How bad is this crack?

Hi, Hdroadkingc.
If you take a fine point felt tip marking pen, about an 0.4, which you might use for normal writing and use it to mark the line of the crack before you photograph it, it will give the folks on here a better idea of exactly where the crack is and how serious it might be.

As a 'general' rule, provided that such cracks are properly 'V'-ed out and welded by someone who knows what they are doing, they are seldom a problem. There can always be an exception to such general rule.

Hope this helps.

I hear about that happening ocassionally.....probably due to chunks between the gears during failure. Also can be caused by cocking of the the bull gear if bearing adjustment is not maintained. Don't hear to much about fixes and how they work out. The bad ones are major and turn in to parts tractors. Certainly worth a shot at welding it up. Can be a problem if the crack enters a bearing retaining bore.

Here are the pictures of the damage. I hope this can be welded! Tell me what you think.

Here are the pictures of the damage. I hope this can be welded! Tell me what you think.

The D5's and D6's track tractors of that vintage are known for cracking along the front of the case of the steering clutch housing. That picture looks quite bad. At the very least after that is welded the bearing bores will need to be line bored and sealing surface will need some work. That final pinion is about 400% worn looks like a deferred maintaince issue.


Here is a picture of a D5b that was brought in for its annual inspection, ended up getting new UC, finals and replaced 2 & 3 gears in the trans along with all of the bearings.

Many years ago, when I was at the JD dealer, one of the salesmen traded for a nice D4 that had a crack all the way across the top of the case into the steering clutch compartment, it had broken a tooth off the bull gear...he tore it down himself, had too much in it to have the shop do it, & it sat outside the shop for about 6-8 mo., as I remember... a long time, anyway...finally got a local welder that could stitch anything back together to come & fix it. Turned out really nice, but the memorable part of the story is that he put the bevel gear in backwards, I will never forget the look on his face when he got her fired up, put her in 1st, & she went backwards...put her in reverse, & she went forwards...😆 He was not a happy camper to have to go back in & flop the bevel gear...Like the others said, that ugly bearing bore would worry me more than the crack, actually.

First you should get the steering clutches out,clutch drive flange off,the pinion and the pinion bearing carrier out,the outer end of the carrier is broken so you need a replacement,bolt it in place and see how it fits in the casing bore where it is cracked,it just slips in when good,it should be snug but as there is a bearing supporting the outer end of the pinion in the cover so you may get away with it,if its a little loose bearing lock or the like can be used,I'v even used a speedi sleeve,about the crack,if its not going to leak oil leave it,welding it will not stop it from cracking or the cracks getting longer,it is very crappy cast,metal stiching would be better,make sure the cover is not cracked as that will have to hold things together from now on.
AJ

Hi AJ,
Ya got me breaking out the parts book...and yes it's the end of the cage that is broken. Also see this is still the same old housing arrangement (and problem) since the D4C. I'm not convinced that the failure would not occur again if the crack is not tended to. The cage still needs the support. Would agree the metal stiching would be a good alternative.

The pinion bearing carrier is not broken. The crack starts in the oiler (I think)hole beside the pinion carrier. I am working on getting the pinion out now. Will let you knwo more when I get it out. Thanks.