D9g Transmission flush?

Use 30W trans/drive train oil, 50 is to slick for steering clutches, actually I would get that 50W out of there asap. Get it up operating temp and drain and change filters.

Use 30W trans/drive train oil, 50 is to slick for steering clutches, actually I would get that 50W out of there asap. Get it up operating temp and drain and change filters.

I don't see any problem using the higher viscosity (SAE 50 TDTO TO-4 spec) oil in your climate.

Hi Old Magnet, you would drain and refill? I think at this point it is a good idea to drain what is in there and refill with SAE 30/or 50. TDTO TO-4 spec). My only issue is I can't afford to purchase 1100 worth of oil to drain and refill. I should have put some cheap stuff in ran it and dumped that.... I think for peace of mine I will put the cheap stuff in run it for a little and then dump and put fresh in of the proper spec ect....

I just wasn't sure if the 50W you got was spec'ed for use in steering clutch compartments, if so run it for awhile. Dont forget the drain plug on the oil cooler also. One is for coolant and one for oil.

I just wasn't sure if the 50W you got was spec'ed for use in steering clutch compartments, if so run it for awhile. Dont forget the drain plug on the oil cooler also. One is for coolant and one for oil.

The good news is the old girl can certainly move some dirt and in addition now with the new coolers she is staying nice and cool... I can work her all day... Yesterday I got some seat time of 3-4 hours.. I took down some huge trees and back bladed and tracked a bit... I was watching some old videos and I am trying not to use my brakes and use the decelerator to control movement...

Good, yes use the engine rpm according to power needed to operate smoothly and full rpm when under heavy load. "Smooth and steady gets it done"

Hi George,
to drain the actual Torque Con. Rotating Housing that is within the main T/C outer housing that is drained by its big lower drain plug, you will need remove the T/C scavenge pump, inside there you will find a ring of bolts that retain the big alloy T/C Impeller to the steel T/C rotating housing.

Only Two of the bolt holes are drilled right thru to the inside of the oil compartment of the housing.

Around the side of the steel rotating housing should be 2 markings, opposite each other, with DRAIN stamped into the rotating housing steel case--the 2 opposite bolts that align to the stamped DRAIN need to be removed to drain some 4-5 gallons of oil from the actual T/C Rotating Housing.
Early units had an Allen head plug or two in the side of the case but these were nasty to try and remove.

If you did not drain the T/C rotating housing previously then this is a likely source of most of the current discolouration you have as it now seems not all of the system's contaminated oil was drained previously.

You will need to de-compress the engine and turn it so as to locate and remove the two Drain bolts, set one bolt hole at around the six o'clock position to drain the case--Refit BOTH bolts after draining.
There is no need to refill the T/C as when you start up again it will refill itself safely.
BUT, be sure to put around 2 gallons of oil into the main outer T/C housing for the Scavenge Pump to pump until the T/C housing refills and starts to leak the required oil to keep the Scav. Pump lubricated so as it does not seize up.
Cheers,
Eddie B.