First thought would be a single stick 3" schedule 80 pipe. (you may want 4" for peace of mind.) Build an attachment point to your “helper D2 and with two front guy lines (hopefully you have a blade so they can be spread more,) you are set. With it being attached to the D2, you can just pin it on the next time you have a lifting event. With a single tube boom, life is much easier. You could even put a mounting plate on it and attach a 12,000 pound winch.....
i built a set of gin poles that slide in to the receiver hitch on the back of my pickup, then the guy wires are chains that attach to the fifthe wheel rails in the bed. i can adjust the reach of the gin poles by extending the length of the chains used as guy wires. then i have a 2 ton chain fall that is pinned to the top of the gin poles that i use as a hoist.
you could do the same with a single pole. 2 inch sched 80 should be plenty strong enough, two guy wires to keep it from flopping around. the wider the triangle created the more stability it would have.
i also welded a square tube on the bottom of my 200 dollar hydraulic engine hoist, removed the fold down legs, and then tied the top of the hoist back to the fifth wheel rails. then i had a hydraulic lift for lifting the tranny out of my 5r d6.
Here are some old photo's of both systems in use.
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4 by 6's wedged against the track pads and earth should work.
We made our A-frame gantry out of of concentric sizes of used oil field pipe with an H-beam for 2 chain hoist trolleys...Chained up the engine front and back to the chain hoists, and pulled the engine clear and level off the front of the machine...After doing clutch and flywheel work, rolled the engine back in place perfectly...Since then, we went on to modify our design to a double A-frame gantry to straddle the grader, with longer legs to clear the grader cab, and the H-beam with 2 trolley cars and chain hoists, to pull the engine on our CAT 212 grader...worked just fine...The gantry is still in place to work on something else...one of these days...
Respy, CarlsCat...
The last I took an engine out of a D2 to change the clutch in the field. I jacked it up to remove the equalizer spring, blocked the engine level, unbolted everything necessary, and towed the back end away with another tractor, then had the owner and his son push it back together with a couple of crowbars. About four hours work max and much safer than lifting with a home made, untested lifting device.
This is the way I did my 22 once. Worked OK, and it was relatively easy to set up.
Hi I see you have what we call an engine hoist I lifted my motor out with one of those no trouble at all took the head off pony motor off and the radiator as well spring out of course took the weight and rolled it out will go back in the same way had a concrete floor to work on it is heavy but at least you can move it around Cheers
The last I took an engine out of a D2 to change the clutch in the field. I jacked it up to remove the equalizer spring, blocked the engine level, unbolted everything necessary, and towed the back end away with another tractor, then had the owner and his son push it back together with a couple of crowbars. About four hours work max and much safer than lifting with a home made, untested lifting device.