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Gear oil leaking out of into final drive

Gear oil leaking out of into final drive

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wibbdog
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I have d47u. The Transmission oil is leaking. Out of the final drive plug. Not the final drive oil drain plug
It's leaking maybe a gallon in six hours when in use only
D4 7U 36840
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Thu, Apr 30, 2015 7:24 AM
ccjersey
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I am trying to understand how transmission/bevel gear housing lubricant can cross the dry steering clutch compartments on each side to reach the final drives and make them run over. Any chance the steering clutch compartments are full of oil?
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Apr 30, 2015 10:04 AM
wibbdog
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Reply to ccjersey:
I am trying to understand how transmission/bevel gear housing lubricant can cross the dry steering clutch compartments on each side to reach the final drives and make them run over. Any chance the steering clutch compartments are full of oil?
It is not leaking into the final drives. The plugs are out on the back side of the final drives. So if water or in this case 80-90 oil.
It doesn't accumulate I have not had this part of the tractor apart yet so I anyone has any input on what seal could be causing this. It would be greatly appreciated
Tha ks
D4 7U 36840
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Fri, May 1, 2015 3:23 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to wibbdog:
It is not leaking into the final drives. The plugs are out on the back side of the final drives. So if water or in this case 80-90 oil.
It doesn't accumulate I have not had this part of the tractor apart yet so I anyone has any input on what seal could be causing this. It would be greatly appreciated
Tha ks
I'll suggest it will be the seal on the cross shaft next to the steering clutch thrust bearing, there is a seal on both sides of the crown/bevel wheel housing, or "Doghouse" as someone described it to me the other day which hold the oil in the gearbox, you will need to remove the tranny top, complete cross shaft and steering clutch to gain access to them which is a bit of a job as the clutch packs need to be pressed back on the cross shaft, though the parts will be fairly inexpensive.

My D4 7U Parts Number book is for later tractors, there were over 44,000 7U tractors built, my book is for D4 7U27570 up and it shows 2 different cross shaft part numbers, plus steering clutch thrust bearings, bearing cage and seal numbers so be aware of this before buying parts, double check your numbers as you take them out because someone might have used oddball bits from other D4 tractors to do repairs over the years, in theory you need seal # 6H3580 which is about $12.

Regards
Mike
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Fri, May 1, 2015 3:34 AM
wibbdog
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
I'll suggest it will be the seal on the cross shaft next to the steering clutch thrust bearing, there is a seal on both sides of the crown/bevel wheel housing, or "Doghouse" as someone described it to me the other day which hold the oil in the gearbox, you will need to remove the tranny top, complete cross shaft and steering clutch to gain access to them which is a bit of a job as the clutch packs need to be pressed back on the cross shaft, though the parts will be fairly inexpensive.

My D4 7U Parts Number book is for later tractors, there were over 44,000 7U tractors built, my book is for D4 7U27570 up and it shows 2 different cross shaft part numbers, plus steering clutch thrust bearings, bearing cage and seal numbers so be aware of this before buying parts, double check your numbers as you take them out because someone might have used oddball bits from other D4 tractors to do repairs over the years, in theory you need seal # 6H3580 which is about $12.

Regards
Mike
Thanks Mike. The clutch packs, any thing special needed for the clutches?
D4 7U 36840
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Fri, May 1, 2015 6:11 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to wibbdog:
Thanks Mike. The clutch packs, any thing special needed for the clutches?
Sorry, I've been away from my computer a week, you will need a puller to get the clutch packs off the cross shaft, I made a basic "H" beam type puller with a hydraulic jack which worked OK, there are 2 bolt holes in the packs for fitting your pulling bolts, make sure you leave the large nut on the shaft but loosened as you remove the packs just to keep it safe because if they are tight they come off with a good pop, I made a basic spring compressor for getting the springs out of the clutch packs because I needed to split my clutches as they were rusted solid, you will not need to do that, but you will need a large press to get your clutch packs pressed back on to the shaft, from memory they need around 12 tons pressure, I took mine to a local Engineering shop to do that only to find their 60 ton press had a busted gauge!

When it comes time to put it back together you will need to set the back lash on the pinion and bevel gear and if you are not a Mechanic then that is the time to get the help from someone who is, it is not rocket science, but for a first time it is best to be shown how. My guess is the job will take about 2 days and if all your bearings are OK then the cost will be less than $150, you will not need to remove the tracks.
Regards
Mike
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Thu, May 7, 2015 5:24 AM
wibbdog
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
Sorry, I've been away from my computer a week, you will need a puller to get the clutch packs off the cross shaft, I made a basic "H" beam type puller with a hydraulic jack which worked OK, there are 2 bolt holes in the packs for fitting your pulling bolts, make sure you leave the large nut on the shaft but loosened as you remove the packs just to keep it safe because if they are tight they come off with a good pop, I made a basic spring compressor for getting the springs out of the clutch packs because I needed to split my clutches as they were rusted solid, you will not need to do that, but you will need a large press to get your clutch packs pressed back on to the shaft, from memory they need around 12 tons pressure, I took mine to a local Engineering shop to do that only to find their 60 ton press had a busted gauge!

When it comes time to put it back together you will need to set the back lash on the pinion and bevel gear and if you are not a Mechanic then that is the time to get the help from someone who is, it is not rocket science, but for a first time it is best to be shown how. My guess is the job will take about 2 days and if all your bearings are OK then the cost will be less than $150, you will not need to remove the tracks.
Regards
Mike
thanks for getting back to me Mike. I have done a lot to this unit and use it a lot as well. I will be adding fluid for a while. I have a few more things I have to do with it yet. again thank you for the information!
D4 7U 36840
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Thu, May 7, 2015 11:01 PM
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