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D7e 47a water pump seal problem

D7e 47a water pump seal problem

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au7edd
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In my parts book, all of the various serial numbers have a nut holding the impeller on. My parts book goes from 1 to 2894. Mine does not. It has a 1/2" headed bolt. Has my pump shaft been modified or do i have an aftermarket shaft?
Another problem i have been having is with pump seals. I got nearly 700 hrs out of the first one i put in, 150 out of the second & only 70 out of the last one. What am i missing? The shaft bearings were replaced about 200 hrs ago & there is no slack in it. I got a new impeller this time. I thought maybe the old one may have become a little warped. The shaft below where the impeller sits has become quite rough and a little pockmarked.
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Thu, Jul 10, 2014 6:12 AM
ccjersey
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48A6393-up also shows a nut holding the impeller on the tapered shaft. There is a bolt on the other end holding the bearing and gear on.

It's possible that someone fixed a shaft with a stripped thread by boring and threading it.

The seal should not be affected by the rough shaft surface as long as the ceramic??? seat is attached to the impeller rear face like it is supposed to be. I have reattached the seat when it had come loose and gotten good service out of it. I have also seen impellers with the seat missing and the carbon seal running directly on the cast iron impeller. With the missing thickness of the seat, the seal couldn't last as long as normal since the spring and bellows assembly has only a limited travel.

What do the failed seals look like? I remember one on a 9U tractor that had apparently stuck and cracked the carbon ring when the engine was started up after an extended period of storage (sitting in field).
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Jul 10, 2014 7:52 AM
farmerfred
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Reply to ccjersey:
48A6393-up also shows a nut holding the impeller on the tapered shaft. There is a bolt on the other end holding the bearing and gear on.

It's possible that someone fixed a shaft with a stripped thread by boring and threading it.

The seal should not be affected by the rough shaft surface as long as the ceramic??? seat is attached to the impeller rear face like it is supposed to be. I have reattached the seat when it had come loose and gotten good service out of it. I have also seen impellers with the seat missing and the carbon seal running directly on the cast iron impeller. With the missing thickness of the seat, the seal couldn't last as long as normal since the spring and bellows assembly has only a limited travel.

What do the failed seals look like? I remember one on a 9U tractor that had apparently stuck and cracked the carbon ring when the engine was started up after an extended period of storage (sitting in field).
I have a D7e 47a - 874. A few years back, the water pump started to leak on my 7e I took it apart and the ceramic seal looked rough,
so I just bought the new bellows and seal. I put them in and everything was fine for about 15 or 20 hours, and it started to leak again.
I took it apart, thinking I had made a mistake, because the local Cat Shop told me "no one fixes water pumps; they just buy a rebuilt",
so that's what I did the next time. That lasted about 10 hours and started to leak. So I rebuilt the rebuilt and it lasted a very few hours
and the ceramic seal looked rough on all of them when I took them apart. The local independent equipment mechanic came up with the
idea of draining everything -- the block and flushing it with water and acid -- with a leaking pump on it -- and then replace the ceramic
seal and put new coolant in it. It fixed the problem -- it's been on my Cat for several years and it hasn't bothered since. I don't know
what was in the coolant, but that must have been the problem.
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Fri, Jul 11, 2014 6:50 AM
Ray54
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Reply to ccjersey:
48A6393-up also shows a nut holding the impeller on the tapered shaft. There is a bolt on the other end holding the bearing and gear on.

It's possible that someone fixed a shaft with a stripped thread by boring and threading it.

The seal should not be affected by the rough shaft surface as long as the ceramic??? seat is attached to the impeller rear face like it is supposed to be. I have reattached the seat when it had come loose and gotten good service out of it. I have also seen impellers with the seat missing and the carbon seal running directly on the cast iron impeller. With the missing thickness of the seat, the seal couldn't last as long as normal since the spring and bellows assembly has only a limited travel.

What do the failed seals look like? I remember one on a 9U tractor that had apparently stuck and cracked the carbon ring when the engine was started up after an extended period of storage (sitting in field).
Is your cooling system being pressurized by gases coming by the pre combustion chambers ? Have had this with a 9u pushing water by the water pump seal because the over flow is rusted up and not letting the pressure escape.
Ray
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Fri, Jul 11, 2014 6:53 AM
rjh-md
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Reply to Ray54:
Is your cooling system being pressurized by gases coming by the pre combustion chambers ? Have had this with a 9u pushing water by the water pump seal because the over flow is rusted up and not letting the pressure escape.
Ray
You probably have a comtiminated cooling system .I saw that problem yrs ago .Tractors working in dusty conditions drew dirt into the system at the relief valve on top of the raditor . there,s a 1/4 " hole at the relief valve and dirt builds up in the hole as the tractor cools down in the evening. The water in the cooling system contracts ,the relief valve opens drawing in air and a small amout of dirt lodged in the hole day after day same thing happens adding dirt to the system .
Check the valve and you will find fine dirt in the relief valve hole and in the releif valve itself . I used to drill out and tap the hole to 1/4 pt thread ,and install a 90 degree elblow ,and a plastic filter that was used on the rear case as a vent for the steering clutches
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Fri, Jul 11, 2014 7:53 AM
au7edd
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Reply to rjh-md:
You probably have a comtiminated cooling system .I saw that problem yrs ago .Tractors working in dusty conditions drew dirt into the system at the relief valve on top of the raditor . there,s a 1/4 " hole at the relief valve and dirt builds up in the hole as the tractor cools down in the evening. The water in the cooling system contracts ,the relief valve opens drawing in air and a small amout of dirt lodged in the hole day after day same thing happens adding dirt to the system .
Check the valve and you will find fine dirt in the relief valve hole and in the releif valve itself . I used to drill out and tap the hole to 1/4 pt thread ,and install a 90 degree elblow ,and a plastic filter that was used on the rear case as a vent for the steering clutches
I'll have a look at the relief valve today. There might be something in that. I have bars leaks in the system as the bottom of the radiator is rusting out, but i've had that stuff in for years. The seal this time looked ok. good enough to seal anyway. The last two times there was a chunk taken out of the smaller black ring & last time a big scratch mark on it. Not letting out pressure might be forcing gunk between the seal.
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Fri, Jul 11, 2014 11:03 AM
au7edd
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Reply to au7edd:
I'll have a look at the relief valve today. There might be something in that. I have bars leaks in the system as the bottom of the radiator is rusting out, but i've had that stuff in for years. The seal this time looked ok. good enough to seal anyway. The last two times there was a chunk taken out of the smaller black ring & last time a big scratch mark on it. Not letting out pressure might be forcing gunk between the seal.
The water becomes very rusty and dirty almost straight away. I've often thought about a flush out. What sort of acid mix did you clean it out with? Is the water in your radiator clear now?
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Fri, Jul 11, 2014 11:08 AM
au7edd
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Reply to au7edd:
The water becomes very rusty and dirty almost straight away. I've often thought about a flush out. What sort of acid mix did you clean it out with? Is the water in your radiator clear now?
thankyou for the information on the relief valve. Both outlets were chocka block full of hard packed mud & i suspect i will get a long run out of this seal. cheers
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Sat, Jul 19, 2014 5:27 AM
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