around the injector that you should replace when you do the final install. Fuel injection lines don't normally need to be more than good snug tight. If you have one leak, then tighten some more, but usually a leaker means you have a damaged ferrule on the end of a line. About your only choice is to replace the line. I have never had any luck repairing one that leaked even when tight.
Ok, that's what, I,ll do. Good advice! I think I,ll have to wait until spring, I,ts getting cold and will be snowing soon here in Wisconsin. This will be bugging me all winter.
We do have an injection shop here in Wausau that specializes in automotive and industrial Diesel injection so I could take them there for expert advice.
Thanks.
Merry Christmas
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Sun, Dec 2, 2012 9:07 PM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to Uncle Rich:
Ok, that's what, I,ll do. Good advice! I think I,ll have to wait until spring, I,ts getting cold and will be snowing soon here in Wisconsin. This will be bugging me all winter.
We do have an injection shop here in Wausau that specializes in automotive and industrial Diesel injection so I could take them there for expert advice.
Thanks.
Merry Christmas
One rather cold day last winter one of my log skidders(Detroit 453)would only idle upon starting and it was blowing pure white smoke. Suspecting a stripped drive gear I removed the blower and finding the drive good we checked the injection system. All was good there. Air filters had less than 20 hours on them. Finally I started the motor with the blower cover off to see if it was turning and the motor ran perfect. That led me back to the air cleaner and I finally discovered that woods mice had ate a hole in the rubber dust drain on the bottom of the air cleaner and crawled in and built a nest in the intake tube between the precleaner and the air cleaner box. They had it plugged solid in one night. I don't think you got an lack of air if its only missing on one cylinder but it is an easy check.
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Mon, Dec 3, 2012 5:14 AM
ccjersey
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Hard to imagine it being too cold to work. It has been in the mid to upper 70's here for a few days now! Crazy weather!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Dec 3, 2012 8:21 AM
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