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D8H D342 Blowing Water out Rad

D8H D342 Blowing Water out Rad

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Max Bray
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Can anyone tell me where to start checking this engine, after about an hour radiator starts pukeing some water, in the past I thought it had pushed out a certain amount of water then was ok now it seems worse, almost like I am getting combustion gases in the radiator, what is a good way to check for bad head gasket, what can leak gases into coolant system besides head gasket? Had radiator vatted last year. Why does it take an hour to start doing it? Thanks in advance for letting me dip into this pool of knowledge. D342 year 1968
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Thu, Apr 7, 2011 6:43 AM
bob
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Max, when it starts blowing out coolant, stop and let it idle down then release the pressure from the rad. Continue to work and see how long it takes to start again. What is the temp gauge reading? Unfortunatly from past experiance I keep thinking a low liner.
Later Bob
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Thu, Apr 7, 2011 7:31 AM
bluox
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Fill your radiator over full,start engine and check for bubbles.
Bob
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Thu, Apr 7, 2011 7:33 AM
catalac
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Reply to bluox:
Fill your radiator over full,start engine and check for bubbles.
Bob
We had a 2U doing the same thing a year ago. Found the head bolts were loose and the grommets between the head and block had erroded either from head movement or from hot exhaust gas blowing on them. We replaced the grommets on the ferrules, put the same head gasket back, torqued the head bolts to the proper torque, started and worked the engine with no bubbles in the radiator. Replacement grommets came from Ziegler, the Cat Dealer in Minnesota. In this case, I think the expansion of the bolts and the head were such that the head to block joint loosened more as things warmed up.

Good Luck!


Regards,
Lee
Lee Sorbel-ACMOC Past President
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Thu, Apr 7, 2011 8:37 AM
RonnieAdams
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Reply to bluox:
Fill your radiator over full,start engine and check for bubbles.
Bob
Probably low liner projection or sometimes a precombustion chamber can have a pin hole or bad chamber gasket at the chamber seat. But not all is lost the block can be counterbore and shims installed under the liners. Just alot of work.
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Thu, Apr 7, 2011 8:42 AM
d9gdon
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Reply to RonnieAdams:
Probably low liner projection or sometimes a precombustion chamber can have a pin hole or bad chamber gasket at the chamber seat. But not all is lost the block can be counterbore and shims installed under the liners. Just alot of work.
Yep, I think you're gonna have to pull the engine down and have the counterbores re-cut and put shims in to get your liner to the proper projection. It's common on these types of engines for that to happen. I had a D339 in a D7E to do the same thing and that's the same engine as your D342 minus 2 cylinders.

Now, there are O-rings and and a steel washer on and under your precombustion chambers that can pressurize the radiator too if not sealing right. You might want to pull all of them and reseal them just to start with the simplest. Check your pre-com chambers for pinholes in them too when you pull them. You have to have a special splined tool to remove them. The dealer usually keeps them in stock, they're about $50 new.
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Thu, Apr 7, 2011 11:48 AM
yancy44 mag
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Reply to d9gdon:
Yep, I think you're gonna have to pull the engine down and have the counterbores re-cut and put shims in to get your liner to the proper projection. It's common on these types of engines for that to happen. I had a D339 in a D7E to do the same thing and that's the same engine as your D342 minus 2 cylinders.

Now, there are O-rings and and a steel washer on and under your precombustion chambers that can pressurize the radiator too if not sealing right. You might want to pull all of them and reseal them just to start with the simplest. Check your pre-com chambers for pinholes in them too when you pull them. You have to have a special splined tool to remove them. The dealer usually keeps them in stock, they're about $50 new.
what year is your 46 a my dad and i had 4 46A s mid sre nos we had a lot of trouble with hair line cracks in the heads we up dated then to real late ser no heads and never had any truoble with them after that we ran 24/7 365 working in a Diatomaceous earth mine you mite check with cat or a good eng shop on the heads
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Thu, Apr 7, 2011 6:32 PM
catsilver
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Reply to yancy44 mag:
what year is your 46 a my dad and i had 4 46A s mid sre nos we had a lot of trouble with hair line cracks in the heads we up dated then to real late ser no heads and never had any truoble with them after that we ran 24/7 365 working in a Diatomaceous earth mine you mite check with cat or a good eng shop on the heads
First make sure it is not something daft like the radiator pressure relief valve not working, it should hold around 14psi. if it holds pressure, put a hose on the relief valve and into a pint bottle full of water, with the engine running at full temp, flip the bottle upside down in a bucket of water and check how long it takes for gas from the radiator to displace all the water in the bottle,anything less than 30 seconds means you have a problem, and, as others have said, these engines are notorious for the liners dropping in the block. I am also sure that many engines have been pulled apart when there was not really a problem, that's why i would check the rate of leakage first .
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Thu, Apr 7, 2011 7:14 PM
Lance Jones
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Reply to catsilver:
First make sure it is not something daft like the radiator pressure relief valve not working, it should hold around 14psi. if it holds pressure, put a hose on the relief valve and into a pint bottle full of water, with the engine running at full temp, flip the bottle upside down in a bucket of water and check how long it takes for gas from the radiator to displace all the water in the bottle,anything less than 30 seconds means you have a problem, and, as others have said, these engines are notorious for the liners dropping in the block. I am also sure that many engines have been pulled apart when there was not really a problem, that's why i would check the rate of leakage first .
Plenty of ideas here and all are Valid. ,Having run a small fleet of H's K's for years We always with a heat problem checked Heads with a Laser heat gun First. if it is a cracked head that Cyl will show a higher reading . Can save a lot of work and expense pulling Both heads . Also a piece of advise , if you do remove a head ,replace manifold joining rings with Cat only . Non genuine are too soft . LJ
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Fri, Apr 8, 2011 1:35 AM
Casey Root
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Reply to Lance Jones:
Plenty of ideas here and all are Valid. ,Having run a small fleet of H's K's for years We always with a heat problem checked Heads with a Laser heat gun First. if it is a cracked head that Cyl will show a higher reading . Can save a lot of work and expense pulling Both heads . Also a piece of advise , if you do remove a head ,replace manifold joining rings with Cat only . Non genuine are too soft . LJ
Hi Max

I had the exact same problem with my D6C.:noidea: Found out the bypasses around the thermostat were plugged. Both of them. This created a boiling situation in the block until the thermostat warmed and opened and then she blew her top. It didn't matter how tight the cap was.:eek2: The bypass in the thermostat housing was plugged with crud and the 1/8 inch tube from the water pump to the upper tube with a piece of "O" ring material. I cleared those two passages and no more problems. This was an inexpensive fix. Check it out!

Casey
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Fri, Apr 8, 2011 11:29 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Casey Root:
Hi Max

I had the exact same problem with my D6C.:noidea: Found out the bypasses around the thermostat were plugged. Both of them. This created a boiling situation in the block until the thermostat warmed and opened and then she blew her top. It didn't matter how tight the cap was.:eek2: The bypass in the thermostat housing was plugged with crud and the 1/8 inch tube from the water pump to the upper tube with a piece of "O" ring material. I cleared those two passages and no more problems. This was an inexpensive fix. Check it out!

Casey
Is the pressure relief valve working properly? Relief pressure is 10 psi vacuum relief is 2.5 psi.

Before getting into the big stuff there are two orifice holes in the thermostat cover assy that prevent air from being trapped in the cooling system. Check/clean these orifices with a #42 drill if they show signs of scale or clogging.

The effect would be as Casey Root describes, and that's what reminded me.
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Sat, Apr 9, 2011 12:08 AM
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