D8 2U Flywheel clutch replacement

[quote="scarter"]Does anyone have any tricks or tip on replacing the flywheel clutch on a D8 2U (dry clutch) Any and all advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott[/quote]

Just thought I'd try again....renewing the thread...

Thanks,
Scott

[quote="scarter"]Just thought I'd try again....renewing the thread...

Thanks,
Scott[/quote]
Do you have the little "Servicemans Reference Manual" ? As I recall the section on the dry clutch is only a few pages, but does outline the procedure. If you don't have that book and want one I can help with that.
Rick/mn
218-851-2629

Scott, I pulled and rebuilt the engine in my D8 2U. So pulling the flywheel was easy with the block on the ground. Which I believe you have to do the same, pull it! You have to unhook your clutch fiber links, then remove the hard nose/front end. Unbolt the engine mounts from the frame rails and slid the engine forward a bit then lift up over equalizer spring cross member. Remember it weights 6,000lbs and keep track of the shims, so when you slide the engine back into place it will be centered with the clutch again.

Good Luck 👍

[quote="Mike Mc"]Scott, I pulled and rebuilt the engine in my D8 2U. So pulling the flywheel was easy with the block on the ground. Which I believe you have to do the same, pull it! You have to unhook your clutch fiber links, then remove the hard nose/front end. Unbolt the engine mounts from the frame rails and slid the engine forward a bit then lift up over equalizer spring cross member. Remember it weights 6,000lbs and keep track of the shims, so when you slide the engine back into place it will be centered with the clutch again.

Good Luck 👍[/quote]

But does not the SRM describe how to do the clutch without removing the engine. A lot of folks don't have the facility or lifting equipment to remove a 6000# engine

Scott:

You either pull (silde forward) the engine, or remove it by taking the nut off the front, sliding the shaft back, and pulling out the top. It does not matter which way you do it, you will wish you did it the other way.

Last summer I did one by sliding the shaft back, and was not all that bad. I even had a CCU to contend with. It takes a lot of time, but is rather simple. I spend 3+hours getting the nut back on when I was putting it back together. Just follow the book and it works. The first tip I can give you is to have every bar, 2-3 ft rod, and anything else you might think you may need available - will use most of them. After getting it apart, I like to take the center plate out first, and the front and back plate. Go back together just in reverse, Back plate on the shaft, front plate just setting in there, and then slide the center plate down between them and more the shart forward.

The other thing is to make sure you do not pull the shaft back too far, or you will be taking the top off the trans.

To pull the shaft back, a 2'+ section of 3/4" all thread rod works well. screw it into the end of the shaft, make a plate for the back, a nut or two, and you have great control over pulling the shaft.

Another way is to remove half of the studs that are in the flywheel that the fiber links are attached to and pull it out the top. I know that there may be variations in clutch setups in the D8 2u so this may not always work but it does on mine. Also a 1/2 ton come a long so that you can lift it out and in is a must. It has been about 20 years since I help remove one but this is all we did.

Thats what I remember too - taking out a few of the drive studs. And its still plenty heavy. I'm sure its been 20 years since I was involved in that process too. I liked that line -"however you do it you'll think you should have done it the other way"

Anybody notice something wrong in one of my pics?

You mean that "see thru" Block!!!!!