d7e questions

You are one "lucky bug"!
Service manual on ebay for good price
http://www.ebay.com/itm/D-7-CATERPILLAR-SERVICE-MANUAL-/171266157502?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item27e0422bbe

Parts book
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-Caterpillar-D7-Dozer-Crawler-Tractor-Parts-Manual-47A-catalog-spare-list-OEM-/190471674372?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item2c58ff1a04
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Caterpillar-CAT-D7-Tractor-Crawler-Dozer-Direct-Drive-Parts-Manual-Book-47A-/350801424615?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item51ad64f0e7

Operator's instructions

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-Caterpillar-D7-operation-and-maintenance-instructions-47a1-up-/331146590146?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item4d19dff7c2http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-Caterpillar-D7-D7E-OPERATION-MAINTENANCE-MANUAL-TRACTOR-DOZER-47A1-UP-/371010003429?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item5661eb61e5

engage clutch = pull lever back

Hello wacuda,
You did not state if your D7E still had the starting engine or had been converted to electric start. The mistake most novice operators make with a 47A is trying to rush the starting process. If the tractor still has the original starting engine look at it's exhaust system, note that the exhaust is routed through a separate passage in the main engine intake manifold. This design uses this exhaust to heat the main engine intake for easier starting. Let the starting engine run until it is thoroughly warmed-up before engaging it with the main engine, this will greatly increase starting engine longevity and makes starting the main engine easier.
The old trick for "getting around" your clutch-brake problem is to start the main engine normally with the transmission levers in the neutral, but leave the starting engine idling after the main engine starts. Allow the main engine to warm-up, raise the blade and any implements and then shut the main engine down. With the main clutch disengaged(forward) and transmission and the direction lever(shuttle gear) in the gear desired, re-start the main engine. Operate the machine carefully shifting only the shuttle lever(you must shift quickly) until the oil in the transmission warms-up. Once the oil is warm the tractor will shift normally even with a worn clutch-brake.:cool2:

[quote="seiscat"]Hello wacuda,
You did not state if your D7E still had the starting engine or had been converted to electric start. The mistake most novice operators make with a 47A is trying to rush the starting process. If the tractor still has the original starting engine look at it's exhaust system, note that the exhaust is routed through a separate passage in the main engine intake manifold. This design uses this exhaust to heat the main engine intake for easier starting. Let the starting engine run until it is thoroughly warmed-up before engaging it with the main engine, this will greatly increase starting engine longevity and makes starting the main engine easier.
The old trick for "getting around" your clutch-brake problem is to start the main engine normally with the transmission levers in the neutral, but leave the starting engine idling after the main engine starts. Allow the main engine to warm-up, raise the blade and any implements and then shut the main engine down. With the main clutch disengaged(forward) and transmission and the direction lever(shuttle gear) in the gear desired, re-start the main engine. Operate the machine carefully shifting only the shuttle lever(you must shift quickly) until the oil in the transmission warms-up. Once the oil is warm the tractor will shift normally even with a worn clutch-brake.:cool2:[/quote]
thanks i noticed after using it for a while that i could shift from forward to reverse about 90% of the time with no grating..so its not a big issue ...but if its an easy fix id like to fix the flywheel brake...anyone here done it ????

Not a big deal, you can get a new shoe assembly 9F8979 or if the support is in good shape get a new facing 9F8976=9W3235 and rivets 6B4284 (4-req'd)

Actual facing is sintered bronze 104.9mm long, 38.1mm wide and 4.7mm thick.

Wacuda:
Question #1: the transmission, steering clutch, brake, bevel gear compartment holds 26 gallons of oil. If your level did not change after 6 gallons, maybe you are way low. Is your main engine and flywheel clutch staying at a good level? If the transmission has an external leak it should be easy to spot.

Question #2: I replaced the clutch brake lining on my 47a about 6 months ago. The rivets Cat sold me were about 1/8 or 3/16" too short. Went back and had them double check in case some shorter rivets got put in the wrong bin and they told me they were the right ones. I then took my new clutch lining and shoe/mount assembly to a local old school brake and clutch shop, and they did a jam up job of fixing me up for about $10. To remove clutch brake mount and shoe, one must remove 3@ 3/8" fine thread nuts and a cotter pin and washer as I recall. Engage clutch to keep shoe from binding against band. As a last resort you may have to disconnect the actuator linkage coming from clutch to completely free things up for removal. It was one of the easier things I have done to my machine, and detailed instructions on adjusting it are in service manual.

Good luck.

[quote="cab"]Wacuda:
Question #1: the transmission, steering clutch, brake, bevel gear compartment holds 26 gallons of oil. If your level did not change after 6 gallons, maybe you are way low. Is your main engine and flywheel clutch staying at a good level? If the transmission has an external leak it should be easy to spot.

Question #2: I replaced the clutch brake lining on my 47a about 6 months ago. The rivets Cat sold me were about 1/8 or 3/16" too short. Went back and had them double check in case some shorter rivets got put in the wrong bin and they told me they were the right ones. I then took my new clutch lining and shoe/mount assembly to a local old school brake and clutch shop, and they did a jam up job of fixing me up for about $10. To remove clutch brake mount and shoe, one must remove 3@ 3/8" fine thread nuts and a cotter pin and washer as I recall. Engage clutch to keep shoe from binding against band. As a last resort you may have to disconnect the actuator linkage coming from clutch to completely free things up for removal. It was one of the easier things I have done to my machine, and detailed instructions on adjusting it are in service manual.

Good luck.[/quote]

i reckon flywheel oil is too high...can trans oil get into flywheel compartment?...eng oil is good...im not sure if previous owner overfilled flywheel compartment or its gaining oil...thanks for your input