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D7E tiler cylinder. Either find one or get the specs to fab one

D7E tiler cylinder. Either find one or get the specs to fab one

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bobby1
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Might have to settle for this D7E I have been looking at. I really need tilt. It ain't got. I either need to try and find a used cylinder or see if someone might have the specs on it so I can fab something up.

That also brings up the next question I guess and that is, how does the factory tilt tie into these machines? Are there possibly ports and controls already there?
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Mon, Feb 27, 2012 4:03 PM
Old 3T lover
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Counting my childhood experiences with dozers, I operated dozers for 30 years without a tilt cylinder. You have to use your head and think but it can be done. A D7E should have at least one threaded blade strut that isn't welded solid. Just drop one corner a couple of rounds and operate to that side....then drop it the other way and operate to that side to pro-rate the wear.

Most of my experience before age 40 was with cable blades and no tilt cylinder. If you don't know what you're missing, it doesn't matter much.
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Mon, Feb 27, 2012 6:56 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old 3T lover:
Counting my childhood experiences with dozers, I operated dozers for 30 years without a tilt cylinder. You have to use your head and think but it can be done. A D7E should have at least one threaded blade strut that isn't welded solid. Just drop one corner a couple of rounds and operate to that side....then drop it the other way and operate to that side to pro-rate the wear.

Most of my experience before age 40 was with cable blades and no tilt cylinder. If you don't know what you're missing, it doesn't matter much.
Get the hydraulic control serial number off the hydraulic tank and post. That will tell what arrangement it has.
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Mon, Feb 27, 2012 10:54 PM
Ray54
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Get the hydraulic control serial number off the hydraulic tank and post. That will tell what arrangement it has.
There are some very lite duty home made tilt cylinders in my area, were there are big trees and rock,most have lived longer than I would expect.Most anything you fab would probably get by as it sounds like not the worst of conditions you will be working in.But the simplest is buy a used cylinder from a used parts dealer.General Gear in Colorado would be a good place to start.As you are looking for something to us rather than a restoration think outside the box.
Ray
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Mon, Feb 27, 2012 11:24 PM
bobby1
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Reply to Ray54:
There are some very lite duty home made tilt cylinders in my area, were there are big trees and rock,most have lived longer than I would expect.Most anything you fab would probably get by as it sounds like not the worst of conditions you will be working in.But the simplest is buy a used cylinder from a used parts dealer.General Gear in Colorado would be a good place to start.As you are looking for something to us rather than a restoration think outside the box.
Ray
The thing I notice about the tilt cylinder is the larger than normal bore to rod ratio which increases holding power. Short stroke so as not to over travel and damage something. I an just not sure how much force I would have to deal with at the blade so hard to calculate what is needed exactly. Not even sure what pressures that system operate at but I will assume about 2000psi.
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Tue, Feb 28, 2012 12:43 AM
bobby1
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Reply to bobby1:
The thing I notice about the tilt cylinder is the larger than normal bore to rod ratio which increases holding power. Short stroke so as not to over travel and damage something. I an just not sure how much force I would have to deal with at the blade so hard to calculate what is needed exactly. Not even sure what pressures that system operate at but I will assume about 2000psi.
IF I have this right, 65G2300. This was on the hydro tank. I hope that is the right one.
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Tue, Feb 28, 2012 1:24 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to bobby1:
IF I have this right, 65G2300. This was on the hydro tank. I hope that is the right one.
That's the number.....but the 65G series is only a single valve model (dozer only). The vane type pump systems are pretty much limited to 1000 psi working pressure.
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Tue, Feb 28, 2012 2:03 AM
bobby1
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Reply to Old Magnet:
That's the number.....but the 65G series is only a single valve model (dozer only). The vane type pump systems are pretty much limited to 1000 psi working pressure.
I don't have one in front of me but there still have to be a way to tap into the pressure side of the pump and create outlets? Even if I had to add my own valving. I was more concerned with how I would setup the relief pressure pop off. I guess I need to look more at it.

sad to hear it would be the hard way on this machine though... I kind of figured the pressures would be low but 1000 psi is pretty lazy but I guess you don't need much on a dozer and because of how the cylinders mount, That is still nearly 20,000lbs of lift force.
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Tue, Feb 28, 2012 2:50 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to bobby1:
I don't have one in front of me but there still have to be a way to tap into the pressure side of the pump and create outlets? Even if I had to add my own valving. I was more concerned with how I would setup the relief pressure pop off. I guess I need to look more at it.

sad to hear it would be the hard way on this machine though... I kind of figured the pressures would be low but 1000 psi is pretty lazy but I guess you don't need much on a dozer and because of how the cylinders mount, That is still nearly 20,000lbs of lift force.
The one and two valve systems run off a 54 gpm pump. This is for blade and ripper or blade and tilt. The three circuit system, blade, ripper and tilt uses a two section pump, 54 gpm for the blade and ripper and a 17gpm section for the tilt.....so that should give you an idea of what the tilt circuit requires.
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Tue, Feb 28, 2012 3:49 AM
bobby1
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The one and two valve systems run off a 54 gpm pump. This is for blade and ripper or blade and tilt. The three circuit system, blade, ripper and tilt uses a two section pump, 54 gpm for the blade and ripper and a 17gpm section for the tilt.....so that should give you an idea of what the tilt circuit requires.
I was not ultra concerned about the flow rate as much as how to tap the pressure lines for this. Is the pump in the back of the machine near the valve lever? I am envisioning a valve block that is mounted right to the pump. I hope that is not the case.

Thanks for the knowledge Magnet. You are a wealth of specification data!
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Tue, Feb 28, 2012 3:55 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to bobby1:
I was not ultra concerned about the flow rate as much as how to tap the pressure lines for this. Is the pump in the back of the machine near the valve lever? I am envisioning a valve block that is mounted right to the pump. I hope that is not the case.

Thanks for the knowledge Magnet. You are a wealth of specification data!
Pump is driven from power take off drive on RH rear of engine. Controls and valves are mounted inside the reservoir tank. All you have exterior wise are lines, linkage and flanges until you get to a third valve which has external mounting. Can turn into a real bag of snakes to plumb in an external diverter valve.
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Tue, Feb 28, 2012 5:14 AM
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