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D7E coolant heater

D7E coolant heater

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poor farmer/logger
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Well, still waiting to do those pressure test on my D7. Yes I know kind of behind time lol.. but we were so busy this fall with our sawmill that we didn't even have time to turn around. Then when that slowed down it turned to -30 just about everyday. Can't seem to win. But they're saying things are maybe going to be looking up.

So that leads me to a new question in getting the ol girl going again. The plan is to hook up a webasto heater to it. Only problem is there's no place to draw the water from. I was told to take off a cover by the starter and I could get into the water jacket there. But the only cover I see is the one right above the starter that looks like a inspection cover. Do you take it off and drill and tap it?? Or what is the deal. There is a plug welded in on the water manifold so I can put the water back in there, just need to get it out somewhere. Hoping to get some clearer advice. Most of you guys probably don't run into this problem though unlike up here in the frozen north. Same problems as KoO.


Thanks Ryan
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Fri, Jan 9, 2009 11:59 AM
Old Magnet
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Is that a tank type heater?
You will need two circuits....one below and one above the thermostats in order to include the radiator. Use a tee or Y.
Return connection (3/4 plug) on the water pump inlet piping is already there.
Does your tractor have the horizontal or vertical thermostat flange mounting on the water manifold?
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Sat, Jan 10, 2009 4:51 AM
poor farmer/logger
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Is that a tank type heater?
You will need two circuits....one below and one above the thermostats in order to include the radiator. Use a tee or Y.
Return connection (3/4 plug) on the water pump inlet piping is already there.
Does your tractor have the horizontal or vertical thermostat flange mounting on the water manifold?
The heater is diesel fired and has a circulating pump on it. It's kind of like a oil furnace but there's coolant pumped threw the inside of it instead of air. It's a unit that normally bolts onto the side of a truck or machine and draws diesel fuel from the tank and runs off the machines battery. I just need to heat the engine including the rad would take a long long time to heat up. I need to draw coolant out from the bottom of the motor and return it into the top. I've got a spot that I can put it back into the motor but need a place to draw from yet. To get it to circulate threw the engine properly I need to go back into the heads and pull the hot water down threw the outlet.

The thremostat sits horizontally I believe. But I'd have to look again though to be sure.

Here's a link to the heater for anyone interested or to see what it actually is. They're actually very slick little units, you can get a 7 day timer for them so when you get to the job in the morning your machine is allready warmed up for you. They're meant to be staionary units but I'm pretty certain it wouldn't last long with all the vibrations and shaking on the 7. Going to set this one up so it's portable so we can use it on our skidder as well. Something else I'm not to sure it would fare well on otherwise.

http://www.webasto.us/press/en/am_trucks_heaters_823.html


Ryan
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Sat, Jan 10, 2009 6:52 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to poor farmer/logger:
The heater is diesel fired and has a circulating pump on it. It's kind of like a oil furnace but there's coolant pumped threw the inside of it instead of air. It's a unit that normally bolts onto the side of a truck or machine and draws diesel fuel from the tank and runs off the machines battery. I just need to heat the engine including the rad would take a long long time to heat up. I need to draw coolant out from the bottom of the motor and return it into the top. I've got a spot that I can put it back into the motor but need a place to draw from yet. To get it to circulate threw the engine properly I need to go back into the heads and pull the hot water down threw the outlet.

The thremostat sits horizontally I believe. But I'd have to look again though to be sure.

Here's a link to the heater for anyone interested or to see what it actually is. They're actually very slick little units, you can get a 7 day timer for them so when you get to the job in the morning your machine is allready warmed up for you. They're meant to be staionary units but I'm pretty certain it wouldn't last long with all the vibrations and shaking on the 7. Going to set this one up so it's portable so we can use it on our skidder as well. Something else I'm not to sure it would fare well on otherwise.

http://www.webasto.us/press/en/am_trucks_heaters_823.html


Ryan
Interesting unit......do you know the prices?
If it's just the engine you want to heat then take suction from that 3/4 pipe tap on the water pump suction line and if you have the horizontal mount thermostats there is a plug on the bottom of the thermostat housing for supply flow. Seeing as how the heater has it's own circ pump you could also reverse these connections and not have to depend on thermo-syphon operation.
If this unit puts out enough heat it might open the thermostats for complete circuit heating.
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Sat, Jan 10, 2009 8:36 AM
dratt
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Interesting unit......do you know the prices?
If it's just the engine you want to heat then take suction from that 3/4 pipe tap on the water pump suction line and if you have the horizontal mount thermostats there is a plug on the bottom of the thermostat housing for supply flow. Seeing as how the heater has it's own circ pump you could also reverse these connections and not have to depend on thermo-syphon operation.
If this unit puts out enough heat it might open the thermostats for complete circuit heating.
If you have found a spot to hook it up on the back of the motor. Then I think you could draw the water back around form the bottom of the radiator housing. Most of these have 3/4 or 1/2" pipe plug on the bottom of the radiator for draining. Install a hydraulic coupler or a 300 series water coupler with a check valve. Connect up some Pec's tubing or hydraulic lines to your hydronic heater to circulate hot water thru the machine. I have an outdoor wood burning stove that is set up with antifreeze. I am planning on running some flexible lines from the hydronic manifold to the some quick disconnects on the dozer to warm the whole thing up. I cannot imagine working in -30 I thought it was just about impossible working in -20.... good luck😄
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Sat, Jan 10, 2009 9:11 AM
poor farmer/logger
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Reply to dratt:
If you have found a spot to hook it up on the back of the motor. Then I think you could draw the water back around form the bottom of the radiator housing. Most of these have 3/4 or 1/2" pipe plug on the bottom of the radiator for draining. Install a hydraulic coupler or a 300 series water coupler with a check valve. Connect up some Pec's tubing or hydraulic lines to your hydronic heater to circulate hot water thru the machine. I have an outdoor wood burning stove that is set up with antifreeze. I am planning on running some flexible lines from the hydronic manifold to the some quick disconnects on the dozer to warm the whole thing up. I cannot imagine working in -30 I thought it was just about impossible working in -20.... good luck😄
Okay, thanks guys. Gona have to take a look in the daylight again and see what all is there.

The spot that has been fabricated up is right in between the two heads in the water manifold itself. They've drilled a hole and welded in a half inch pipe thread plug. That's where I was planing on putting it into the motor to try and make sure that it warmed both heads.

Usually just sit in the house when it gets that cold.lol.. Suposed to be a balmy 16F tomorow. Weather man had my hopes up though and is letting me down now for the begening of the week. Was planing on trying to get it going on monday but now they're saying -10F or so again so it looks like it might still be a bit. I'm hoping it warms up enough so I can get it going and then put it in the shop to work on it. No fun at all trying to drain antifreeze at 30 below, that's for sure. The oils that I've got in the cat right now are about the same consistency as grease so that doesn't help matters any.

The price on that perticular model is right around 700 dollars us. Up here from the dealers it's a 1000 dollars canadian but I have seen them a little bit cheaper in the states. You can get them in 24 volt as well if you want to mount it on a machine. We've got one on our Volvo wheel loader but we're just hooked directly to the first battery right now though. It is causign some problems though and no one knows why. It's draining that one battery and for some reason not charging it back up again. It's only a 8 amp draw at peak power but over a week or so that one battery will go dead. Been putting in transformers now and so far seems to be solving the problems.

Ryan
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Sat, Jan 10, 2009 9:29 AM
ccjersey
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Reply to poor farmer/logger:
Okay, thanks guys. Gona have to take a look in the daylight again and see what all is there.

The spot that has been fabricated up is right in between the two heads in the water manifold itself. They've drilled a hole and welded in a half inch pipe thread plug. That's where I was planing on putting it into the motor to try and make sure that it warmed both heads.

Usually just sit in the house when it gets that cold.lol.. Suposed to be a balmy 16F tomorow. Weather man had my hopes up though and is letting me down now for the begening of the week. Was planing on trying to get it going on monday but now they're saying -10F or so again so it looks like it might still be a bit. I'm hoping it warms up enough so I can get it going and then put it in the shop to work on it. No fun at all trying to drain antifreeze at 30 below, that's for sure. The oils that I've got in the cat right now are about the same consistency as grease so that doesn't help matters any.

The price on that perticular model is right around 700 dollars us. Up here from the dealers it's a 1000 dollars canadian but I have seen them a little bit cheaper in the states. You can get them in 24 volt as well if you want to mount it on a machine. We've got one on our Volvo wheel loader but we're just hooked directly to the first battery right now though. It is causign some problems though and no one knows why. It's draining that one battery and for some reason not charging it back up again. It's only a 8 amp draw at peak power but over a week or so that one battery will go dead. Been putting in transformers now and so far seems to be solving the problems.

Ryan
Why not cut to the chase and plumb up some connections to your truck's heater hoses? 😄
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Jan 10, 2009 10:24 AM
poor farmer/logger
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Reply to ccjersey:
Why not cut to the chase and plumb up some connections to your truck's heater hoses? 😄
I just cringe every time I hear someone say that.lol.. I can't imagine what that ice cold coolant does to a nice and toasty warm head and block. I've heard of people doing it before but I just can't bring myself to do it at all.

It's actually pretty quick with the webasto heater too, at around -4 it's about half a hour to a nice and toasty warm engine. It'll bring it up to 160F in that amount of time. It's kind of nice to turn on the key and have warm air blowing before you even start it.

Ryan
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Sat, Jan 10, 2009 11:44 AM
skywagon70
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Reply to poor farmer/logger:
I just cringe every time I hear someone say that.lol.. I can't imagine what that ice cold coolant does to a nice and toasty warm head and block. I've heard of people doing it before but I just can't bring myself to do it at all.

It's actually pretty quick with the webasto heater too, at around -4 it's about half a hour to a nice and toasty warm engine. It'll bring it up to 160F in that amount of time. It's kind of nice to turn on the key and have warm air blowing before you even start it.

Ryan
i have been running a forwarder with a diesel fired preheat system on it.You just set the day and time you want it to start, leave your cab heater controls on heat setting and when you get to work you have a warm engine and cab ready to start and go to work.
Butch
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Sun, Jan 11, 2009 3:17 PM
poor farmer/logger
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Reply to skywagon70:
i have been running a forwarder with a diesel fired preheat system on it.You just set the day and time you want it to start, leave your cab heater controls on heat setting and when you get to work you have a warm engine and cab ready to start and go to work.
Butch
They're sure good for remote areas. Don't have to worry about having a gen set nearby to plug it into. I believe you can get tank heaters for them as well so you can heat up your hydraulic oil.

Does anyone know for sure where the pup motors plumed in on these ol girls? I've been around them before but have never taken note of where they hook into at all. Tried to take a peak in around the water pump but I have to take my side shields off first. It's siting in our machine shed right now so it's not any extra bright in there.

Ryan
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Mon, Jan 12, 2009 6:23 AM
Greg
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Reply to poor farmer/logger:
They're sure good for remote areas. Don't have to worry about having a gen set nearby to plug it into. I believe you can get tank heaters for them as well so you can heat up your hydraulic oil.

Does anyone know for sure where the pup motors plumed in on these ol girls? I've been around them before but have never taken note of where they hook into at all. Tried to take a peak in around the water pump but I have to take my side shields off first. It's siting in our machine shed right now so it's not any extra bright in there.

Ryan
Pony motor is fed by an elbow that comes out the side of the block from back side of pony.
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Mon, Jan 12, 2009 9:44 AM
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