Dozer Lessons

Hi Ken,
I notice you have the blade tipped backwards to the second last hole of the blade tip adjuster.
Maybe by standing the blade upright more it would be less agressive at digging in, especially in soft ground.
The blade tends to skid more than dig in if it is tilted forwards as it lessens the cutting angle of the cutting edge. Maybe experiment with tip angles to get a better result.

The blade speed difference is likely due to the primitive hydraulic system and large bore cylinders.
The piston area and cylinder volume is quite different from the rod to the head ends of the cylinder due to the area and volume of the cylinder rod. That is, if the same pump volume is applied to either end of the cylinder in the same time it will give a different speed of rod travel--if that makes sense.

Also if you can find a larger diameter idler it will help steady the machine by tip toeing on the idler instead of the further back first roller. The idlers are set higher than the first roller for easy turning in Ag. applications.--Dozers need the idler and rollers at the same level.
Maybe build up (increase) the diameter the idler to achieve this.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

If you are lucky you can find a counter-weight like what is used on the trascavators, it rests on the drawbar brackets and is secured via extended rear cover bolts.

Hi, 4D2Ken.
I suspect that EDB is on the right track here. (He usually is.) There were two sizes of front idler for the smaller Cat crawlers, the standard size for agricultural/drawbar work and the large one for dozer work. The smaller one gave better manouverability during drawbar work but was almost as helpful as a breast pocket in a G-string at maintaining good balance with a dozer blade hanging on the front.

Somebody on here, possibly Old Magnet, will have the idler diameter specs for small and large idlers of D2's. from which you will be able to work out which you have on your little jigger. If you have the small ones, it is possible to have them built up by welding bands of fairly high quality steel around the flanges, the running services on each side and also around the raised ring in the middle which helps to keep the track running centered on the idler. It is not a job that I would suggest you tackle yourself unless you are a pretty experienced welder with pretty good equipment. I would also NOT suggest trying to build them up piece by piece while still installed 'cos you stand a fair chance of cooking the seals around the idler axles.

Or you could put the word out that you are looking for a good pair of large D2 front idlers.

Just my 0.02. Hope it helps.

If you decide to go to larger idlers, then you will need longer rails/tracks as I remember they are 2 links longer.

EDB, Don mentioned the blade tip angle also, but we were trying to dig a pond so I stuck with the angle that was on the blade when I bought the dozer. Good point though and I will experiment with the tip angle.

As for larger idlers, plus having to lengthen the track, good idea but probably more work than it is worth for the amount of time I am going to spend on this Cat.
Stephen, A counterbalance on the rear is something I was thinking about. I don't know how much one for a traxcavator would cost, but I fantasized about filling a 55 gallon barrel with concrete and mounting it on back somehow. 😊


When I practiced mowing down some blackberry vines I noticed the temp gauge got up to 200 degrees. That is the highest I've seen it read, so can a D2 handle that? As soon as I noticed it was that high I found a cool spot, turned into the gentle breeze, and let it idle for about five minutes.

4D2ken,

Well this a interesting. Yes one can see that the tractor is noise heavy without any doubt. I would as mentioned above, and that would be add a large counter weight on the back that will be the easiest and simplest way to overcome some of the problems with it being noise heavy, as well as carrying a smother grade and help with backing up as well. Working on the linkage for better dozer control may or may not help, there several things to take into concretion when dealing with the hyd system to achieve better control, but trying what you have suggest won’t hurt.

As for the subject of the idler, and the boys should know this as well, and that is, the large idler is for draw-bar work and the small idlers are for dozer work, so going to a large idler I doubt will help your dozer work as far as smoothest is concerned and as mentioned above you’ll need at least two more links/pads and may have to lengthy the track frame by 2 3/8”, I know that had to be done when installing the two position idler on the D2’s when they became available.

As for the dozer adjustment, tipping, with the top, laid back as yours shows in photograph decrease the digging angle, tipping the top forward (away from the tractor) will increase the digging angle. As a suggestion you could start with the dozer straight up and down to start with, and adjusting one way or the other….suiting yourself. For the clearing of the bushes one will have better luck by staring a little back and cutting under the bush and then raise it up pushing it out, or taking a side cut with the side of the dozer, overlap from which has been cleared, not taking a bite, working across the area that way.

Not being a critic, unkind, or distasteful to you, your tractor or project, I have to say that a D2 was just not much of a dozer tractor, in general they were a farm tractor for drawbar work, with later a dozer added, kind of like a pocket on shirt, so don’t beat yourself up if things don’t come out as planned, you know, a little bumpy or wavy. I doubt if you, me or anyone one on this BB could split a ½ tenth for a 100 ft. with a D2 like some have with a larger dozer.

As for the overheating, keep a close eye on the radiator and cleaning off the trash that accumulates on the radiator. Maybe a screen over or around the front would help. That’s one of the problems in clearing the fan sucking in all the loose trash. Smart move on the cool down. So, good luck and keep coming back.

Kelly

Kelly,

I disagree with the statement that smaller Idlers are for dozing and larger ones are for drawbar work. I have always been tought the opposite. Large idlers are for dozing.-glen

Ummm...hello
I have one of those little red dozers and...the idlers are adjustable.
The manual clearly states to lower the idler for front mounted tools ie. dozer blade.
The idler is to be raised for drawbar work.
Is it possible to do this on a D2 without re engineering the whole machine.
Take about a half hour and a few crunched knuckles on my little red guy.
And we all know those red ones are farm crawlers.
It's a 59 t5 inter.
Regards Chris

Ken, the D2's are good a good selling tractors. If you plan on doing lots of dirt work sell it and upgarde a size or two. Once you get in the seat of a D6 or D7 you'll love it and never look back 👍

Try to make it down to one of Pops playdays. He's good about letting people run his old D7 dozer. It's soooo well balanced and easy to grade with. You'll feel like a Cat Skinner after a few minutes in the seat.