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Grouser placement and style

Grouser placement and style

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Agman101
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Hello brain trust - I'm going to build up the grousers on a HT4 that's the goal. The questions, there are 3 bar grousers already on the shoes, worn down to 3/4 +/- from the shoe floor, I intend to add another 1"....which grouser should be built up? leading, middle or trailing I've looked at pics allover the web some are front edge of shoe, some rear, haven't seen pics of the shoe on the tractor. Another question style of grouser pattern, a couple of times this past winter I got caught on ice, spinning and grinning, used bucket to push,pull out the pattern I'm leaning toward is like an ice and dirt grouser in the parts catalogue 2 segments welded on and a gap between the two on the leading bar? and 3rd piece on the last bar in the middle? The tractor is/will be used in the winter cordwood and clearing and building two ponds, there are hillside roads, boulders from soccer ball to VW bug size and the soil is heavy black loam with all sorts of water. please give me your opinions thanks
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Sat, Apr 6, 2019 10:23 PM
Old Magnet
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Original 3-bar grouser height is 1". If you must I'd say build up the leading bar with gap as you mention. If your primarily using it as a dozer you might consider using dozer grousers. Those flat shoe grousers are absolutely useless when trying to get traction in mud, snow, ice, forest debris etc. especially if trying to climb a grade. On the other hand raised grousers will tear up anything when maneuvering as the loader was designed to do.
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Mon, Apr 8, 2019 1:20 PM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Original 3-bar grouser height is 1". If you must I'd say build up the leading bar with gap as you mention. If your primarily using it as a dozer you might consider using dozer grousers. Those flat shoe grousers are absolutely useless when trying to get traction in mud, snow, ice, forest debris etc. especially if trying to climb a grade. On the other hand raised grousers will tear up anything when maneuvering as the loader was designed to do.
Hi, Agman101.
As I understand it, what you are talking about are commonly called 'ice caulks' - or 'high heels' as one Northern Manitoba visitor to this 4um - King of Obsolete - calls them.

I have zero experience of working on ice but I suspect that I would be doing pretty much what you describe, two short pieces of 're-bar' on the outer ends of the front grouser of those triple grouser plates and one in the middle on the back grouser. It'z possibly a moot point but I did wonder about alternating the pattern between grouser plates.

Just my 0.02. Happy skating.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Mon, Apr 8, 2019 1:36 PM
edb
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Agman101.
As I understand it, what you are talking about are commonly called 'ice caulks' - or 'high heels' as one Northern Manitoba visitor to this 4um - King of Obsolete - calls them.

I have zero experience of working on ice but I suspect that I would be doing pretty much what you describe, two short pieces of 're-bar' on the outer ends of the front grouser of those triple grouser plates and one in the middle on the back grouser. It'z possibly a moot point but I did wonder about alternating the pattern between grouser plates.

Just my 0.02. Happy skating.
Hi Team,
scan from a D6C Parts Book shows the grouser bar placement in relation the the track chain and the position of the bar higher sections on the bar section as well as the for and aft side slip spags.

The trapezoidal cut outs help stop snow/ice build up that usually results in "track popping"--jumping a tooth on the sprocket.
I feel you can adapt your current 3 bar grouser shoes to this style and add a short section of bar the the centre of the other outside (trailing) bar--as you originally said.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Tue, Apr 9, 2019 8:50 AM
Agman101
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
scan from a D6C Parts Book shows the grouser bar placement in relation the the track chain and the position of the bar higher sections on the bar section as well as the for and aft side slip spags.

The trapezoidal cut outs help stop snow/ice build up that usually results in "track popping"--jumping a tooth on the sprocket.
I feel you can adapt your current 3 bar grouser shoes to this style and add a short section of bar the the centre of the other outside (trailing) bar--as you originally said.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
Thank you for the input and views - I don't mind the tearing up the pattern and build-up will result in; 1. I'll trade that any day for the peace of mind sticking to the hillside will have 2. There will be a time where that machine will have to get down and grunt and i'd rather push/lift than spin and grin and swear and 3. I plan on building a ripper for it and I'm sure translating more to the floor will make a better result there. We bought this place 5 yrs ago, it was a farm in the grandads time '01- 19 not 20- logged off, cleared and now needs it all again at 100 acres I'll have weekends booked, that 4 cylinder will have all the kinks and crud worked out of it
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Wed, Apr 10, 2019 3:13 AM
rmyram
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you can buy the grouser material in ten or 20 foot sections and cut it yourself in a band saw to save some money, if it were my machine i would just add the caulks to it (sounds like corks when pronounced) we always insatelld ina spread pattern at the dealer, two on one shoe, then 1 centred on the next shoe. if you added 3 inch long caulks, then you would have plenty of traction and side slope stability. you can buy the grouser material in 1" up to 3" heights, with varying thickness. make sure that the the caulks are eenly spaced from the centre line of the grouser plate so you don't side load the chains and cause uneven rail wear and uneven pin and bushing wear. ive seen guys install them one each pad and alternate from the outer edges, inside, outside, it detroyed the chains pretty rapidly.

regular carbon steel wont last as long, and you'd have to get pretty thick stuff, 5/8" at a minimum or else it will tear off if you spin the tracks in the rocks.
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Wed, Apr 10, 2019 11:47 AM
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