D8 14a rollers

can't help you with the specific undercarriage problems, but for the broken exhaust manifold bolts in the pony, get your welder out and weld a flat washer to the bolt, then weld a nut to the washer, they will spin out easy using a 3/8 impact wrench. if the bolts are broken down inside the block, get a small 7018 rod and a steady hand, strikeyour arc on the bolt and hold the rod exactly centred in the hole so the flux runs out the edge, it will protect your casting and your block. bring that weld up through a nut and let it cool down. it will thread right out.

8H5380 is the part number for the end collar on the rollers.
The double flange roller part number (life time type-oil lubed) is a 8H5372
The single flange roller part number (life time type-oil lubed) is a 8H5371
Fits the 14A, 15A, 16A only, not the same as used on the D8H.
Parts for rebuild are available but not considered practical if rollers need to be welded up to original dimensions.

PioneerNorth,

Bottom Rollers can still be found. Call Dana at Florin, Fresno tractor, or Chad (WyoCat) on this BB. If you can't locate any, PM me and I have a lead on some.
Glen

Got the pup pulled out and sitting on the ground. Now to weld those nuts onto the studs. Going to be tricky as it's only 3/8 bolt. Only have a stick welder so going to use 3/32 7018. I've done this enough times on bigger bolts which are a little more forgiving. Here a few pics. B[attachment=39184]IMG_1820.jpg[/attachment][attachment=39185]IMG_1821.jpg[/attachment][attachment=39186]IMG_1822.jpg[/attachment]

Could I get a picture looking straight on at the starter pinion hole please. Looking for the large three bolt pattern around the hole and the s/n of the tractor to match. Thanks
I'm trying to verify if all models of 14A have the provision.

use your wire wheel on the studs before hand and get them good and clean , make sure your ground is as close to your stud as you can get without it being in the way. i have used an arc welder on small 3/8 bolts before with small 7018 rod like you plan on using. turn your heat down just so it is still easy to strike an arc. you can also use masking tape to prevent striking an arc on the gasket surfaces. it comes off asy with a razor scraper even if it melts a bit, duct tape is a pain in the butt. i have also used needle nose vise grips to hold the nut and then clamped the vise grips to the head with a big c clamp if it is in an awkward spot to hold the nut and run the welder.

Another option : if a small amount of stud is still protruding from the block.. Place a nut that just fits around the stud then braze them together. Let cool then unscrew. I was shown this on a broken head bolt. I was sure it wouldn't work. I had to buy lunch !

Here is the latest progress. Got the track frames pulled off the donor carcass. A nasty job because I didn't split the track. The track off the carcass is actually Terex. No zipper. Going to use the sealed lubricated on the running tractor. Pulled the hard nose off my other donor because it's in real nice shape. No gouges from loose trunnions. Got the track frames upside down in the shop so I can recondition the thread holes on the missing rollers. Everything else on these track frames is in excellent condition. Like I said before I'm going to look over my parts for the best rollers. Thanks for the offer on rollers Jan. Right now I need to see what I've got. Freight from down south is crazy to the Yukon. Here are some pics. B[attachment=39203]IMG_1823.jpg[/attachment][attachment=39204]IMG_1824.jpg[/attachment][attachment=39205]IMG_1825.jpg[/attachment]