engine stand ideas need

Mog,

when i was at the dealer we had OTC stands that were designed like you are suggesting, the main difference was that we didn't hang them from the flywheel housing, they were attached to the side of the block. With your skills you could whip one up in no time, find your local Cat or JD equipment dealer and ask them if you can look at their stands to use a design reference.

here is a link to the one we had

http://www.otctools.com/products/6000-lb-revolver-diesel-engine-stand

For some reason the link won't transfer into the post, copy the above link and paste into your browser address bar and it should open up.

I clicked on the link and it opened just fine.

Much easier to build a four legged stand, castors or not unless you insist on the rotation feature.

I clicked on the link and it opened just fine.

Much easier to build a four legged stand, castors or not unless you insist on the rotation feature.

I have done a few out of frames with taking the crank out. I made a C shape rear bottom frame with 2 uprights to go on the bellhousing or whatever. Mt front mount was the width of the C so different length engines could use the same back C base. Just held in place with a couple clamps or tacks. Working on the bottom side or installing piston assemblies if the block is out I prefer to lay it on some blocking sideways and work it from that angle. Pistons/rods/mains are much easier to install and torque up in a chair or on your feet instead of on your back. Cranks i set the block on top of and use a couple ratchet straps through the cylinders to pull the crank up. But hey to each his own...

I don't have any real experience with either engine but my guess is that with the head removed you'd probably be fine on a standard engine stand. I would probably set it on the ground upright on the oil pan and/or a stand and pull the flywheel, head, accessories, etc, then put the short block on a regular stand for disassembly. I'd guess once it's stripped to that point it's 5-600 lb, which is within the rated capacity for most common stands I've seen. Probably want to be careful if you're hammering or torquing on it too hard, but shouldn't be hard to put blocks or something under it for added support if you need it on a specific operation. Do the opposite for reassembly, build the short block on the stand then set it down on the ground for the rest. Also makes it easier to get to the top of the engine.

I have also just tipped the engine up on the flywheel end so it's vertical and done work on the short block that way. Takes a bit of care with the crank and cam, but isn't that hard.

For a longer/larger engine I would consider taking 2 engine regular engine stands and putting one on the front and one on the rear of the block - would have to modify them so the pivot is horizontal instead of the common tilt back, and would need to make sure both were aligned when you bolted them up, but this would be an easy way to get support and be able to rotate the block, though you could have issues getting to the front of the block and r&r of the cam depending on how the stand is setup. Would also have to be careful that it doesn't tip.

For me just doing a couple of engines wouldn't really be worth building a custom stand, easier to work around it.

Depends too on the person doing the work - I'm a younger guy, so working at odd angles and muscling around stuff it's that much of a problem, for someone who's older, has health issues, etc it might be much more worthwhile to have a good gear drive stand.

I don't have any real experience with either engine but my guess is that with the head removed you'd probably be fine on a standard engine stand. I would probably set it on the ground upright on the oil pan and/or a stand and pull the flywheel, head, accessories, etc, then put the short block on a regular stand for disassembly. I'd guess once it's stripped to that point it's 5-600 lb, which is within the rated capacity for most common stands I've seen. Probably want to be careful if you're hammering or torquing on it too hard, but shouldn't be hard to put blocks or something under it for added support if you need it on a specific operation. Do the opposite for reassembly, build the short block on the stand then set it down on the ground for the rest. Also makes it easier to get to the top of the engine.

I have also just tipped the engine up on the flywheel end so it's vertical and done work on the short block that way. Takes a bit of care with the crank and cam, but isn't that hard.

For a longer/larger engine I would consider taking 2 engine regular engine stands and putting one on the front and one on the rear of the block - would have to modify them so the pivot is horizontal instead of the common tilt back, and would need to make sure both were aligned when you bolted them up, but this would be an easy way to get support and be able to rotate the block, though you could have issues getting to the front of the block and r&r of the cam depending on how the stand is setup. Would also have to be careful that it doesn't tip.

For me just doing a couple of engines wouldn't really be worth building a custom stand, easier to work around it.

Depends too on the person doing the work - I'm a younger guy, so working at odd angles and muscling around stuff it's that much of a problem, for someone who's older, has health issues, etc it might be much more worthwhile to have a good gear drive stand.

i have personally watched the 6 cylinder gas engine from a 1959 international school bus hit the floor as the mechanic was trying to rotate it on the common engine stands that are designed for small block v-8's and that are found in most home shops. it also landed on the guys leg and cause some damage as well, severe bruising, some deep cuts, very lucky his leg wasn't broken.

when i was at the dealer we had some "homemade" engine stands that we also used. they did not have a rotator, but you could rotate the engine to four different positions by hand. it was a square frame with castors that had two vertical poles, on on each side. the poles had a piece of pipe welded perpendicular across the top that served as the roatation joint, and a 5/8 pin served as the holder to keep the engine in the desired position, Actually, as i think back on it, i'm pretty sure they used the round piece of metal that you weld to the tounge of a trailer hitch to rotate your swivel jack on as the rotation joint on each side of the stand. Then we had pipes that fit inside that with a plates and littel arms that you could adjust to bolt the engine to.

the engine was held by both sides of the block and the system worked falry well for the overhaul of the engine, but severly limited the ability to install the injection pump or perform a test run of the engine whilst on the stand.

the OTC rotator stand was expensive, but we could perform a test run of the engine withou having to reposition the engine from the stand to a bench or other apparatus.

many engines have ben rebuilt by laying them on their side and blocking apropriately, or standing on the flywheel housing and blocking appropriately. Use what you have at hand, respect the weight of the engine and ensure that it doens't have the ability to fall and land on you or any of your helpers. Safety should be our priority.