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Fender mounted toolbox - hasp pic needed

Fender mounted toolbox - hasp pic needed

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Old_n_slo
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Well, my bent up by me, toolbox is darn near factory perfect now thanks to some heavy handed work with a press, hammers and homemade dollies.

It always was missing the hasp portion, so I am looking to fab that piece up. Can someone post some pics of their hasp/hinge so my handiwork can look something close to factory?

Additionally, is the proper placement for a seat mounted fuel tank D2, to have the toolbox on the left side? I was missing the rear sections of my fenders, and have fresh metal to drill into, but I just want to drill once 👍

I'll further make the guess that the toolbox is placed even with the front of the armrest metal and somewhat centered on the fender.

Thanks!
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 12:47 AM
4D2Ken
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Here is how my D25U toolbox is mounted, and I believe it is factory. There are two hinges for the top.
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 1:41 AM
Old_n_slo
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Reply to 4D2Ken:
Here is how my D25U toolbox is mounted, and I believe it is factory. There are two hinges for the top.
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Thanks Ken, that'l give me a start. I still have the hinges, so it just looks like a beefy rectangular hasp.

Ahhh..but I spotted some 'electrification on your machine that mine does not have 😆 , thus your box is mounted forward of the "arm support" and forward of the rear lamp. I would think that a pony start would call for it to be mounted a bit more rearward for all around ease.

I've pretty much ruled out the right side mount. My google image search results all have something wacky with those boxes mounted on the right side. I would think from an "ease of use" standpoint, the operator spends most of his time on the left side of the machine, and thus a left mount.
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 2:58 AM
edb
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Reply to Old_n_slo:
Thanks Ken, that'l give me a start. I still have the hinges, so it just looks like a beefy rectangular hasp.

Ahhh..but I spotted some 'electrification on your machine that mine does not have 😆 , thus your box is mounted forward of the "arm support" and forward of the rear lamp. I would think that a pony start would call for it to be mounted a bit more rearward for all around ease.

I've pretty much ruled out the right side mount. My google image search results all have something wacky with those boxes mounted on the right side. I would think from an "ease of use" standpoint, the operator spends most of his time on the left side of the machine, and thus a left mount.
Hi Team,
Sales Sheets I have for both the U and J series show pix of the toolbox on either the right or left hand sides in the same for/aft position as Kens pix.
Ken has a hyd control on his right fender so I guess it was swapped or fitted to suit.
I believe the box needs to be sited for/aft as per Kens so it clears the rear lamp bracket and any attachment controls.
It would appear that the choice governed by convenience of attachments/personal choice that the box can be fitted either side and be correct. The majority of pix show the box on the left side. I see this side as being convenient to access the starting rope for the pony seeing as the left side has the pony controls etc..
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 6:51 AM
Painter
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
Sales Sheets I have for both the U and J series show pix of the toolbox on either the right or left hand sides in the same for/aft position as Kens pix.
Ken has a hyd control on his right fender so I guess it was swapped or fitted to suit.
I believe the box needs to be sited for/aft as per Kens so it clears the rear lamp bracket and any attachment controls.
It would appear that the choice governed by convenience of attachments/personal choice that the box can be fitted either side and be correct. The majority of pix show the box on the left side. I see this side as being convenient to access the starting rope for the pony seeing as the left side has the pony controls etc..
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Here it is on one I had without battery box

[attachment=14389]008.JPG[/attachment]
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Hi, My name is Dennis, and I am a Rust-a-holic!

D4 7U17091 D6 8U10305 1926 Cat 30 1955 Ford T800, 74 Ford LT9000 1936 K Allis
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 7:54 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Painter:
Here it is on one I had without battery box

[attachment=14389]008.JPG[/attachment]
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Check your parts manual for the s/n you have....it will show the correct box and position for rope or pony start.
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 8:31 AM
Old_n_slo
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Check your parts manual for the s/n you have....it will show the correct box and position for rope or pony start.
@ Eddie, thanks! I'm heading down the road of left side, aligned with the arm rest.

@ Painter, appreciated the pic. If you still have the machine, do I spot an extra fender support bracket on that left side (rearward?) Perhaps added on?

@ Old Magnet, thanks. My book (page 37 of the parts catalog) references only the box and fastener part numbers. No mention of location. If you could post the verbiage you see in your book, it would be appreciated (rope start, no 'lectrics, 3J 51XX). Your posted info was helpful in confirming the hinges were spot welded on, which I can confirm. Mine are currently bolted through what I can now say are light duty, countersunk screw, brass constructed, hinges. I've got some work ahead of me now. The hardware store does not have anything I really like right now to start with.

I'm guessing those box mounting spacers are...oh..perhaps...1/4'' high?
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 10:14 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old_n_slo:
@ Eddie, thanks! I'm heading down the road of left side, aligned with the arm rest.

@ Painter, appreciated the pic. If you still have the machine, do I spot an extra fender support bracket on that left side (rearward?) Perhaps added on?

@ Old Magnet, thanks. My book (page 37 of the parts catalog) references only the box and fastener part numbers. No mention of location. If you could post the verbiage you see in your book, it would be appreciated (rope start, no 'lectrics, 3J 51XX). Your posted info was helpful in confirming the hinges were spot welded on, which I can confirm. Mine are currently bolted through what I can now say are light duty, countersunk screw, brass constructed, hinges. I've got some work ahead of me now. The hardware store does not have anything I really like right now to start with.

I'm guessing those box mounting spacers are...oh..perhaps...1/4'' high?
I was referring to the later D2 5U13237-up, don't have the 3J manual.
I can post that if you wish.

Seem to recall the spacers being a little taller...maybe 1/2"??? I'd have to go check.
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 10:49 AM
Old_n_slo
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I was referring to the later D2 5U13237-up, don't have the 3J manual.
I can post that if you wish.

Seem to recall the spacers being a little taller...maybe 1/2"??? I'd have to go check.
[quote="Old Magnet"]I can post that if you wish.....

Seem to recall the spacers being a little taller...maybe 1/2"??? I'd have to go check.[/quote]

Please.....and thanks!!
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 10:05 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old_n_slo:
[quote="Old Magnet"]I can post that if you wish.....

Seem to recall the spacers being a little taller...maybe 1/2"??? I'd have to go check.[/quote]

Please.....and thanks!!
Here it is.....
This is for the longer frame/fender models......
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 11:39 PM
Sasquatch
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Here it is.....
This is for the longer frame/fender models......
I used the factory holes on my fender to mount the toolbox and took a few measurements.


The rear of the toolbox is 8 1/4" from the rear edge of the fender.
It is set in 3/8" from the outside edge of the fender.
There is a 2" gap between the inside wall of the toolbox (measured from the wall of the box, not the edge of the lid) and the side of the seat tank.

[img]http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy310/TRNelson/Cat%20D2/004-1.jpg[/img]



The spacers under the box are 1/2" thick and have a 1 1/4" outside diameter. From memory they have an approx. 7/16" through hole. The mounting bolts that go through them are 3/8" bolts.

[img]http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy310/TRNelson/Cat%20D2/003.jpg[/img]



A couple more hasp pictures, simple pin for the hasp to pivot on, peened at each end.

[img]http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy310/TRNelson/Cat%20D2/005.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy310/TRNelson/Cat%20D2/006.jpg[/img]
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Sat, Sep 1, 2012 11:57 PM
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