D7E engine trouble

The oil in the turbo may be diesel from the misfiring cylinder mixing with soot in the exhaust. Usually the inlet side is easiest to get loose but take something off and look in the turbo, spin it etc and then decide.

We bought a used 48a a few years ago. Know it had some blow-by but it seemed to run well enough. After a couple hundred hours it had deteriorated to the point of no longer getting much done with it. Tore it down and discovered broken rings and severely damaged pistons in two cylinders but one really bad. We could see the rust marks on those sleeves where it had been lightly stuck at some point in the past, so I think that was the most likely start of the problem.

If it huffs when you take off the oil fill cap with the engine running, you may be dealing with something similar.

Convention is cylinders are numbered from the fan end of the engine toward the clutch end.

I guess I would start by checking valve operation and clearances but if nothing found there it may be time to pull a head for a look. You could install the injector line for the bad cylinder so it sticks out over the track and put an injector on it just to eliminate the pump being the source of the problem. Tighten the adapter to the line with a wrench, but the injector capsule should be only gently tightened because the threads are not designed to stand it. Turn the engine over and watch the spray pattern to see if it delivers and atomizes the fuel.

I would do a leak down test before pu!!ing head.

Planning on doing that tomorrow night.

Never had any blow by before I didn’t check
It after this started.

We had a 14A that sat for 3 years back in the 70's when fuel was dark, it would not run until we swapped out the fuel, not sure about the shelf life of modern fuel, maybe someone here knows and can comment.

Fuel storage recommendations are ignored here most all the time....

I would start with a fuel swap first, you could pump or siphon it into 55 gal drum and save it in case that's not the issue. Drain the filter housing too. If the machine sat 10 years who knows what the total age of the fuel would be, it could have been old when it was put in the tank.

Yea im leaning toward draining it all just to be on the safe side. I will check compression and leak down if that comes back good then im going to drain all the fuel and start fresh.

Disconnect the fuel line and hook up a clean 5 gal can , after you replace the filters then bleed the injection system out good, then test run the engine .....WA7OPY

I would first check the decompression mechanism to see if it's slightly in the START position instead of the RUN position.