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Drilling the bellhousing of a D4

Drilling the bellhousing of a D4

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mikedell
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Would like to hear some feedback from you guys who have successfully converted to direct electric start, I have all the parts I need now thanks to Old Magnet answering all my questions.
I purchased a bimetal hole saw from Fastenal and some heavy duty cutting oil, Im using a 1/2 electric drill and I am getting nowhere. I drilled for almost 2hrs and I haven't event gotten 1/4 through the bellhousing. I know it takes time but it just seems like I should have been making a lot more progress by now. Anyone have a suggestion on a different type of hole saw?
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Fri, May 9, 2014 9:35 AM
bcwayne
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I did a conversion on a D2 using a carbide tipped hole saw... drilling was easier than I expected... hole saw still looks good enough to do several more. I think I bought the hole saw from McMaster Carr.
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Fri, May 9, 2014 10:08 AM
mog5858
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Reply to bcwayne:
I did a conversion on a D2 using a carbide tipped hole saw... drilling was easier than I expected... hole saw still looks good enough to do several more. I think I bought the hole saw from McMaster Carr.
sounds like your hole saw is junk. you have to go as slow as you can 50-150 rpm max i know it hard to go slow but full trigger will get you know where you should be able too feel it cut are you getting any chips ? when i buy hole saw i try and stick with starrett, Milwaukee has a good brand too. you might have work harden it has it change color? if it has you might have to go the carbide way hope this helps
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Fri, May 9, 2014 10:56 AM
mikedell
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Reply to mog5858:
sounds like your hole saw is junk. you have to go as slow as you can 50-150 rpm max i know it hard to go slow but full trigger will get you know where you should be able too feel it cut are you getting any chips ? when i buy hole saw i try and stick with starrett, Milwaukee has a good brand too. you might have work harden it has it change color? if it has you might have to go the carbide way hope this helps
Yeah Ive been running it pretty slow, maybe 80 rpms, would go for 5 minutes, then let the drill cool. Im thinking it might just be my hole saw is junk. Gonna grab a carbide tipped tomorrow and see how it goes from there.
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Fri, May 9, 2014 11:09 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to mikedell:
Yeah Ive been running it pretty slow, maybe 80 rpms, would go for 5 minutes, then let the drill cool. Im thinking it might just be my hole saw is junk. Gonna grab a carbide tipped tomorrow and see how it goes from there.


Be careful when finishing a hole with a new saw as there is less material to restrain the advance of the saw when going through the old part, the set isn't worn yet or different and the new saw will be sharp. It is real easy to over feed and chip the teeth.
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Fri, May 9, 2014 11:53 AM
mrsmackpaul
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Reply to STEPHEN:


Be careful when finishing a hole with a new saw as there is less material to restrain the advance of the saw when going through the old part, the set isn't worn yet or different and the new saw will be sharp. It is real easy to over feed and chip the teeth.
the biggest thing with using a hole saw is you must remember that the teath are only an 1/8th of an inch deep so once the teeth are below the surface you have stop clean the hole all the time like every 30 seconds as there is nowhere for the swarth to go drill a bit then blow it out with compressed air I think you will find it will work much better I have never used carbide tip holesaws just normal steel ones with plenty of oil and keep blowing them out and drill thru steel an inch thick ok good luck

Paul
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Fri, May 9, 2014 3:11 PM
drujinin
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
the biggest thing with using a hole saw is you must remember that the teath are only an 1/8th of an inch deep so once the teeth are below the surface you have stop clean the hole all the time like every 30 seconds as there is nowhere for the swarth to go drill a bit then blow it out with compressed air I think you will find it will work much better I have never used carbide tip holesaws just normal steel ones with plenty of oil and keep blowing them out and drill thru steel an inch thick ok good luck

Paul
Pretty much what Paul says!
I've drilled some good sized holes in thick steel and found that constant cleaning is a necessary chore.
I've used Bi-Metal and Carbides based on availability.
Instead of blowing chips out, I vacuum them as I am usually drilling in a vertical plane. Horizontal like you are going should be no problem. "Heavy Duty" cutting oil(?) could actually have made your project worse as it may not be compatible with the material/cutter.
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Fri, May 9, 2014 5:46 PM
neil
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Reply to drujinin:
Pretty much what Paul says!
I've drilled some good sized holes in thick steel and found that constant cleaning is a necessary chore.
I've used Bi-Metal and Carbides based on availability.
Instead of blowing chips out, I vacuum them as I am usually drilling in a vertical plane. Horizontal like you are going should be no problem. "Heavy Duty" cutting oil(?) could actually have made your project worse as it may not be compatible with the material/cutter.
How much weight should we put on the drill - lean into it, or light?
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Fri, May 9, 2014 6:20 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to neil:
How much weight should we put on the drill - lean into it, or light?
I've done several of those holes and I lean into it, not enough to stall the drill motor but enough to hear it working. If you have access to a 1/2" air drill, you don't have to worry about overheating it like you would with an electric drill.

Carbide hole saws are definitely the way to go!!
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Fri, May 9, 2014 6:50 PM
STEPHEN
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
the biggest thing with using a hole saw is you must remember that the teath are only an 1/8th of an inch deep so once the teeth are below the surface you have stop clean the hole all the time like every 30 seconds as there is nowhere for the swarth to go drill a bit then blow it out with compressed air I think you will find it will work much better I have never used carbide tip holesaws just normal steel ones with plenty of oil and keep blowing them out and drill thru steel an inch thick ok good luck

Paul
[quote="mrsmackpaul"]the biggest thing with using a hole saw is you must remember that the teath are only an 1/8th of an inch deep so once the teeth are below the surface you have stop clean the hole all the time like every 30 seconds as there is nowhere for the swarth to go drill a bit then blow it out with compressed air I think you will find it will work much better I have never used carbide tip holesaws just normal steel ones with plenty of oil and keep blowing them out and drill thru steel an inch thick ok good luck

Paul[/quote]

What you do to help with the chip clearing problem is to let the saw score the circular line, then drill a series of 1/8" or so holes around the circle so some of the swarf will have a place to escape.
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Sat, May 10, 2014 5:36 AM
monserandsons
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Reply to STEPHEN:
[quote="mrsmackpaul"]the biggest thing with using a hole saw is you must remember that the teath are only an 1/8th of an inch deep so once the teeth are below the surface you have stop clean the hole all the time like every 30 seconds as there is nowhere for the swarth to go drill a bit then blow it out with compressed air I think you will find it will work much better I have never used carbide tip holesaws just normal steel ones with plenty of oil and keep blowing them out and drill thru steel an inch thick ok good luck

Paul[/quote]

What you do to help with the chip clearing problem is to let the saw score the circular line, then drill a series of 1/8" or so holes around the circle so some of the swarf will have a place to escape.
its absouloutely imperative that the drill chuck be rotating towards the direction of the teeth. youll know when your going in the right direction because youll repeatedly smash your fingers on the frame don't quote me though cause im probably the least experienced of these direct start fanatics. actually iv found an air starter that will match my setup and im gonna get a little briggs to heat the manifold and turn an air pump and then mount an air tank maybe 25 gallon on the left fender good luck
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Sat, May 10, 2014 8:47 AM
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