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D8-15A Cable Control Unit

D8-15A Cable Control Unit

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redsisbest
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My CCU is slipping allowing the blade to drop. I think this is a #29 unit but I am not sure. Any info out there on this? Really need to get this going as the weather is about to break I hope.
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Tue, Mar 18, 2008 5:28 AM
SJ
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That problem is usually just a matter of adjustment of the brake if I remember right but I don,t have a book on the adjustment and been too many years to just remember how to do it. Probably OM on here has a book to be able to explain to you how to do the adjustment of the brake & clutch discs.
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Tue, Mar 18, 2008 5:39 AM
Rodney R
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Reply to SJ:
That problem is usually just a matter of adjustment of the brake if I remember right but I don,t have a book on the adjustment and been too many years to just remember how to do it. Probably OM on here has a book to be able to explain to you how to do the adjustment of the brake & clutch discs.
I would think the same as SJ - it would be the brake. Either you've put too much oil on the cable, and it's worked it's way into the brake (in which case the only cure is to let things 'dry' out) or the brake is too loose. With the main motor shut down (ALWAYS) you'll have to remove the grill, and simply tighten the brake..... The picture below is a #24, but I'm thinking that the #29 and #30 would be about the same.....

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/rrodneyr/No24CCU.jpg[/img]


As I recall, there is somewhat of an arrow, or punched 'V' mark on the #5, and that corresponds to where #1 should line up when the control lever is in the 'neutral' position. To adjust, you simply loosen the nut on the right side of the threaded rod, and tighten the one on the left. There is no number in the above pic for the actual adjusting rod, but it's plain to see, and it's attached to #1 and #7.....

OM can corect me if I'm wrong, as all my experience is with a #24....

Rodney
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Tue, Mar 18, 2008 7:26 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Rodney R:
I would think the same as SJ - it would be the brake. Either you've put too much oil on the cable, and it's worked it's way into the brake (in which case the only cure is to let things 'dry' out) or the brake is too loose. With the main motor shut down (ALWAYS) you'll have to remove the grill, and simply tighten the brake..... The picture below is a #24, but I'm thinking that the #29 and #30 would be about the same.....

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/rrodneyr/No24CCU.jpg[/img]


As I recall, there is somewhat of an arrow, or punched 'V' mark on the #5, and that corresponds to where #1 should line up when the control lever is in the 'neutral' position. To adjust, you simply loosen the nut on the right side of the threaded rod, and tighten the one on the left. There is no number in the above pic for the actual adjusting rod, but it's plain to see, and it's attached to #1 and #7.....

OM can corect me if I'm wrong, as all my experience is with a #24....

Rodney
Bare with me Gents,
My #1 computer is down and I'm a little rusty with computer #2 (wifes)

That would be the #29 (driveshaft model)....tis a little different and I have the adjustment info. Will scan a little later this eve. (after a dry run on other scanner🙄 🙄 )
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Tue, Mar 18, 2008 8:23 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Bare with me Gents,
My #1 computer is down and I'm a little rusty with computer #2 (wifes)

That would be the #29 (driveshaft model)....tis a little different and I have the adjustment info. Will scan a little later this eve. (after a dry run on other scanner🙄 🙄 )
Here is the adjustment instructions
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Tue, Mar 18, 2008 9:43 AM
redsisbest
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Here is the adjustment instructions
Many thanks Old Magnet for the support. Been racking my brain to figure how to build a wrench to get on the lower lock/castle (#4) nut to back it off without taking the side cover off. I have an idea on how to do it but taking the sidecover off for one adjustment will be about as easy. Since I obviously haven't made this adjustment before you've taken the guesswork out of it for me. Old Catmen are a special breed ...................and thanks to all else for their input..........Red
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Tue, Mar 18, 2008 12:47 PM
Old 3T lover
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Reply to redsisbest:
Many thanks Old Magnet for the support. Been racking my brain to figure how to build a wrench to get on the lower lock/castle (#4) nut to back it off without taking the side cover off. I have an idea on how to do it but taking the sidecover off for one adjustment will be about as easy. Since I obviously haven't made this adjustment before you've taken the guesswork out of it for me. Old Catmen are a special breed ...................and thanks to all else for their input..........Red
Years ago I had a 15A D-8 and I think I used the same wrench to adjust the brakes on it as I did the D-7's with the #25 and #24 CCU units. I cut the end off a 3/4" open end wrench and welded it at a 90 degree angle to the wrench shaft. Kept it in a special place in the tool box just for CCU adjustments.

I always loosened the 'easy' nut first on the adjustment rod and then, if neccessary, turned the other nut (usually a castle nut??) with a screwdriver.

Nothing to it after you do it once or twice.
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Tue, Mar 18, 2008 7:24 PM
redsisbest
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Reply to Old 3T lover:
Years ago I had a 15A D-8 and I think I used the same wrench to adjust the brakes on it as I did the D-7's with the #25 and #24 CCU units. I cut the end off a 3/4" open end wrench and welded it at a 90 degree angle to the wrench shaft. Kept it in a special place in the tool box just for CCU adjustments.

I always loosened the 'easy' nut first on the adjustment rod and then, if neccessary, turned the other nut (usually a castle nut??) with a screwdriver.

Nothing to it after you do it once or twice.
Yeah, that's pretty much what I had in mind 3T and since you've been there done that I'll give that a stab first. If it was sittin in my shop instead of out in the mud things would be different. Thanks....Red
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Wed, Mar 19, 2008 12:17 AM
domovoy
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Reply to redsisbest:
Yeah, that's pretty much what I had in mind 3T and since you've been there done that I'll give that a stab first. If it was sittin in my shop instead of out in the mud things would be different. Thanks....Red
hello to all

i have an old d8 (sn. 14a2920) that i am currently trying to start up.

i will also have to rebuild the ccu as only the blade cable seems to engage.
the ccu is not covered in the d8 manual - apparently it had its own manual.

? is there an on-line source for this ( as well as other pert. shop & parts info ) ?

? also is there a way to lock the blade up so that its cable may used ?

i am basically learning as i am groping along, and hope i haven't broken anything worse than it already was.

any tips or refs from here would be sorely appreciated !


*****
I corrected the serial no. for my D8: the "e" shoulda been "a"
It's now truly sn# 14a2920
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Wed, May 29, 2013 12:59 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to domovoy:
hello to all

i have an old d8 (sn. 14a2920) that i am currently trying to start up.

i will also have to rebuild the ccu as only the blade cable seems to engage.
the ccu is not covered in the d8 manual - apparently it had its own manual.

? is there an on-line source for this ( as well as other pert. shop & parts info ) ?

? also is there a way to lock the blade up so that its cable may used ?

i am basically learning as i am groping along, and hope i haven't broken anything worse than it already was.

any tips or refs from here would be sorely appreciated !


*****
I corrected the serial no. for my D8: the "e" shoulda been "a"
It's now truly sn# 14a2920
Easiest way I know to hold it up is to install 3 cable clamps tight to each other with the saddle on the cable coming from the winch while the blade is up. You may need a 8 inch long piece of cable with it to get the crosbys tight. Then loosen the brake and the clamps and extra cable will not go thru the sheave thus holding the blade up. Then take the cable of the winch drum wrapping it up and securing the roll. Just reinsert the cable on the CCU, lift the blade a few inches and remove the Crosbys when you want to use the blade again. Although if you are doing much pulling work the blade is easy enough to remove and it being gone sure frees the machine up.
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Wed, May 29, 2013 1:23 AM
domovoy
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
Easiest way I know to hold it up is to install 3 cable clamps tight to each other with the saddle on the cable coming from the winch while the blade is up. You may need a 8 inch long piece of cable with it to get the crosbys tight. Then loosen the brake and the clamps and extra cable will not go thru the sheave thus holding the blade up. Then take the cable of the winch drum wrapping it up and securing the roll. Just reinsert the cable on the CCU, lift the blade a few inches and remove the Crosbys when you want to use the blade again. Although if you are doing much pulling work the blade is easy enough to remove and it being gone sure frees the machine up.
thanks for the tip, old-iron - will try that
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Wed, May 29, 2013 1:53 AM
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