got a d6 9u1564 need clutch assembly info

Early dry clutch:

thats exzctly what i needed thank you

I am still have some used d6 dry cluch parts.

I'm no expert on it, but I just redid the dry clutch on my D6-9U -- S/N 1417. If you have any questions, or need any reference photos, just say so. I may have a photo of what a broken one looks like. 😊

i need to find a cheap place to get the link asembly part number 9B399 if anyone know a good part source. when me and my dad pulled the cover plate off we found most of them in the bottom of the housing and what was left of them hanging by a thread inside. and well if anyone can tell me what the point of these are would be nice pretty new to these machines even worse jumping into one from 1948.

anyone have any experience with industrial massey fergusions me and my dad bought one about 4 years ago and its having fuel problems whoever owned it before us ripped the id tag off. all that we really know is its got the three cylinder perkins ad3 and a model 200 front loading bucket. just wondering if theres anyone who would have any idea if so ill post some pictures.

Norcan Parts (www.norcan-parts.com) in Spokane had after market links for $35 each. Old Magnet recommended going with new from CAT (still available for $92 each), but I had no complaints on the quality on the ones I got. Of course, I'm local to Norcan, so I could just pop by and get them, but they do ship. Florin Tractor in California was a life-saver for the other parts. (see the sticky post on sources for their number)

That said, if all your links are shredded, I suspect you have other problems. On my machine, it appeared no one had greased the drive plate bearing in years. I confess I hadn't greased it either, but I haven't put enough hours on the machine to account for how dry it was, and how damaged it was. When I cranked up the RPM on the engine, there was enough shaking of the drive plate (on account of the bearing being shot), to rip apart a link and a shackle.

I defer to the wiser and more experienced folks on the list, but you definitely need to tear it down and find out what else is shot.

same shaking problem here doesnt look like anyones greased these bearings in years either we only have about 4 hours on the machine and couldnt find the greasing fitting on it the first time greasing through. so next steps gonna be checking the bearing thanks for the info.

A couple of tips for you:

#1 -- to remove the pins from the flywheel you'll either need a big wrench, or a VERY deep socket. They are 1 3/8". I found an extra deep well (4" breech depth) at NAPA. That, a breaker bar, and a long pipe were critical to removing the pins so I could bring the clutch assembly out. I had tried a wrench, but I couldn't get a good angle.

#2 -- the clutch assembly is heavy. On my machine I have a ROPS cage that happens to have a flange on top. I used a power-puller / come-along to raise the assembly out. I found it was actually easier to use two of them when I put it back in, as that way I could keep it level.

If it's shaking, your bearing is probably shot, but you really won't know until you tear the thing apart and pull the clutch assembly out. If you're lucky, you can just rebuild it, instead of replacing it. Many parts are still available from CAT directly.

While you've got it torn apart, you probably want to consider changing the friction segments on the clutch plates if they are getting close to end of life. Norcan did a very nice job rebuilding mine. It ran me around $1500 to redo my clutch, but 1/2 of that was a new clutch plate, as mine was cracked in half.