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Head Gasket Replacement

Head Gasket Replacement

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chruska
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I'm looking for some advice on replacing the head gasket on my Cat d2 5U. I haven't received the gasket yet. But here's the catch.
I replaced the head gasket once already when I rebuilt the engine. The head got planed and totally re-built. once I had everything tightened down I noticed diesel coming past the head gasket once
the engine had warmed up. It was also miss firing on cylinder one (which I believe to be a damaged injection pump/plunger). I ordered another head gasket and I need some advice on how to prepare the surfaces and
if I should accompany the head gasket with a sealing angent. I should note that I was not present when the first head gasket was put on. I have the torque specs.
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Tue, Apr 15, 2014 3:50 AM
restore49
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Be sure to check the liner projection is within specifications. Bob
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Tue, Apr 15, 2014 5:15 AM
DPete
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Reply to restore49:
Be sure to check the liner projection is within specifications. Bob
Clean the block with emery cloth, need to get all the carbon off. Make sure the nozzles are good and they are tight, kind of sounds like the # 1 may be bad and over fueling. I would go with Cat nozzles, I had a set of aftermarket and the tractor ran poorly, put in a set of Cat, the difference was night and day.
1962 D4C
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Tue, Apr 15, 2014 7:49 AM
sandcreek
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Reply to DPete:
Clean the block with emery cloth, need to get all the carbon off. Make sure the nozzles are good and they are tight, kind of sounds like the # 1 may be bad and over fueling. I would go with Cat nozzles, I had a set of aftermarket and the tractor ran poorly, put in a set of Cat, the difference was night and day.
Run a die over the threads on the studs and sure the nuts are good. I use a die grinder with roloc abrasive disks to clean gasket surfaces. I also use copper spray on sealant. I buy it at the local auto parts store. It makes the gasket sticky to help seal it.
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Tue, Apr 15, 2014 8:08 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to sandcreek:
Run a die over the threads on the studs and sure the nuts are good. I use a die grinder with roloc abrasive disks to clean gasket surfaces. I also use copper spray on sealant. I buy it at the local auto parts store. It makes the gasket sticky to help seal it.
Use this sealer, both sides of gasket.
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Tue, Apr 15, 2014 8:48 AM
restore49
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Use this sealer, both sides of gasket.
I used the 300 Permatex - first couple of start cool down (after re-torque head) had some seepage - it cleared up after a few more cycles. The 300 does not get hard and continues to seal? Bob
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Wed, Apr 16, 2014 5:50 AM
DPete
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Reply to restore49:
I used the 300 Permatex - first couple of start cool down (after re-torque head) had some seepage - it cleared up after a few more cycles. The 300 does not get hard and continues to seal? Bob
Guess I'm the black sheep, put mine on dry, no leaks so far. We'll give her a good workout in Tulare and see what happens
1962 D4C
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Wed, Apr 16, 2014 9:05 PM
AJ.
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Reply to DPete:
Guess I'm the black sheep, put mine on dry, no leaks so far. We'll give her a good workout in Tulare and see what happens
That sounds like the head is not pinching the gasket,how much has been planed off it,is there dowels? could the holes be too shallow,is all the carbon cleaned from around the studs where they go in the block,if the head is not seating right you will have an over heating issue if compression gets to the coolant so the liner protrusion need to be correct,neat fuel going into the cylinder will wash off the oil and you will have a seizure.
Good luck
AJ
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Fri, Apr 18, 2014 4:52 PM
Showing 1 to 7 of 7 results
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