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D7E engine side plates??

D7E engine side plates??

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Raeme
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Hi. After the old girl decided on Thursday to put 15lt of water into number 1 and 2. I have pulled the heads etc and found number 1 to be in pretty ordinary shape. So Im pulling the pistons now, I’m intending on replacing number 1 and re ringing all pistons and dingle balling the liners. After reading the service manual I reckon I can access them with the side plates and the 2 plates on either side off sump. Either way it’s not that much more time to try, if I can’t then I’ll drop the sump. So on the back plate there is an Oil pump?? Under the filter held with 4 bolts. Do you just drop off it’s pipes and undo the bolts and take it first before plate? Or does it come with the plate? Thanks
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ccjersey
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Went and looked at ours. The frame is about a foot away and it is really deep from top to bottom. Not a sort of a compact I beam like the older tractors, so it really gets in the way.

I wouldn't even take the covers off the side of the engine, just a waste of time. Drop the belly pan and oil pan. Getting the rear section out over the hard bar was impossible until we unbolted the engine on all 4 corners and raised it in the frame. If you disconnect things up front and lift the front more than the rear you can avoid disconnecting everything in the torque converter area ( lots of big oil lines back there as I remember Probably should disconnect and raise the whole frame with the engine bolted in it instead of the way we did it, but it worked ok. I think we had a Jack under the torque converter housing in the back and i watched everything from under there as we hoisted the front of the engine with a hoist from a post across the top of the limb risers. We lifted it so it hinged on the u-joint of the drive shaft.....like I said, more in the front than in the back.

You might even be able to do the job on #4 rod by letting that rear section of the oil pan drop down as far as possible without actually removing it. I was replacing the main bearings as well, so it really had to come out.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Raeme
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Reply to ccjersey:
Went and looked at ours. The frame is about a foot away and it is really deep from top to bottom. Not a sort of a compact I beam like the older tractors, so it really gets in the way.

I wouldn't even take the covers off the side of the engine, just a waste of time. Drop the belly pan and oil pan. Getting the rear section out over the hard bar was impossible until we unbolted the engine on all 4 corners and raised it in the frame. If you disconnect things up front and lift the front more than the rear you can avoid disconnecting everything in the torque converter area ( lots of big oil lines back there as I remember Probably should disconnect and raise the whole frame with the engine bolted in it instead of the way we did it, but it worked ok. I think we had a Jack under the torque converter housing in the back and i watched everything from under there as we hoisted the front of the engine with a hoist from a post across the top of the limb risers. We lifted it so it hinged on the u-joint of the drive shaft.....like I said, more in the front than in the back.

You might even be able to do the job on #4 rod by letting that rear section of the oil pan drop down as far as possible without actually removing it. I was replacing the main bearings as well, so it really had to come out.
Hi Mate. Thanks for the reply. Yes I did notice how close the frame was. What your saying makes sense. Mine is a DD model so might even be a touch easier to jack up. So you dropped out the bolts right at the front then the 4 back near the dash area where they mount on the chassis? Looks like I’ve only got to lift maybe couple of inches? I dropped the belly pan yesterday arv so it’s already out of the way. Cheers
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ccjersey
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Yes. Takes just a minute with an impact wrench to get all 4 corners loose. Lots of small stuff up front by the fan shroud and oil cooler hose at bottom left front at least on a power shift. It doesn't take a lot to get the pan out over the bar, but we left the driveshaft connected, so we had to lift the front more to let it rotate up, pivoting on the u-joint.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Raeme
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Reply to ccjersey:
Yes. Takes just a minute with an impact wrench to get all 4 corners loose. Lots of small stuff up front by the fan shroud and oil cooler hose at bottom left front at least on a power shift. It doesn't take a lot to get the pan out over the bar, but we left the driveshaft connected, so we had to lift the front more to let it rotate up, pivoting on the u-joint.
Hi Mate. I’ve dropped the engine mount bolts out. Made a huge mess with the hydraulic side but it’s all good. Lubricant for the chains. Question is. How in hell did you get the sump past what I can assume is the oil pump? The way it’s shaping up is I nearly have to pull the engine out. I can not see how I’m going to get the engine high enough too clear? I ended up undoing the side plate on 1 and 2 and I’m pretty well thinking a couple of extension bars and a uni joint adaptor will do the job on the Conrod nuts. Cheers
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ccjersey
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You're talking about the rear section of the pan right? When I saw it was made in two sections, I was sure it would be easy to get it out, but the rear section wouldn't come out over the hard bar no matter what I tried. So we had to lift the engine to get the clearance.

Sounds like you may have a single piece pan?
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Raeme
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Reply to ccjersey:
You're talking about the rear section of the pan right? When I saw it was made in two sections, I was sure it would be easy to get it out, but the rear section wouldn't come out over the hard bar no matter what I tried. So we had to lift the engine to get the clearance.

Sounds like you may have a single piece pan?
Hi Mate. Thanks for replying. Yes I’ve got the one piece. looks like I can’t physically get the engine high enough while still in the tractor to get the clearance for an appropriate angle of the sump to clear the oil pump? I can see how a two piece one would be easier yes. Was the one you removed a two piece? Thankyou.
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ccjersey
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Yes
2 pieces, a joint in it just at the cross member/hard bar.
Sorry to have given you bad info to try lifting the engine.

I guess if you can't do it through the side plates, you will have to unbolt the hold down and raise the whole front of the tractor off the hard bar.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Raeme
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Reply to ccjersey:
Yes
2 pieces, a joint in it just at the cross member/hard bar.
Sorry to have given you bad info to try lifting the engine.

I guess if you can't do it through the side plates, you will have to unbolt the hold down and raise the whole front of the tractor off the hard bar.
Nothing to apologise for Mate. I appreciate you taking the time. I’m going to jump under it today and reassess. Cheers
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