Help/Advice on D6 Starting Engine Clutch

you need to lift the poney motor about 2 inchs for removing the pinion cluch.

I do not have a D6, however.
Since D2, D4, D6 pony systems are similar.
This info is from the D2 manual.

Drain coolant.
Drain oil from Starter Drive.
Disconnect cooling line to head.
remove dash panel and hood.
remove all bolts (just went and counted 8 holes) there are also two dowel pins.
(unless you are very lucky and somebody greased one side of the gasket at the base of the Pony Motor. You will be replacing that gasket.)
(Basically remove Pony Motor and secure somewhere.)(Manual shows cables under each cylinder for lifting)
Removing or lifting the Pony gets the idler gear out of the way from the starter drive.
On the D2 5U series with the governor behind the Injection Pump.
Take the cover off the end of the governor)
Take the cover plate off the end of the starter drive.
(the previous two covers removed provide clearance to get the starter drive out of the hole.)
mentioned in the manual would be to set the pinion to the engaged position. This would shorten the drive by about 1 1/2 inches.

Taking the handle off with the cover may make things easier. (not mentioned in the instructions)
Manual says to remove an inspection cover bolt top right.

Mine was removed by somebody sawing the end off the stop and plunger.
I have since acquired the repair parts and waiting for crawler to arrive home on Monday 😄 to put it back in.

Hope this helps.

A good original manual. you need the engine manual for this info.
but you should have all four.

Operations and Maintenance
Engine
Chassis Manual
Parts book

Originals are much better for the pictures.
Copies are available from a couple of sources.

Have fun
Cheers
Dudley

Yes, removal items are similar to the D2 &D4 but:
Be sure to drain the crankcase before breaking the pony to housing seal or you will have an oil flood mess.
Also remove the magneto before lifting the pony. Rest of the stuff is fairly obvious.

Don't have to mess with the governor to get the starting engine clutch/pinion out on the D6.

Hey OM,
Thanks for straightening out the minor points.

Is removing the Magneto a better safe than sorry item. or is it mounted differently on the D6?

Thanks
Dudley
Monday is coming.😄

Yes, removal items are similar to the D2 &D4 but:
Be sure to drain the crankcase before breaking the pony to housing seal or you will have an oil flood mess.
Also remove the magneto before lifting the pony. Rest of the stuff is fairly obvious.

Don't have to mess with the governor to get the starting engine clutch/pinion out on the D6.

Do you know of a good source to buy parts for D6 9U


[quote="Old Magnet"]Yes, removal items are similar to the D2 &D4 but:
Be sure to drain the crankcase before breaking the pony to housing seal or you will have an oil flood mess.
Also remove the magneto before lifting the pony. Rest of the stuff is fairly obvious.

Don't have to mess with the governor to get the starting engine clutch/pinion out on the D6.[/quote]

I don't have a specific source....what is it that you need??
Most parts are still available new and used.

Broke a Crank shaft. I believe the main motor has been replaced. Can not find serial number. This tractor has a winch on rear was told that number may be under mounts for this winch. All so was told that an old 14 blade had same pony motor or at least same internal parts.
Gerry Fairbanks AK

Most of the D318 starting engine and even diesel parts same as a D6 8U & 9U & many other machines using the D318 should work in the starting engine or diesel engine.