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Early D2 master pin plug removal tools

Early D2 master pin plug removal tools

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Sargosailor
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I just received from Cat pn's 2B2108 Sleeve, 3B1027 Screw and 3B1028 Nut.
These tools are listed in the D2 Servicemen's reference book as required to pull the tapered plugs in the master pins. However, the screw and nut are 1/2" NF. The plugs are tapped 5/16" NF. So far no one at the Cat dealer can explain what happened. Anyone on this board run into this? How did you pull the plugs?
Jim
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Wed, Jun 13, 2007 5:06 AM
Steve A
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I used a 7/16 NF grade 8 bolt and a 1/2 inch socket that would fit over the pin, add washers as needed to keep from bottoming out but be sure to mantain enough of a bite to avoid stripping the threads on the bolt. I sugest start with 4 threads engaged, run a tap through the plug to begin with, blow out with compressed air then lube the threads with oil or grease. Good Luck
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Wed, Jun 13, 2007 7:30 AM
Old Magnet
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I see what you mean in the D2 Servicemen's Reference Book. Cat screws up again🙄 🙄 Those are the parts required for the D4/D6 with 1/2 in. NF threads.
The parts you need for the D2 are 7B2708 screw, 7B2709 sleeve and 7B2710 nut.
Check your threads again....I believe these are 3/8 NF. I don't think you could pull anything with 5/16.
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Wed, Jun 13, 2007 7:37 AM
bcwayne
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I see what you mean in the D2 Servicemen's Reference Book. Cat screws up again🙄 🙄 Those are the parts required for the D4/D6 with 1/2 in. NF threads.
The parts you need for the D2 are 7B2708 screw, 7B2709 sleeve and 7B2710 nut.
Check your threads again....I believe these are 3/8 NF. I don't think you could pull anything with 5/16.
Old Magnet is right... they are 3/8" fine threads on the D-2. I also bought the Cat tool to do the job, and proceeded to break it...Cat would not replace it. I have had much better luck using a slide hammer to remove the plugs. Good luck.
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Wed, Jun 13, 2007 8:53 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to bcwayne:
Old Magnet is right... they are 3/8" fine threads on the D-2. I also bought the Cat tool to do the job, and proceeded to break it...Cat would not replace it. I have had much better luck using a slide hammer to remove the plugs. Good luck.
Thanks bcwayne, I thought it was 3/8 but I'm a little rusty on the D2's.
For the 4's and 6's I use a combo for the tough ones. It's a long (5 in. I think) continuous threaded grade 8 bolt that I preload with socket and nut/washer with the bolt head captured in a 3000# drilled pipe cap connected to a 3/4 in schedule 80 pipe with at least a 10lb slide hammer weight. (sometimes use an old cluster gear that's probably about 20-25lbs). I tighten the nut as tight as I dare (with full thread purchase) then give it a whack with the slide hammer, also a little heat if I think it needs it. Haven't had one yet that couldn't be persuaded.
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Wed, Jun 13, 2007 9:24 AM
Sargosailor
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Thanks bcwayne, I thought it was 3/8 but I'm a little rusty on the D2's.
For the 4's and 6's I use a combo for the tough ones. It's a long (5 in. I think) continuous threaded grade 8 bolt that I preload with socket and nut/washer with the bolt head captured in a 3000# drilled pipe cap connected to a 3/4 in schedule 80 pipe with at least a 10lb slide hammer weight. (sometimes use an old cluster gear that's probably about 20-25lbs). I tighten the nut as tight as I dare (with full thread purchase) then give it a whack with the slide hammer, also a little heat if I think it needs it. Haven't had one yet that couldn't be persuaded.
BC & OM,
Thanks again for the help and suggestions. I did run a tap into the treads a couple of weeks ago but I can't remember sh*t any more 😕 . I'll do it again today. I also had thought of using a slide hammer but where do I find grade 8 hardware? Is that the toughest available? I suppose Snap-on may have a hammer, they have a large facility here in Conway, AR.
Best regards,
Jim
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Wed, Jun 13, 2007 6:27 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Sargosailor:
BC & OM,
Thanks again for the help and suggestions. I did run a tap into the treads a couple of weeks ago but I can't remember sh*t any more 😕 . I'll do it again today. I also had thought of using a slide hammer but where do I find grade 8 hardware? Is that the toughest available? I suppose Snap-on may have a hammer, they have a large facility here in Conway, AR.
Best regards,
Jim
I buy most of my hardware on line from www.mcmaster.com. Going to town for anything in my area is a waste of time. Grade 8 is the toughest commercially available hardware but there are specialty items for grade 9 or better. Decent slide hammers are kind of pricey and they are not that difficult to make.
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Wed, Jun 13, 2007 10:25 PM
ETD66SS
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I buy most of my hardware on line from www.mcmaster.com. Going to town for anything in my area is a waste of time. Grade 8 is the toughest commercially available hardware but there are specialty items for grade 9 or better. Decent slide hammers are kind of pricey and they are not that difficult to make.



McMaster Carr is great...

Being a Mechanical Engineer, every company I've worked for has used this place.

I use it personally as well. I can order whatever I want before noon, and have it the next day...

The only thing McM-Carr is not good for it hand tools, usually the prices are way overboard...
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Wed, Jun 13, 2007 11:38 PM
SJ
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I buy most of my hardware on line from www.mcmaster.com. Going to town for anything in my area is a waste of time. Grade 8 is the toughest commercially available hardware but there are specialty items for grade 9 or better. Decent slide hammers are kind of pricey and they are not that difficult to make.
Cat bolts std. & SAE are all grade 8 bolts so just figure out the length you need & I can give you the part number or just go to your dealer. They are listed by sizes in their Safe Source book and grade.Don,t just go to your local hardware store for them.
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Wed, Jun 13, 2007 11:41 PM
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