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Framework to pull D2 engine

Framework to pull D2 engine

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Jim Davis
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I'm looking for some "that looks about right--TLAR" engineering to make an "A" frame to pull a D2 engine.

I plan to back helper D2 in front of the patient and put the base ends of the A-frame legs on the ground against the back of the helper tracks, lean the A-frame over the patient and guy it there with chain to the helper machine.

I know this can work, but how big should the timbers of the A-frame be? I'm thinking 4x4 is too small, and pressure treated stuff is too full of knots. Should I be looking at 6x6 Douglas fir or yellow pine, or do I need to go with oak?
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Tue, Aug 29, 2017 9:38 PM
jumbo
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First thought would be a single stick 3" schedule 80 pipe. (you may want 4" for peace of mind.) Build an attachment point to your “helper D2 and with two front guy lines (hopefully you have a blade so they can be spread more,) you are set. With it being attached to the D2, you can just pin it on the next time you have a lifting event. With a single tube boom, life is much easier. You could even put a mounting plate on it and attach a 12,000 pound winch.....
I'm not afraid of hard work; I can lay down beside it anytime and take a nap.
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Tue, Aug 29, 2017 10:19 PM
Jim Davis
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Reply to jumbo:
First thought would be a single stick 3" schedule 80 pipe. (you may want 4" for peace of mind.) Build an attachment point to your “helper D2 and with two front guy lines (hopefully you have a blade so they can be spread more,) you are set. With it being attached to the D2, you can just pin it on the next time you have a lifting event. With a single tube boom, life is much easier. You could even put a mounting plate on it and attach a 12,000 pound winch.....
Sounds like a good plan. There is no drawbar on the helper D2, though, so some fabrication would be necessary. I'll think on it.


Jim
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Wed, Aug 30, 2017 12:01 AM
rmyram
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i built a set of gin poles that slide in to the receiver hitch on the back of my pickup, then the guy wires are chains that attach to the fifthe wheel rails in the bed. i can adjust the reach of the gin poles by extending the length of the chains used as guy wires. then i have a 2 ton chain fall that is pinned to the top of the gin poles that i use as a hoist.

you could do the same with a single pole. 2 inch sched 80 should be plenty strong enough, two guy wires to keep it from flopping around. the wider the triangle created the more stability it would have.

i also welded a square tube on the bottom of my 200 dollar hydraulic engine hoist, removed the fold down legs, and then tied the top of the hoist back to the fifth wheel rails. then i had a hydraulic lift for lifting the tranny out of my 5r d6.

Here are some old photo's of both systems in use.

[attachment=44404]forklift 009.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44405]forklift 008.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44406]forklift 007.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44407]forklift 006.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44408]forklift 005.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44409]forklift 004.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44410]forklift 003.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44411]forklift 002.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44412]forklift 001.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44413]010.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44414]006.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44415]005.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44416]Lanscaping!! 013.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44417]Lanscaping!! 012.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44418]Lanscaping!! 021.jpg[/attachment]
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Wed, Aug 30, 2017 12:23 AM
drujinin
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Reply to rmyram:
i built a set of gin poles that slide in to the receiver hitch on the back of my pickup, then the guy wires are chains that attach to the fifthe wheel rails in the bed. i can adjust the reach of the gin poles by extending the length of the chains used as guy wires. then i have a 2 ton chain fall that is pinned to the top of the gin poles that i use as a hoist.

you could do the same with a single pole. 2 inch sched 80 should be plenty strong enough, two guy wires to keep it from flopping around. the wider the triangle created the more stability it would have.

i also welded a square tube on the bottom of my 200 dollar hydraulic engine hoist, removed the fold down legs, and then tied the top of the hoist back to the fifth wheel rails. then i had a hydraulic lift for lifting the tranny out of my 5r d6.

Here are some old photo's of both systems in use.

[attachment=44404]forklift 009.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44405]forklift 008.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44406]forklift 007.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44407]forklift 006.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44408]forklift 005.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44409]forklift 004.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44410]forklift 003.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44411]forklift 002.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44412]forklift 001.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44413]010.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44414]006.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44415]005.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44416]Lanscaping!! 013.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44417]Lanscaping!! 012.jpg[/attachment][attachment=44418]Lanscaping!! 021.jpg[/attachment]
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4 by 6's wedged against the track pads and earth should work.
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Wed, Aug 30, 2017 6:18 PM
CarlsCAT
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Reply to drujinin:
4 by 6's wedged against the track pads and earth should work.
We made our A-frame gantry out of of concentric sizes of used oil field pipe with an H-beam for 2 chain hoist trolleys...Chained up the engine front and back to the chain hoists, and pulled the engine clear and level off the front of the machine...After doing clutch and flywheel work, rolled the engine back in place perfectly...Since then, we went on to modify our design to a double A-frame gantry to straddle the grader, with longer legs to clear the grader cab, and the H-beam with 2 trolley cars and chain hoists, to pull the engine on our CAT 212 grader...worked just fine...The gantry is still in place to work on something else...one of these days...
Respy, CarlsCat...
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Tue, Sep 19, 2017 4:11 AM
catsilver
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Reply to CarlsCAT:
We made our A-frame gantry out of of concentric sizes of used oil field pipe with an H-beam for 2 chain hoist trolleys...Chained up the engine front and back to the chain hoists, and pulled the engine clear and level off the front of the machine...After doing clutch and flywheel work, rolled the engine back in place perfectly...Since then, we went on to modify our design to a double A-frame gantry to straddle the grader, with longer legs to clear the grader cab, and the H-beam with 2 trolley cars and chain hoists, to pull the engine on our CAT 212 grader...worked just fine...The gantry is still in place to work on something else...one of these days...
Respy, CarlsCat...
The last I took an engine out of a D2 to change the clutch in the field. I jacked it up to remove the equalizer spring, blocked the engine level, unbolted everything necessary, and towed the back end away with another tractor, then had the owner and his son push it back together with a couple of crowbars. About four hours work max and much safer than lifting with a home made, untested lifting device.
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Tue, Sep 19, 2017 4:31 AM
Dan Pratt
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Reply to catsilver:
The last I took an engine out of a D2 to change the clutch in the field. I jacked it up to remove the equalizer spring, blocked the engine level, unbolted everything necessary, and towed the back end away with another tractor, then had the owner and his son push it back together with a couple of crowbars. About four hours work max and much safer than lifting with a home made, untested lifting device.


This is the way I did my 22 once. Worked OK, and it was relatively easy to set up.
Dan22 - 1936 22 Narrow, 1937 22 Wide, D2 5J, D4D
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Tue, Sep 19, 2017 5:22 AM
D2MOVA
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Reply to Dan Pratt:


This is the way I did my 22 once. Worked OK, and it was relatively easy to set up.
Hi I see you have what we call an engine hoist I lifted my motor out with one of those no trouble at all took the head off pony motor off and the radiator as well spring out of course took the weight and rolled it out will go back in the same way had a concrete floor to work on it is heavy but at least you can move it around Cheers
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Tue, Sep 19, 2017 6:37 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to D2MOVA:
Hi I see you have what we call an engine hoist I lifted my motor out with one of those no trouble at all took the head off pony motor off and the radiator as well spring out of course took the weight and rolled it out will go back in the same way had a concrete floor to work on it is heavy but at least you can move it around Cheers
Hi, Jim Davis.
If you want to build a movable/mobile lifting frame, you could remove the drawbar from the 'patient' D2 - assuming that it does at least have one - and put it on the 'helper' D2 as a base for a set of sheer legs. This photo may give you an idea or two for bracing the top of such sheer legs, and maybe even the drawbar frame as well..

[attachment=44751]Cat D2 with Holt hyd angle dozer and tree pusher_1_HEF.jpg[/attachment]

Just my 0.02.
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Tue, Sep 19, 2017 8:01 AM
Ozlander
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Reply to catsilver:
The last I took an engine out of a D2 to change the clutch in the field. I jacked it up to remove the equalizer spring, blocked the engine level, unbolted everything necessary, and towed the back end away with another tractor, then had the owner and his son push it back together with a couple of crowbars. About four hours work max and much safer than lifting with a home made, untested lifting device.


It is a tested lifting device now. :juggle:
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Tue, Sep 19, 2017 10:36 AM
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