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Neil D
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Any of you guys know the parts number for the drain plug for the transmission and back end? Cant seem to find it in the parts book-serial number is 66A12828.
thanks
Neil
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Sun, Sep 13, 2009 5:49 AM
Old Magnet
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Yes, it is kind of hidden....look at the center of the rear case plan view diagram...in a drawing window that says sump. The plug # is 1B5170.
My parts books are for units above and below you sr. no. but they all appear to use the same.
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Sun, Sep 13, 2009 6:39 AM
Neil D
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Yes, it is kind of hidden....look at the center of the rear case plan view diagram...in a drawing window that says sump. The plug # is 1B5170.
My parts books are for units above and below you sr. no. but they all appear to use the same.
Old Magnet
Somehow I knew you would be the guy with the information, lol
Thank you

My parts book is a Caterpillar publication but that diagram you are referring to is missing,I checked the page numbers and none have been removed.

The reason I need a sump bung is the old one has been damaged and as I am trying to cure transmission oil leaking through the stud holes I thought now was a good time to replace it! By the way any advice on stopping these leaks?

Neil
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Sun, Sep 13, 2009 8:38 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Neil D:
Old Magnet
Somehow I knew you would be the guy with the information, lol
Thank you

My parts book is a Caterpillar publication but that diagram you are referring to is missing,I checked the page numbers and none have been removed.

The reason I need a sump bung is the old one has been damaged and as I am trying to cure transmission oil leaking through the stud holes I thought now was a good time to replace it! By the way any advice on stopping these leaks?

Neil
Hi Niel,
Here's the parts page for 66A9418 -66A12015 that may be useful.

Nothing fancy on stud sealing....I just slobber #2 Permatex on the threads. Key is to get the thread holes free of oil so the mastic will stick....not always easy.
Also there is always the risk of breakage when removing.....another fun job.
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Sun, Sep 13, 2009 11:08 PM
Gordon.
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Hi Niel,
Here's the parts page for 66A9418 -66A12015 that may be useful.

Nothing fancy on stud sealing....I just slobber #2 Permatex on the threads. Key is to get the thread holes free of oil so the mastic will stick....not always easy.
Also there is always the risk of breakage when removing.....another fun job.
Neil hello, remove the studs and clean them and the female threads. Make sure they are dry of oil then use 270 loctite studlock, put the loctite in the hole and it will be pulled in as you screw the stud in. if you put iton the stud it gets fed off as you screw it in.
Regards Gordon.
PS use the gas axe if you like Lol
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Mon, Sep 14, 2009 3:37 AM
Neil D
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Reply to Gordon.:
Neil hello, remove the studs and clean them and the female threads. Make sure they are dry of oil then use 270 loctite studlock, put the loctite in the hole and it will be pulled in as you screw the stud in. if you put iton the stud it gets fed off as you screw it in.
Regards Gordon.
PS use the gas axe if you like Lol
Thanks Gordon-I was told to use the hot spanner to burn off or "dry" the oil off before doing anything.

The other point of interest is that several people told me not to use the likes of Locktite studlock in case a stud would break and the removal could be very difficult-any comments?

Thanks
Neil
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Mon, Sep 14, 2009 3:42 AM
SJ
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Reply to Neil D:
Thanks Gordon-I was told to use the hot spanner to burn off or "dry" the oil off before doing anything.

The other point of interest is that several people told me not to use the likes of Locktite studlock in case a stud would break and the removal could be very difficult-any comments?

Thanks
Neil
Permatex will work about as good as anything you could put on the threads as I used it at the shop with good results and even on head gaskets that were a problem like the D6 U series and other engines that leaked along the outside edges.I always used the #2 black non hardening but someone said you can,t buy it anymore but I can,t answer that if it,s true or not.
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Mon, Sep 14, 2009 4:05 AM
Gordon.
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Reply to Neil D:
Thanks Gordon-I was told to use the hot spanner to burn off or "dry" the oil off before doing anything.

The other point of interest is that several people told me not to use the likes of Locktite studlock in case a stud would break and the removal could be very difficult-any comments?

Thanks
Neil
Hi Neil. A broken stud can easily be removed. Place a large washer over the stud, the id fitting the stud as snug as poss. Weld the washer to the stud then weld a large nut to the washer and stud together use a spanner on the nut before it cools down as the loctite will melt. Permatex is ok but we use loctite as it locks tight !!!
Gordon.
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Mon, Sep 14, 2009 4:06 AM
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