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Fuel transfer pump D47U36219

Fuel transfer pump D47U36219

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Elton
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My transfer pump pressure is low and the pump is leaking a small amount.  I have watched Squatch's video and plan to remove the pump tonight and start the process.  Do you all have any suggestions?  Obviously cut off the fuel at the tank, is that a 90 degree ball valve?  What is the best way to drain off the fuel, just take the pump off and let it fly or drain the tower (?) that holds the filters first?  Thanks to all for your input.  
Elton
 
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Tue, Jun 29, 2021 10:37 PM
Bruce P
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Hello Elton, the fuel shutoff is a 90 valve, but unlike a standard ball valve you can go past the shut off point. Look for a line stamped on the end of the valve stem, it indicates the position of the valve.  It should be parallel with the fittings when "on" and perpendicular when the valve is off.  

I would drain the fuel filter tower first before removing the pump, you'll probably want to change the filters anyway.  Make sure you get the bolts up next to the Diesel engine block, they can be pretty covered up. 

Good luck.  

BP. 
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Wed, Jun 30, 2021 4:13 AM
Elton
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Reply to Bruce P:
Hello Elton, the fuel shutoff is a 90 valve, but unlike a standard ball valve you can go past the shut off point. Look for a line stamped on the end of the valve stem, it indicates the position of the valve.  It should be parallel with the fittings when "on" and perpendicular when the valve is off.  

I would drain the fuel filter tower first before removing the pump, you'll probably want to change the filters anyway.  Make sure you get the bolts up next to the Diesel engine block, they can be pretty covered up. 

Good luck.  

BP. 
Thanks Bruce! I had trouble finding the two "hidden" ones next to the diesel block and I can assure you and anyone else that the pump will not move until they come out! Thanks for your kind advice. Elton
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Wed, Jun 30, 2021 8:32 PM
willwingo
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Attached below is a picture of the valve in a cleaned up state. On a 7U it will be nearly impossible to see that scribed line under the seat tank and covered with years of crap.

The best tool for opening/ closing that I have found is a 7/16" 8 point socket on a stubby ratchet. Give the valve a quarter turn an see if the fuel stops. It may turn very hard.

  [attachment=63850]001.JPG[/attachment]
Attachment
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Thu, Jul 1, 2021 2:31 AM
neil
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Reply to willwingo:
Attached below is a picture of the valve in a cleaned up state. On a 7U it will be nearly impossible to see that scribed line under the seat tank and covered with years of crap.

The best tool for opening/ closing that I have found is a 7/16" 8 point socket on a stubby ratchet. Give the valve a quarter turn an see if the fuel stops. It may turn very hard.

  [attachment=63850]001.JPG[/attachment]
Attachment
With mine, I carry a large adjustable wrench and I loosen the gland nut a tad, turn the valve, and then tweak the gland nut up a bit. I had to lap the valve but the amount of pressure to stop the gland leaking out of the valve (to the open air, not down the fuel line) also makes the valve difficult to turn. I suspect what I need is a better gland packing material so it doesn't have to be as tight. I used a black marker pen to make the line on the valve easier to see. A white paint pen would also work.
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Thu, Jul 1, 2021 3:45 AM
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