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d7 pins & bushings change

d7 pins & bushings change

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blythkd
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I have a D7F with CAT SALT tracks and will be in need of pins and bushings soon. I found a set locally that a guy will part with cheap but not sure if he has what I need. He says his set is for a D7E for what it's worth. Near as I can tell my pins measure out the same as his although I would be going back to a plain open pin, not sealed. I'm assuming this will work ok. The bushings however appear to be the same diameter but about a half inch shorter. His bushings are 7 inches long and mine look to be about 6.5 inches. If so, is it worth cutting all the bushings down since they're cheap? Anyone have experience with that? I'm assuming they'll cut on a lathe. How much should I be looking to spend for new pins and bushings? How much to have them installed?
Thanks,
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Sun, Apr 12, 2015 8:28 PM
catsilver
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First thing is, how much wear is on the rails and what makes you think the pins and bushes are due for changing? The standard 'sealed' track bushes are longer because they extend into the outer end of the links and are 'sealed' with a pair of Belleville washers, 'SALT' carries a spacer with a rubber/plastic seal around it in the same space in the outer link. I don't reckon I would try machining the end of those bushes off, they are very hard on the outside surface but the sealing surface you finish up with for the seal to run on would not be very wear resistant and quite rough, damaging the seals.
See what wear is left on the rails before making any decision, give us the height of the rails over the pins and the part number on them and we can tell how much wear is left in them.
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Sun, Apr 12, 2015 10:17 PM
blythkd
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Reply to catsilver:
First thing is, how much wear is on the rails and what makes you think the pins and bushes are due for changing? The standard 'sealed' track bushes are longer because they extend into the outer end of the links and are 'sealed' with a pair of Belleville washers, 'SALT' carries a spacer with a rubber/plastic seal around it in the same space in the outer link. I don't reckon I would try machining the end of those bushes off, they are very hard on the outside surface but the sealing surface you finish up with for the seal to run on would not be very wear resistant and quite rough, damaging the seals.
See what wear is left on the rails before making any decision, give us the height of the rails over the pins and the part number on them and we can tell how much wear is left in them.
Well the machine is out in the middle of the mud as it has been raining for hours here so I'm not going out to measure today. I noticed last time I looked there were CAT numbers on the rails at the splice link, not sure if that's rail numbers or just the splice pieces. Right next to the numbers was the word "SEALED" and there's a depressed center washer fastened to the end of each pin with a small slotted screw. I assumed that was a SALT track but maybe the two aren't necessarily the same thing. Are you saying that belleville washers and actual seals represent two different types? And I know my rails have life left but I can't recite the measurement for sure. There's a lot of room between the pin bosses on the rails and roller flanges, maybe close to an inch, but I can't say for sure exactly what the rail height is.

As far as the bushing length goes, I wasn't very clear. I was contemplating converting to non-sealed pins and just wondered if that works on sealed rails or if it's even advisable. I assumed in that scenario you wouldn't have to worry about providing a good smooth seal surface on the "new" end of the bushing after turning as now the bushing would not extend into the outer link and would only go through the inner link. I work in a machine shop so turning them wouldn't be a big deal to me if they aren't too hard to cut, which I doubt. My machine is only a farm dozer, no commercial work, so an unsealed setup would likely last me as long as I would need it.

Please bear with me, I've been around machinery all my life and worked in a shop most of my life, but this is my first dozer. I can probably get more information in the next day or two if it quits raining.
Thanks,
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Sun, Apr 12, 2015 10:58 PM
catsilver
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Reply to blythkd:
Well the machine is out in the middle of the mud as it has been raining for hours here so I'm not going out to measure today. I noticed last time I looked there were CAT numbers on the rails at the splice link, not sure if that's rail numbers or just the splice pieces. Right next to the numbers was the word "SEALED" and there's a depressed center washer fastened to the end of each pin with a small slotted screw. I assumed that was a SALT track but maybe the two aren't necessarily the same thing. Are you saying that belleville washers and actual seals represent two different types? And I know my rails have life left but I can't recite the measurement for sure. There's a lot of room between the pin bosses on the rails and roller flanges, maybe close to an inch, but I can't say for sure exactly what the rail height is.

As far as the bushing length goes, I wasn't very clear. I was contemplating converting to non-sealed pins and just wondered if that works on sealed rails or if it's even advisable. I assumed in that scenario you wouldn't have to worry about providing a good smooth seal surface on the "new" end of the bushing after turning as now the bushing would not extend into the outer link and would only go through the inner link. I work in a machine shop so turning them wouldn't be a big deal to me if they aren't too hard to cut, which I doubt. My machine is only a farm dozer, no commercial work, so an unsealed setup would likely last me as long as I would need it.

Please bear with me, I've been around machinery all my life and worked in a shop most of my life, but this is my first dozer. I can probably get more information in the next day or two if it quits raining.
Thanks,
'Sealed' track has been around since the 1950's and the bushes extend into the outer links with steel Belleville seals to keep the dirt out, when Cat started using 'SALT' track in the early '70's they used the same part number 'sealed' links with shorter bushes, the link counterbore depth made up with a steel spacer with seal assembly round it to keep the oil in and hollow pins to act as a reservoir, the pins had a rubber plug in them with a small plastic plug in the centre, if yours have screws in, someone has been trying to re-lube them, unless someone can tell me about any recent update to screws. If you want to use those longer bushes, you will also need the correct steel seals and new standard pins, and you will need the service of a proper track press to fit them.
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Mon, Apr 13, 2015 12:39 AM
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