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d7e 47a 1760 final drives filling up with oil

d7e 47a 1760 final drives filling up with oil

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au7edd
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hello,I checked both a couple of days ago and both are over full. Where is the seal in the transmission that is leaking & do i have to completely strip the arse end to repair it? there is no water in both & neither one leaks. cheers.
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Tue, Feb 18, 2014 8:12 AM
Wombat
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It appears you are losing transmission oil into your final drives, the pinion seal will be the fault, need to remove both steering clutches, if I remember correctly you can replace seals by pulling outer pinion flanges, replace seals and reverse procedure. This will only work providing pinion bearings are ok, with some effort and fiddling they can also be replaced without removing final drive. Oil leak can also be caused by inner pinion bearing box coming loose and chattering and wearing both box and main housing, this would be a rare problem, go for the seal and check pinion bearings. It is not a big job to remove fuel tank and clutch covers and clutches, will need hydraulic puller to pull hub.

Place tractor on flat smooth hard surface with attachments raised and chained up, so you can use a hydraulic jack under a grouser to roll tractor to undo steering clutch bolts, inner and outer. Be care full not to allow clutch to slip out of brake drum when you lift it out.
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Tue, Feb 18, 2014 8:30 AM
au7edd
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Reply to Wombat:
It appears you are losing transmission oil into your final drives, the pinion seal will be the fault, need to remove both steering clutches, if I remember correctly you can replace seals by pulling outer pinion flanges, replace seals and reverse procedure. This will only work providing pinion bearings are ok, with some effort and fiddling they can also be replaced without removing final drive. Oil leak can also be caused by inner pinion bearing box coming loose and chattering and wearing both box and main housing, this would be a rare problem, go for the seal and check pinion bearings. It is not a big job to remove fuel tank and clutch covers and clutches, will need hydraulic puller to pull hub.

Place tractor on flat smooth hard surface with attachments raised and chained up, so you can use a hydraulic jack under a grouser to roll tractor to undo steering clutch bolts, inner and outer. Be care full not to allow clutch to slip out of brake drum when you lift it out.
I haven't got a puller so will have to get it to a mechanic somewhere. is is normal for both to go around about at the same time?
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Tue, Feb 18, 2014 3:00 PM
seiscat
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Reply to au7edd:
I haven't got a puller so will have to get it to a mechanic somewhere. is is normal for both to go around about at the same time?
[size=5]Was this machine stored for a while? How much were the final drives overfilled? Some leakage could be caused by extended static storage. Severe overfill could be caused by a number of reasons, none of them would be a cheap fix.
Good Luck,
Craig[/size]
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Thu, Feb 20, 2014 10:47 AM
au7edd
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Reply to seiscat:
[size=5]Was this machine stored for a while? How much were the final drives overfilled? Some leakage could be caused by extended static storage. Severe overfill could be caused by a number of reasons, none of them would be a cheap fix.
Good Luck,
Craig[/size]
I now have to fix this problem. It says in my book that after removing the steering clutches, i can remove the flange along with the shaft and gear in one piece. how difficult is this?
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Wed, Jul 8, 2015 12:46 PM
tctractors
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Reply to au7edd:
I now have to fix this problem. It says in my book that after removing the steering clutches, i can remove the flange along with the shaft and gear in one piece. how difficult is this?
edd, after the clutch pack is lifted out the next task to do is undoing the pinion nut that holds the flange, it has a lock tab bent up to hold it firm but if you can this is best done in the tractor, the complete assembly can be removed on the D7/8 tractors with no need for fancy tooling just a shop press to strip and rebuild the assembly, the seal system used is a double lip type seal not a Duo-Cone item, to re assemble fit 2 lining pins/studs into the top 2 case bolt holes then fit the gasket onto these followed by the pinion assembly with the flange holes handy to get the studs out, you might need to pack the bearing in the F/Drive with stiff grease to help keep the rollers up against the race to make fitting easy, also check the breathers on both F/Drives and Transmission, if you jack up the 1 side of the tractor about 4"you can leave the transmission oil in.
tctractors
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Wed, Jul 8, 2015 1:10 PM
au7edd
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Reply to tctractors:
edd, after the clutch pack is lifted out the next task to do is undoing the pinion nut that holds the flange, it has a lock tab bent up to hold it firm but if you can this is best done in the tractor, the complete assembly can be removed on the D7/8 tractors with no need for fancy tooling just a shop press to strip and rebuild the assembly, the seal system used is a double lip type seal not a Duo-Cone item, to re assemble fit 2 lining pins/studs into the top 2 case bolt holes then fit the gasket onto these followed by the pinion assembly with the flange holes handy to get the studs out, you might need to pack the bearing in the F/Drive with stiff grease to help keep the rollers up against the race to make fitting easy, also check the breathers on both F/Drives and Transmission, if you jack up the 1 side of the tractor about 4"you can leave the transmission oil in.
tctractors
so you're saying that the pinion flange is easy to get off? in my book they have a puller on it. i thought that it would be easier to remove the whole pinion shaft with the flange. that way i can take it to someone with a puller. both seals are leaking so a little bit of oil will have to come out.
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Wed, Jul 8, 2015 1:37 PM
7upuller
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Reply to au7edd:
so you're saying that the pinion flange is easy to get off? in my book they have a puller on it. i thought that it would be easier to remove the whole pinion shaft with the flange. that way i can take it to someone with a puller. both seals are leaking so a little bit of oil will have to come out.
Hey au7edd,

On my 14-a my finals were overfilling. The leak turned out to be a bad seal in my steering booster. As time went on, I had to keep adding oil to the steering booster and my right final would over fill. I repaired the booster and the over filling stopped. glen
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Wed, Jul 8, 2015 7:59 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to 7upuller:
Hey au7edd,

On my 14-a my finals were overfilling. The leak turned out to be a bad seal in my steering booster. As time went on, I had to keep adding oil to the steering booster and my right final would over fill. I repaired the booster and the over filling stopped. glen
All true except the 14A was the last of the rear mount steering boosters.
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Wed, Jul 8, 2015 10:06 PM
tctractors
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Reply to Old Magnet:
All true except the 14A was the last of the rear mount steering boosters.
Edd, what I thought I said was firstly the complete pinion and flange assembly can be removed in 1 lump, secondly the nut on the flange I find it easier to undo in situ, the final bit is you dont need any fancy tooling to push/pull the flange other than a shop press with the assembly out of the tractor, I have just done 1 of these 47a F/Drives including pulling out the knackered Dead Shaft, changing all the gears including the top pinion, fitting a new Dead shaft and squeezing it all back together, I have posted pictures on another Forum site if it is of interest to you, the tooling you will need if you go the CAT service Book route is the same adaptor to fit a D6C or the longer adaptor that fits the snub end pinion fitted to the D6D, for your information I used all the correct CAT tooling as I have around 4 complete sets of the stuff "I don't Know why" I work in these back ends weekly but I understand not everyone has this tooling hanging about handy, the pinion refurb' is something a shop press can sort easily, I wish you good luck with your efforts Sir.
tctractors
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Thu, Jul 9, 2015 2:42 AM
au7edd
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Reply to tctractors:
Edd, what I thought I said was firstly the complete pinion and flange assembly can be removed in 1 lump, secondly the nut on the flange I find it easier to undo in situ, the final bit is you dont need any fancy tooling to push/pull the flange other than a shop press with the assembly out of the tractor, I have just done 1 of these 47a F/Drives including pulling out the knackered Dead Shaft, changing all the gears including the top pinion, fitting a new Dead shaft and squeezing it all back together, I have posted pictures on another Forum site if it is of interest to you, the tooling you will need if you go the CAT service Book route is the same adaptor to fit a D6C or the longer adaptor that fits the snub end pinion fitted to the D6D, for your information I used all the correct CAT tooling as I have around 4 complete sets of the stuff "I don't Know why" I work in these back ends weekly but I understand not everyone has this tooling hanging about handy, the pinion refurb' is something a shop press can sort easily, I wish you good luck with your efforts Sir.
tctractors
I'm sorry, i didn't read your post properly. Not the first time!!!! Crystal clear there now.
What size press will i need? ie. how many tons?
There are not to many people left in the bush anymore and people with that sort of gear are hard to find.
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Thu, Jul 9, 2015 5:43 AM
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