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D7E 48A lift cylinder bearing sleeve replacement

D7E 48A lift cylinder bearing sleeve replacement

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westoz48a
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Hi all,i am needing to replace a sleeve bearing on one of my lift cylinders as the sleeve is missing as explained on one of my previous posts.I have the correct bearings and caps thanks to helpful members on here,so my question is what is the best way to heatshrink the sleeve onto the trunnion of the cylinder.The other sleeves have been cut first to help expand them and then i guess,just hammered on,just wondered if i could do the same instead of heating the sleeve first and maybe having trouble if it cools down too quick.I have a blow torch and temperature gun so just wondering what the best procedure is to install the bearing onto the trunnion,
thanks.
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Mon, Jun 18, 2018 8:29 PM
dpendzic
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I don't think cutting the sleeve is the best way to go---heat the sleeve to expand it and cool down the trunnion, lubricate the trunnion and you should have no trouble tapping it on
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Mon, Jun 18, 2018 9:13 PM
neil
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Reply to dpendzic:
I don't think cutting the sleeve is the best way to go---heat the sleeve to expand it and cool down the trunnion, lubricate the trunnion and you should have no trouble tapping it on
And ideally heat it in your toaster oven so that the heat is even. Bearing manufacturers say don't heat over 250F but if your sleeve is steel, you can take it to 350F no problem. Test fit it at 250 by hand (gloved!) - if it doesn't just slide easily on there, don't hit it on. Pull it back off and heat it up to 350 and then have your helper maintain temps with your blowtorch at a distance.
Make up a nice mandrel so you can tap it on nice and square without bellowing it out and then a slightly oversize driving sleeve to finish placing it. Work quickly!
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Mon, Jun 18, 2018 11:09 PM
edb
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Reply to neil:
And ideally heat it in your toaster oven so that the heat is even. Bearing manufacturers say don't heat over 250F but if your sleeve is steel, you can take it to 350F no problem. Test fit it at 250 by hand (gloved!) - if it doesn't just slide easily on there, don't hit it on. Pull it back off and heat it up to 350 and then have your helper maintain temps with your blowtorch at a distance.
Make up a nice mandrel so you can tap it on nice and square without bellowing it out and then a slightly oversize driving sleeve to finish placing it. Work quickly!
Hi Team,
here is an article on said subject.
Hope it helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Tue, Jun 19, 2018 5:32 AM
ccjersey
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I usually use oil bath. I don't have one, but have heard of shops that have a dedicated deep fat fryer appliance so they can set the temperature and it will thermostatically control it.
I usually wind up using a torch heating the bottom of a metal can!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Jun 19, 2018 8:30 AM
westoz48a
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Reply to ccjersey:
I usually use oil bath. I don't have one, but have heard of shops that have a dedicated deep fat fryer appliance so they can set the temperature and it will thermostatically control it.
I usually wind up using a torch heating the bottom of a metal can!
Thanks for everyone's advice,i did have a go today at installing the bearing with not much luck,i did heat it up to what i thought was hot enough but only slipped on a little and could see there was no way of fitting it without the right gear,i did manage to get it off again(luckily not too far on)and have gone with the other option of cutting the sleeve the same as all the other fitted sleeves on the trunnions.Maybe not the right way to do it but i need the dozer going as soon as i can to do some work and i figure the other sleeves have stayed on for some time so it will work short term.
regards John.
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Tue, Jun 19, 2018 4:54 PM
DPete
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Reply to westoz48a:
Thanks for everyone's advice,i did have a go today at installing the bearing with not much luck,i did heat it up to what i thought was hot enough but only slipped on a little and could see there was no way of fitting it without the right gear,i did manage to get it off again(luckily not too far on)and have gone with the other option of cutting the sleeve the same as all the other fitted sleeves on the trunnions.Maybe not the right way to do it but i need the dozer going as soon as i can to do some work and i figure the other sleeves have stayed on for some time so it will work short term.
regards John.
It sounds crude but if you spit on your finger and touch the race real fast and it sizzles that's hot enough, if no sizzle then it needs more heat. Old time mechanic taught me that so that's how I've always done it.
1962 D4C
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Tue, Jun 19, 2018 9:50 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to DPete:
It sounds crude but if you spit on your finger and touch the race real fast and it sizzles that's hot enough, if no sizzle then it needs more heat. Old time mechanic taught me that so that's how I've always done it.
Freezing the trunnion will help a lot also
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Wed, Jun 20, 2018 2:23 AM
catsilver
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Reply to dpendzic:
Freezing the trunnion will help a lot also
I can't understand the problem, this is only a small bearing, its not very tight, clean up the spigot, carefully set it up square, use a driver that fits all round the bearing sleeve, preferably mild steel. and drive it on with a hammer.
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Wed, Jun 20, 2018 2:39 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to catsilver:
I can't understand the problem, this is only a small bearing, its not very tight, clean up the spigot, carefully set it up square, use a driver that fits all round the bearing sleeve, preferably mild steel. and drive it on with a hammer.
Get a big hammer and drive it on Pyle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Wed, Jun 20, 2018 4:32 AM
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