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Generator to alternator conversion options.

Generator to alternator conversion options.

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raklet
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I got the 70D rebuilt and converted it to electric start at the same time. I still need a source to charge the batteries. The grader still has the old 6 volt generator on it. OM made reference to a setup he liked here:

http://www.acmocbb.org/ACMOC_BB/showthread.php?6050-Electric-Start-Success!&p=35842#post35842

but whatever pictures were attached have been removed. Can someone guide me to posts that talk about converting from a generator to an alternator or modifying to generator to output 12 volt instead of 6?

Thanks.
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Thu, Oct 7, 2010 12:11 AM
Old Magnet
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The 6V generator can be rewired to 12V. I believe they use the same armature and change the field coils.

This is probably the missing picture....that's a CME (Florida) adapter 305-633-1524. Uses Lovjoy coupling and retains cooling fan unlike some others. Shown is the Motorolla alt which can be changed to a Delco Remy 10/12SI with the three bolt housing adapter available from
whttp://stores.shop.ebay.com/Triodiode-DC-Electric-And-Tractor
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Thu, Oct 7, 2010 7:17 AM
jw45
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The 6V generator can be rewired to 12V. I believe they use the same armature and change the field coils.

This is probably the missing picture....that's a CME (Florida) adapter 305-633-1524. Uses Lovjoy coupling and retains cooling fan unlike some others. Shown is the Motorolla alt which can be changed to a Delco Remy 10/12SI with the three bolt housing adapter available from
whttp://stores.shop.ebay.com/Triodiode-DC-Electric-And-Tractor
hope this helps works very well
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Thu, Oct 7, 2010 7:26 AM
Steve A
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Reply to jw45:
hope this helps works very well
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That looks like nice work. I think the design would benifit from a 3x larger drive pully to get the alt up in RPMs
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Thu, Oct 7, 2010 9:22 AM
ol Grump
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Reply to Steve A:
That looks like nice work. I think the design would benifit from a 3x larger drive pully to get the alt up in RPMs
Here's a pic of a gizzy I built to put an alternator on a D4 7U. Some thinking, a little measuring, some cutting and welding, a little wrenching and viola, alternator was mounted.
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Thu, Oct 7, 2010 8:09 PM
raklet
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Reply to ol Grump:
Here's a pic of a gizzy I built to put an alternator on a D4 7U. Some thinking, a little measuring, some cutting and welding, a little wrenching and viola, alternator was mounted.
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Those all look like very good ideas. Thanks for sharing.

If I wanted to look at using the generator / regulator with upgraded field coils, where do I find info on testing to see whether it even A) works and 😎 how the regulator / generator / key switch / battery are all wired together. This is stuff I can't seem to find in my cat manuals and I have absolutely no experience with generators and their function.

Thanks.
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Thu, Oct 7, 2010 8:18 PM
ccjersey
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there is usually a wiring diagram in the back of your operator's instructions book. Basically the regulator has 3 sections, the first is a cutout that keeps the generator from discharging the battery (it becomes a motor!) when the engine isn't running fast enough to charge it or is stopped. This is voltage sensitive, it reads the output voltage of the generator (gen or arm terminal). Then there is a voltage regulator section that opens and closes a contact, actually vibrating it to control the field on the generator so the output voltage stays within a normal range. Then there is an amperage section that controls the current through the generator. This keeps the whole system safe.

I haven't ever done a 6 volt to 12, but I know every generator I have ever come across can make well over the nominal voltage. I have a 24 volt generator on our 99E grader and it's voltage can get into the 40's when it's open circuited. So my suggestion for someone who only needs to keep the batteries charged is to see if adjusting the regulator up to 12 volts output voltage or changing the regulator only will give you enough output before going the extra step and changing out the field coils. If you need lights etc, then you may not get enough out of it this way.

Have you got a generator and starter shop nearby?
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Oct 7, 2010 8:36 PM
jw45
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Reply to ccjersey:
there is usually a wiring diagram in the back of your operator's instructions book. Basically the regulator has 3 sections, the first is a cutout that keeps the generator from discharging the battery (it becomes a motor!) when the engine isn't running fast enough to charge it or is stopped. This is voltage sensitive, it reads the output voltage of the generator (gen or arm terminal). Then there is a voltage regulator section that opens and closes a contact, actually vibrating it to control the field on the generator so the output voltage stays within a normal range. Then there is an amperage section that controls the current through the generator. This keeps the whole system safe.

I haven't ever done a 6 volt to 12, but I know every generator I have ever come across can make well over the nominal voltage. I have a 24 volt generator on our 99E grader and it's voltage can get into the 40's when it's open circuited. So my suggestion for someone who only needs to keep the batteries charged is to see if adjusting the regulator up to 12 volts output voltage or changing the regulator only will give you enough output before going the extra step and changing out the field coils. If you need lights etc, then you may not get enough out of it this way.

Have you got a generator and starter shop nearby?
steve it puts out 40 amps at idle i turn the alt just fast enough to get the job done doesnt take much if you use it one wire you have to up the rpm to get it started but i added 12 volts through switch charges instantly at low rpm and is much better on output yes thier is room for up to 6 in pulley
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Thu, Oct 7, 2010 9:42 PM
rditz
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Reply to jw45:
steve it puts out 40 amps at idle i turn the alt just fast enough to get the job done doesnt take much if you use it one wire you have to up the rpm to get it started but i added 12 volts through switch charges instantly at low rpm and is much better on output yes thier is room for up to 6 in pulley
jw45,

I bet if you made a "kit" with the bits and pieces to do your conversion, you would have much interest in it... I know that I would definitely be interested as the adapter that Old Magnet made reference to earlier is quite expensive (over $300.00 not including alternator)...

just a thought.

rod
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Thu, Oct 7, 2010 10:42 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to rditz:
jw45,

I bet if you made a "kit" with the bits and pieces to do your conversion, you would have much interest in it... I know that I would definitely be interested as the adapter that Old Magnet made reference to earlier is quite expensive (over $300.00 not including alternator)...

just a thought.

rod
The latest kit attempt was by OzDozer & friends. Looks good but apparently the attachment points used on the Alternator are not accurate and consistent enough to assure alignment.
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Fri, Oct 8, 2010 12:00 AM
invisabledog
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The latest kit attempt was by OzDozer & friends. Looks good but apparently the attachment points used on the Alternator are not accurate and consistent enough to assure alignment.
OzDozer & co. may be onto something. How about just a piece of rubber hose as a drive coupling?
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Fri, Oct 8, 2010 12:07 AM
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