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diesel thirty five engine removal

diesel thirty five engine removal

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EW
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I am looking to pull the main motor on my diesel thirty five and am looking for any tips for this process. I already have removed the radiator, head and pony motor. plan on lifting up the transmission and block it up and slide engine out above the equalizer spring.
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Thu, Sep 19, 2013 8:10 PM
Ray54
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That is how I remember it being done.The only thing I can add,uncle always had steel bar with a lot wholes (1/2 x4x4 feet,with a piece of shaft as a strong back, maybe heavier)between the engine and hoist because it is easier to balance the engine and keep it level.The balance point was always a little different than I thought just looking at it.And of course to be safe have a big enough lifting device.As I have seen some I beams in a frame hoists that looked beefy but were not up to the job.Hopefully thing go as you plan.
Ray
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Thu, Sep 19, 2013 9:06 PM
drujinin
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Reply to Ray54:
That is how I remember it being done.The only thing I can add,uncle always had steel bar with a lot wholes (1/2 x4x4 feet,with a piece of shaft as a strong back, maybe heavier)between the engine and hoist because it is easier to balance the engine and keep it level.The balance point was always a little different than I thought just looking at it.And of course to be safe have a big enough lifting device.As I have seen some I beams in a frame hoists that looked beefy but were not up to the job.Hopefully thing go as you plan.
Ray
Bill bringing his truck mounted crane or are you going to try a "cherry picker"?
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Thu, Sep 19, 2013 11:36 PM
EW
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Reply to drujinin:
Bill bringing his truck mounted crane or are you going to try a "cherry picker"?
Can anyone tell me if there is anything I need to remove on the clutch to get the engine out?
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Tue, Sep 24, 2013 9:31 AM
drujinin
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Reply to EW:
Can anyone tell me if there is anything I need to remove on the clutch to get the engine out?
Should not need to worry, just yank it out. I picked up a Parts tractor over the weekend with the engine out. Clutch assembly stays with the transmission! 👍
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Tue, Sep 24, 2013 6:46 PM
fordhook
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Reply to drujinin:
Should not need to worry, just yank it out. I picked up a Parts tractor over the weekend with the engine out. Clutch assembly stays with the transmission! 👍
You will not be able to remove the engine without removing the transmission cover. You will have to remove the clutch links before the engine will separate from the transmission. Do this first before lifting the engine up over the equalizer spring. Take your time and don't break anything.
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Wed, Sep 25, 2013 10:36 AM
EW
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Reply to fordhook:
You will not be able to remove the engine without removing the transmission cover. You will have to remove the clutch links before the engine will separate from the transmission. Do this first before lifting the engine up over the equalizer spring. Take your time and don't break anything.
Thanks for the help. Will write more if I have more questions.
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Wed, Sep 25, 2013 6:20 PM
edb
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Reply to EW:
Thanks for the help. Will write more if I have more questions.
Hi EW,
if you have the manpower and lifting facilities available you should be able to remove the equalizer spring by first removing the jockey springs--the small ones that hold the main spring to the sump--with a suitable jack placed under the eye link and undoing the nut at that end that goes thru the sump rail. Once these are released then remove the keeper bolts and sleeves at the track frame ends of the main spring to facilitate removal of the spring after you tlift the front of the engine high enough for the spring to clear the sump and be manouvered out by sliding the spring first to one side and out.

Next lower the engine to be level and securely block both the front and rear or the main transmission case--the rear can be done via the drawbar--this needs to be done as on some units the trans case can be rear heavy after the engine is removed.
I feel you should be able to remove the drive links from the clutch without removing the top cover via the top opening, if not then remove the top cover as suggested--as said above the clutch is mounted on the top trans shaft.

All parts of these things are heavy and bite hard if you do the wrong thing--keep asking questions and think about what you are doing and above all use tackle that is suitable for the job.
With suitable lifting tackle the engine should now be able to be removed on a level plane after first checking all mount bolts are removed and any linkage etc is disconnected.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Thu, Sep 26, 2013 8:23 AM
drujinin
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Reply to edb:
Hi EW,
if you have the manpower and lifting facilities available you should be able to remove the equalizer spring by first removing the jockey springs--the small ones that hold the main spring to the sump--with a suitable jack placed under the eye link and undoing the nut at that end that goes thru the sump rail. Once these are released then remove the keeper bolts and sleeves at the track frame ends of the main spring to facilitate removal of the spring after you tlift the front of the engine high enough for the spring to clear the sump and be manouvered out by sliding the spring first to one side and out.

Next lower the engine to be level and securely block both the front and rear or the main transmission case--the rear can be done via the drawbar--this needs to be done as on some units the trans case can be rear heavy after the engine is removed.
I feel you should be able to remove the drive links from the clutch without removing the top cover via the top opening, if not then remove the top cover as suggested--as said above the clutch is mounted on the top trans shaft.

All parts of these things are heavy and bite hard if you do the wrong thing--keep asking questions and think about what you are doing and above all use tackle that is suitable for the job.
With suitable lifting tackle the engine should now be able to be removed on a level plane after first checking all mount bolts are removed and any linkage etc is disconnected.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
I got home at 10:30 last night and was putting some stuff away on the shelves. There was a D6 clutch assembly on the shelf. You do need to remove the links.
I should have remembered that before I answered!
👋
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Fri, Sep 27, 2013 7:26 PM
fordhook
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Reply to drujinin:
I got home at 10:30 last night and was putting some stuff away on the shelves. There was a D6 clutch assembly on the shelf. You do need to remove the links.
I should have remembered that before I answered!
👋
[attachment=19849]Photo207.jpg[/attachment][attachment=19850]Photo206.jpg[/attachment]
This is a what the transmission looks like with the engine and track frames removed.
Attachment
Attachment
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Mon, Sep 30, 2013 7:39 PM
EW
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Reply to fordhook:
[attachment=19849]Photo207.jpg[/attachment][attachment=19850]Photo206.jpg[/attachment]
This is a what the transmission looks like with the engine and track frames removed.
Attachment
Attachment
can you go though the clutch adjustment cover and unbolt the clutch links from the flywheel?
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Mon, Sep 30, 2013 9:26 PM
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