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d7e no compression

d7e no compression

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wacuda
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hi guys..i parked my d7e 47a stick shift dozer away last year...it was running beautifully...i let it idle down for 5 mins..turned it off ..covered the exhaust...fast forward to now and i went to start it but no go..it seems to have lost compression on all 4 pots and gained a sump full of water...its not the decomp linkage as i checked that...when i engage the pony and flick the decomp lever it spins over easy as...before i used to be able to feel the resistance of compression thru the pony handle..but now nothing...i tried aerostart and it wont even cough...so i squirted oil into the turbo and aerostart & it tried to go but as soon as the oil was gone no go..im thinking stuck rings from the water in the sump...any clues? also any ideas on what a piston & liner kit costs & fitting tips...many thanks
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Wed, Dec 26, 2018 8:47 AM
Old Magnet
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Covered the exhaust with what??
Have you rolled the engine over and checked valve operation?
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Wed, Dec 26, 2018 12:53 PM
steeltracs
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Covered the exhaust with what??
Have you rolled the engine over and checked valve operation?
I suspect that water got into exhaust and the valves are now stuck open. Pull valve covers to inspect.
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Wed, Dec 26, 2018 1:07 PM
edb
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Reply to steeltracs:
I suspect that water got into exhaust and the valves are now stuck open. Pull valve covers to inspect.
Hi Team,
if you had water in the sump it is possible that condensation has rusted the guides/valves as suggested.
On these engines the rocker arms act upon a sleeve and then the valve stem. The sleeve runs in a cast iron guide and so seizure can occur here too. This will show as excessive valve lash if the valve is not seated fully.
As suggested above the exhaust is the most likely source of entry and so the valves could be seized in their guides in a slightly open position.
Gently roll the engine over and listen in both the exhaust and the inlet manifolds for signs of compression leakage.
Or with the engine set on TDC compression stroke on say 1&4 you can remove the injectors and improvise an air line to pressurize the cylinder and listen for air escaping in volume.

If water did not enter the engine via the exhaust then you next need to determine where the water entered--corrosion hole in a precombustion chamber or a liner are other usual suspects if the cooling system has not been maintained with coolant additives.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Wed, Dec 26, 2018 3:32 PM
Rome K/G
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
if you had water in the sump it is possible that condensation has rusted the guides/valves as suggested.
On these engines the rocker arms act upon a sleeve and then the valve stem. The sleeve runs in a cast iron guide and so seizure can occur here too. This will show as excessive valve lash if the valve is not seated fully.
As suggested above the exhaust is the most likely source of entry and so the valves could be seized in their guides in a slightly open position.
Gently roll the engine over and listen in both the exhaust and the inlet manifolds for signs of compression leakage.
Or with the engine set on TDC compression stroke on say 1&4 you can remove the injectors and improvise an air line to pressurize the cylinder and listen for air escaping in volume.

If water did not enter the engine via the exhaust then you next need to determine where the water entered--corrosion hole in a precombustion chamber or a liner are other usual suspects if the cooling system has not been maintained with coolant additives.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
I have seen engines/tractors sit out in the weather with no hood, rain water and snow build up on the rocker covers, if the seals are bad or gone on the rocker cover caps around the studs then the moisture goes right into the top of the heads and into the engine.
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Wed, Dec 26, 2018 10:22 PM
Cdcompton
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Reply to Rome K/G:
I have seen engines/tractors sit out in the weather with no hood, rain water and snow build up on the rocker covers, if the seals are bad or gone on the rocker cover caps around the studs then the moisture goes right into the top of the heads and into the engine.
Also you might do a coolant leak down test. There is a test port right on top of your water pump you can charge with 10 psi. i believe an inframe kit is around $2700. charles at regal has been great to work with if you need any parts for that dozer 800-824-2164. my d7e is getting a new motor right now if you have questions i got a parts book and service manual i would be happy to help
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Thu, Dec 27, 2018 11:40 PM
wacuda
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Reply to Cdcompton:
Also you might do a coolant leak down test. There is a test port right on top of your water pump you can charge with 10 psi. i believe an inframe kit is around $2700. charles at regal has been great to work with if you need any parts for that dozer 800-824-2164. my d7e is getting a new motor right now if you have questions i got a parts book and service manual i would be happy to help

Hi guys ..i have checked the valves and they are not stuck and are working fine with the right valve clearance...the rocker gear is covered with rust but is still working fine...the tractor was in a shed with the ex covered..it seems to have no compression at all...the oil level has risen an inch with water and the radiator has dropped its level..so water is getting in from rad to sump...i am about to pull the heads...is it better to get at rod bolts thru sump or side plates...thanks
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Fri, Dec 28, 2018 7:50 AM
Andrew
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Reply to wacuda:

Hi guys ..i have checked the valves and they are not stuck and are working fine with the right valve clearance...the rocker gear is covered with rust but is still working fine...the tractor was in a shed with the ex covered..it seems to have no compression at all...the oil level has risen an inch with water and the radiator has dropped its level..so water is getting in from rad to sump...i am about to pull the heads...is it better to get at rod bolts thru sump or side plates...thanks
Go in through the side plates. As difficult as that can be . It is easier than removing belly plate and sump .

I would investigate more before dismantling. Is the compression release rod up the correct way. A problem with the water would expect to effect only 1 cylinder.
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Fri, Dec 28, 2018 10:37 AM
wacuda
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Reply to Andrew:
Go in through the side plates. As difficult as that can be . It is easier than removing belly plate and sump .

I would investigate more before dismantling. Is the compression release rod up the correct way. A problem with the water would expect to effect only 1 cylinder.
[quote="Andrew"]Go in through the side plates. As difficult as that can be . It is easier than removing belly plate and sump .

I would investigate more before dismantling. Is the compression release rod up the correct way. A problem with the water would expect to effect only 1 cylinder.[/quote]

that is what i cant work out..it seems to have no compression at all on any cylinders...when i put oil in turbo intake and heaps or aerostart i could get it to run while spraying constantly but as soon as the oil was gone it stopped...it must have rusted the rings on all 4 pots...i would swear it feels like it hasnt even got pistons in there,,
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Fri, Dec 28, 2018 9:57 PM
Rome K/G
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Reply to wacuda:
[quote="Andrew"]Go in through the side plates. As difficult as that can be . It is easier than removing belly plate and sump .

I would investigate more before dismantling. Is the compression release rod up the correct way. A problem with the water would expect to effect only 1 cylinder.[/quote]

that is what i cant work out..it seems to have no compression at all on any cylinders...when i put oil in turbo intake and heaps or aerostart i could get it to run while spraying constantly but as soon as the oil was gone it stopped...it must have rusted the rings on all 4 pots...i would swear it feels like it hasnt even got pistons in there,,
When you turn it over can you hear any hissing noise in the exhaust outlet or intake? I would recheck the valves first. Pull the rocker covers and see if there is clearance on the compression release.
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Fri, Dec 28, 2018 10:16 PM
wacuda
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Reply to Rome K/G:
When you turn it over can you hear any hissing noise in the exhaust outlet or intake? I would recheck the valves first. Pull the rocker covers and see if there is clearance on the compression release.

there is no hissing from anyvalves..the decomp is working fine and when its off all the intake valves are shutting..all the valves have clearance and they seem to be working in time..i did get it to run for about 20 seconds after i gave it a guts full of oil and half a can of aerostart...but as soon as it burnt the oil it stopped and would not restart...i hve tried for 2 full tanks of fuel thru the pony to get a cough out of it but nothing...im thinking it must have broken all the rings but why?
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Sat, Dec 29, 2018 7:39 AM
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