Elecric Starter

Hi Joe,
Never heard of a 45MT starter. Assume you mean 40MT or 42MT.
I run two Interstate C27XHD batteries that are 845 amp. and 675 cold cranking amps. and consider that to be minimum for our mild climate. If you can get to the 900 amp. plus CCA, that's even better.

What's the story on the starter, is it a used or rebuilt unit. Could be dragging as it should spin up a good 3,000+ rpm.

Are you running a 12v starter with the batteries in parallel or 24v in series and is it wired correctly?

I"m wondering about the use of the deep cycle batteries in that application. They are designed for a steady fairly low discharge and not a heavy quick discharge like would be required for a starter. Another place to check would be for loose/bad connections somewhere in the battery cables.

Also OM nailed it with what the starter requires for juice. .12 or 24 volts.

Its a rebuilt 12 volt 42mt starter,the batterys are hooked in paralley.The batterys dont say how many cranking amps they
have.I used jumper cables to the starter.
Thanks Joe

Hello OM
Its a new conversion.On the selinode do you mean removing the selinoid from the starter.Are there any holes where you can observe what the starter is doing.Will use regular cables from the batterys to the starter.I bought the starter from a Kenworth dealer in Boise for $190.00 which I thought was agood deal.Thanks for all your help OM.
Joe

You just want to remove the outer housing of the solenoid....undo the three screws at the front and the power connection at the back...there is a fairly stiff spring in there. With the outer housing off you can work the solenoid plunger by hand to check fit and engagement of the drive.
Basically you are doing what the solenoid would do only manually.

I wouldn't take aything apart until I put real cables on as most "Store Bought" jumper cables are 10ga wire unless you buy good commercial jumper cables. When you read the directions for jumping, it states, "attach cables and wait for the donor battery to charge the dead battery before cranking".
I agree on the deep cycle statement about the batteries, they are not designed to give heavy discharge (high amperage) for starting. Buy truck/commercial batteries also as less expensive automotive batteries will not handle the vibration/bouncing of the machine.
Don't cheap out on the cables by making your own. Buy them with the battery clamps already on them as this is the first spot where corrosion will degrade them. On a 24 volt system 2 gauge would be the minimum recommended, 1 gauge would be better. On a 12 volt system 1 gauge would be the minimum recommended, 0 gauge would be better.

I put regular cables on the starter & the starter now tuns over fast.But doesnt engage the flywheel,I put in some shims because I thought maybe it was binding up in the on the flywheel.Will take them out & see what happens.
Thanks Joe