Reply to ccjersey:
48A6393-up also shows a nut holding the impeller on the tapered shaft. There is a bolt on the other end holding the bearing and gear on.
It's possible that someone fixed a shaft with a stripped thread by boring and threading it.
The seal should not be affected by the rough shaft surface as long as the ceramic??? seat is attached to the impeller rear face like it is supposed to be. I have reattached the seat when it had come loose and gotten good service out of it. I have also seen impellers with the seat missing and the carbon seal running directly on the cast iron impeller. With the missing thickness of the seat, the seal couldn't last as long as normal since the spring and bellows assembly has only a limited travel.
What do the failed seals look like? I remember one on a 9U tractor that had apparently stuck and cracked the carbon ring when the engine was started up after an extended period of storage (sitting in field).
I have a D7e 47a - 874. A few years back, the water pump started to leak on my 7e I took it apart and the ceramic seal looked rough,
so I just bought the new bellows and seal. I put them in and everything was fine for about 15 or 20 hours, and it started to leak again.
I took it apart, thinking I had made a mistake, because the local Cat Shop told me "no one fixes water pumps; they just buy a rebuilt",
so that's what I did the next time. That lasted about 10 hours and started to leak. So I rebuilt the rebuilt and it lasted a very few hours
and the ceramic seal looked rough on all of them when I took them apart. The local independent equipment mechanic came up with the
idea of draining everything -- the block and flushing it with water and acid -- with a leaking pump on it -- and then replace the ceramic
seal and put new coolant in it. It fixed the problem -- it's been on my Cat for several years and it hasn't bothered since. I don't know
what was in the coolant, but that must have been the problem.