D7E transmission oil cooler

Hi everyone, working on my D7E after the transmission oil cooler went out on it this fall. Been trying to source one here in Canada but that’s proving almost impossible. New is available from cat yet but at a fairly steep price of course.  I found a company in Florida that can send me one but it’s from a company I haven’t had any dealings with before. She said it was from a company called ACT which with a quick Google search I’m assuming is American Crane and Tractor Parts.  Has anyone here dealt with their parts before? Just wondering what the quality is like. They have very good pricing on their product, I just don’t want to end up with junk is all.  [attachment=65218]A2DCC39F-B3DC-4614-A641-60B147D17C81.jpeg[/attachment]

I have purchased from American Crane, no problems.

Thanks. Good to hear from someone who has purchased their parts before.

I put new into my D7E recently ,, after market ,,,it was made in Turkey ,,,seems to be fine .. Good luck

Well I finally got my parts the other day and started reassembly. Got most of it back together but haven’t flushed anything yet. Still have a few lines to hook up yet and some other small things. Found some other issues but I’ll start a different post as it might get more attention or be more searchable for others looking for the same info in the future. [attachment=65909]1EFE69F1-26BF-41A6-89CD-3597984B3E79.jpeg[/attachment] [attachment=65910]6B5BA113-F3A2-49D9-BA61-9EDE54A944F0.jpeg[/attachment]

OH boy, that all looks too familiar! Curious what the ball valve is? I'd recommend a pressure test on your system as I just did mine and both of that damn 4 bolt flanges leaked on me. Hopefully you were smarter and put a little spooge on them? Did ya end up knocking the starter loose to get those cooler bolts out?

Any surfaces that were a bit rough or pitted at all I put a very thin layer of silicone on and then torqued everything in nice and tight so hopefully I’ll have no leaks. The ball valve is for the remote heater that I have for it. It’s a standalone propane heater that circulates the water. Takes a while but definitely helps when it’s cold outside. Yup I had to kissed the starter bolts off so I could lift it up a little bit. Was able to sneak them in that way. Put red loctite on them all as I had them back out on me a few years ago. Didn’t notice it and it dropped the cooler and subsequently all the coolant. Caught it right away and wasn’t working the cat hard so no damage was done. Thankfully it didn’t hurt the threads and I was able to reuse the holes.

Pressure tested the cooling system yesterday after I got back home with some fittings and a few other parts. Found I was loosing pressure. Went back up this morning with some soapy water and found a couple small leaks. Fearing I may have a cracked head yet though. The end caps on the cooler had a few small leaks around the edges and the thermostat/regulator housing was leaking a bit on top and along the sides as well. Pulled the cooler back off tonight and added a film of silicone to the machined side hoping that will solve that issue. Was getting late so I didn’t take the thermostat housing apart. One thing I wondered is if the pre combustion chambers were leaking is if that would show up externally. I assume the o-rings would get cooked and leak before the gasket at the bottom. I thought it was a copper gasket but looking at the parts diagram and parts online it doesn’t appear so. Pressure doesn’t rapidly drop when I air it up but it’s enough to be a bit of a concern. First test I put 7lbs in and after about 5 minutes it had dropped a pound. That’s still quite a bit of volume of air to leak.  At 10 lbs pressure it leaks a bit quicker till the pressure drops down some.