D7E Wont Move

Are you sure the brakes are not stuck on? The transmission is obviously working if it prevents the shaft turning. if not the brakes, could be the converter not getting its oil. Don't start pulling it to pieces before proper tests.

He did check the brakes, but he did say he didnt know if he did that correctly. He was suggesting we take his john deere 8650 over there and give it a little tug, to see if it was the brakes that were sticking.

How would one check the converter out if it was getting the oil?

Hi,
I guess when you rev. the engine up, with the uni-joints not spinning, that the engine sounds like it labouring under load because the Torque Convertor is stalled ? indicating the brakes are locked on.

Sometimes it takes a really good stabbing push on the brake pedals to release the park brake ratchet pawls.

Other thing that can happen is that due to air leaks--or not--in the Trans Oil Pump suction line that the Trans Pump has not primed and so is not pumping oil.
There is a 1/8" NPT plug on top of the Trans Pump front cover that you can remove and pump some oil into prime the pump.
Prime the pump with the engine off--after priming, start the engine quickly and it should prime.

The Trans Pump is on the right hand side, top front face of the flywheel housing.
If the pump sounds like it is pumping marbles--banging sounds or like marbles rattling in a tin pot--then you likely have air leaks in the pump suction line system.

Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks for your reply Eddie, I will pass that info along to my dad and get him to check those things out! I never would have figured the brakes would be that good that they would actually stop the dozer from moving like that.

My uncle is a heavy duty mechanic (going on 40 years now) and he said the same thing about the brakes. I didnt hear a marble sound at all when I went and checked it out today.
Ill get him to check and Ill report back to see if that solves anything.

Hi,
properly working brakes should hold against 1st speed full throttle. If brakes were suspect we would have to dig the blade in as well to do a full torque convertor stall trans, TC and engine checks.
Eddie B.

Ok so I went out with my dad to the dozer today, we hooked up his big tractor. We pulled it first with it not running, brakes are not stuck at all.

I then started it up, and we pulled it, and the shaft was still not turning. I did get it to turn with my dad pulling it, and I put it in gear just for a second. So nothing there is seized or anything like that. There were no odd noises or anything like that either. I didnt bring a funnel to try priming the pump, so i guess that would be the next step.

My uncle (the heavy duty mechanic) is coming out on saturday morning to take a look with us, to see if he can give any insight as well.

I would be open to any more suggestions of things to try (other than priming the pump, Ill try that yet) if anyone has any input!

Sounds like its airlocked, recheck the oil level, add 30W if needed, work the gear shift lever from forward to reverse 1st gear several times see if it picks up. If not may have to check out the scavange pump or the rotor and stator is damaged in the convertor.
Gary

Hi,
early D7E's had mechanical safety valves (SV) that a big spring pushed the hand shift control lever back to neutral when the trans pump pressure drops below around 100 psi for more than 15 seconds.

Later ones could have a hydraulic SV and the shift lever can be pulled into gear but the trans does not shift until the pump pressure builds up over 100 psi and the shift lever has been shifted back to neutral for maybe 5 or so seconds so the safety system can reset itself.
If you pull the shift lever into gear and back to neutral and back into gear again without waiting for the system to reset the trans valves will stay in a safety neutral condition.
By your description you either have trans pump pressure and can pull the shift lever into gear with a mechanical SV or if you have a hydraulic safety valve you can pull the shift lever into gear even with no pump pressure.

If you can fit a pressure gauge that can read 500-600 psi to the bleed plug on the trans pump and see if you get around 300-360 psi. to see if your trans pump is working.
I would also suggest checking your trans pump suction screen and filter for any nasties.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Hi Eddie, is the safety aspect to prevent the oil overheating or somesuch?