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d7e brack question

d7e brack question

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dancat
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i bought a high horse 7e powershift a few months ago, to me the brakes are to hard to push, it is a lot harder to lock the tracks on it than my old 17a. after i run it about 30 minutes the covers over the brake bands get hot i beleive the 7e has wet brakes and steering clutches i was wondering how or where to check the oil level and what oil to run in them it has a winch on the back so its pretty hard to see under the tank, also the decelerator seems hard to push and doesnt seem to idle the motor down enough, any help would be great as this is my first powershit, and later model dozer im used to the old 17a and 3t dozers and so for i like them a lot better. Thanks
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Sun, Jun 1, 2008 11:07 AM
gemdozer
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I think your brak pedal rod need lubrification there are some grease fitting on
and the brake still stuck on drum and the decelerator rod too need lubrification and you should have a oil plunger for checking oil in belhousing at your right when your are on seat. GOOD LUCK

HECTOR
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Sun, Jun 1, 2008 6:35 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to gemdozer:
I think your brak pedal rod need lubrification there are some grease fitting on
and the brake still stuck on drum and the decelerator rod too need lubrification and you should have a oil plunger for checking oil in belhousing at your right when your are on seat. GOOD LUCK

HECTOR
You need to get an oil pressure check on the steering clutch and transmission hydraulic control system.
Should be plenty of boost assist and no dragging. Minimum pressure should be 265-300 psi, depending on where you check. Also check mag strainer and filter, even though they have bypass valves if blocked. Everything is fed from the main case sump and uses the same oil.
Usual problem is worn pump and/or seals.

Check your decelerator linkage for binding and if need be there is an idle adjustment screw under the cover at the base of the decelerator spring tower.
Decelerator low idle rpm should be set at approx 200 rpm above engine low idle speed.

Correction:
I was assuming the brakes were hydraulic boost assist. Not so....they are an all mechanical unit.
Adjustment procedure is to tighten down adjustment socket until band is tight then back off 1-1/2 turns. The brakes are a fairly involved system utilizing a toggle mechanism boost that needs to be set up properly and would be affected by worn parts.
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Sun, Jun 1, 2008 10:37 PM
dancat
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Reply to Old Magnet:
You need to get an oil pressure check on the steering clutch and transmission hydraulic control system.
Should be plenty of boost assist and no dragging. Minimum pressure should be 265-300 psi, depending on where you check. Also check mag strainer and filter, even though they have bypass valves if blocked. Everything is fed from the main case sump and uses the same oil.
Usual problem is worn pump and/or seals.

Check your decelerator linkage for binding and if need be there is an idle adjustment screw under the cover at the base of the decelerator spring tower.
Decelerator low idle rpm should be set at approx 200 rpm above engine low idle speed.

Correction:
I was assuming the brakes were hydraulic boost assist. Not so....they are an all mechanical unit.
Adjustment procedure is to tighten down adjustment socket until band is tight then back off 1-1/2 turns. The brakes are a fairly involved system utilizing a toggle mechanism boost that needs to be set up properly and would be affected by worn parts.
thanks for the info, i will check it out. on the decelarator,
do you have to take the cover off to get to the idle screw?
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Tue, Jun 3, 2008 3:49 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to dancat:
thanks for the info, i will check it out. on the decelarator,
do you have to take the cover off to get to the idle screw?
Yes. cover has to be removed to access the idle adjustment.
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Tue, Jun 3, 2008 9:17 PM
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