I'm afraid your stuck getting the pins fabricated then hardened. I don't know of anyone that uses pins like that with the two end bolt retainers. Also those Cat pins aren't all that hard. I'm about to take on my D4 set up myself and was considering using nonhardened shaft (I'd have to look up the designation). Considering the cylinder bushings are brass I don't think the shaft would have to be all that hard. Open to opinions and thoughts😉
I think if you got the new bushings, then machine fit the pins made out of 1045 steel. I think this would be fine since you won't be using it every day. Also I can't remember, but are those pins welded into the blade?
You won't be able to easily weld a hadened pin and 1045 is much cheaper than having a hardened pin made. Just my 2 cents.
Over the years, I have had good luck using old hydraulic cylinder rods.
Find the proper diameter, Then cut to length
Cylinder rods have a fairly soft center,and a hardened outside as well chrome
plating
where ever you are going to work on the rod -
cut off or drill-
you should grind off outer layer with small grinder, ortherwise you will dull your tool. DO NOT use cutoff wheel or torch !
heat will harden rod to an unworkable state
Yes, the pins are welded into the various arms and braces. I would think 1045 would work fine (cylinder rods included😊 )
I'm doing the same to my D25U angle blade. I found bushings at my local bearing supply house for about one third the cost from Cat. When I measured my pins with a digital micrometer, I found very little wear. The wear was all in the bushings, which is as it should be. Check the pins before you go to all the trouble of replacing them.