Discontinued parts availability?

If that socket is on a 1/4" drive, put a 3" long extension on it. Thats the way I set mine up. If your injection system is in good shape. The only time you would need to bleed it is if the fuel system is empty. (ran out of fuel, changed filters)

If that socket is on a 1/4" drive, put a 3" long extension on it. Thats the way I set mine up. If your injection system is in good shape. The only time you would need to bleed it is if the fuel system is empty. (ran out of fuel, changed filters)

The Cat supplied socket is 1/4" drive. If the old L shape wrenches aren't available I can get an 1/4" extension and swivel as suggested. You are right that this is a rare procedure under normal circumstances. I just got a 5U D2 going after sitting for a decade. It started right up after cleaning the starting engine gas tank and carb and putting in an inline gas filter. However the diesel tank also had a bit of rust near the filler neck so after cleaning it I drained a few gallons of fuel from the tank and from the filter housing on the engine block. Then it didn't want to start without bleeding the injectors for four consecutive starts. Since getting the machine out in the field and pulling hard for half a day it hasn't needed injector bleeding. Practically it is easier to leave the L wrench in the fender mounted tool box than to have to find the Cat special socket or make one from your socket set.

Thanks,

Joe

The Cat supplied socket is 1/4" drive. If the old L shape wrenches aren't available I can get an 1/4" extension and swivel as suggested. You are right that this is a rare procedure under normal circumstances. I just got a 5U D2 going after sitting for a decade. It started right up after cleaning the starting engine gas tank and carb and putting in an inline gas filter. However the diesel tank also had a bit of rust near the filler neck so after cleaning it I drained a few gallons of fuel from the tank and from the filter housing on the engine block. Then it didn't want to start without bleeding the injectors for four consecutive starts. Since getting the machine out in the field and pulling hard for half a day it hasn't needed injector bleeding. Practically it is easier to leave the L wrench in the fender mounted tool box than to have to find the Cat special socket or make one from your socket set.

Thanks,

Joe

I just got done doing the bleeding procedures on a D4 2T that has not run for 10-15 years. No luck starting yet but thats a different story. My thoughts are why didn't they just make the heads of the stupid bleeder scews, a regular hex head like every other bolt in the world?:doh::doh: Or even make the two flat spots so a 1/4 inch wrench would work. Fortunatly I had an ignition wrench set that had a wrench just a twitch bigger than 1/4. OR maybe even put a slot in the top for a flat head screwdriver? Ok, got that off my chest.😱😱 The good news is the pony motor started after minor repairs and runs seemingly well.:whoo::whoo::whoo: Not far from starting, THEN on to the flywheel and steering clutches. YEA!!

I have the same cat 1/4 drive bleeder socket and have used it with an extention and small breaker bar. Last year I aquired a 1950 D4 6U out of a shed. I had to pull the side cover on the injection pump and free the rack and two stuck plungers before it would start. Starts very easy now and runs well. Dandy Dave!

I have one of the old L-shape wrenches. Also have a D2 5J, a D2 5U engine, and a D7 3T. The wrench works great on the 5J and the 3T, just barely goes onto #1 pump only on the 5U. It's not as good as it looks.

Loosen the flare nut at the injectors. You won't need to bleed the pumps.