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D7 Gear shift

D7 Gear shift

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ali sleiman
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Hey folks ,
it has been a wjhile since I posted anything, that is due to starting a business 🙄 .
I have been restoring one of D7 17 A . slowly . would like to know if the gear shifter stick , pulled mine out and find that it worn a slot about 1 in from the bottom.
Is it suppose to full and squre as the picture in the manual show.
I am also rebuilding or changing all the plates on the shfters. I found that the bottom ring is missing at least according to the manual help😊
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Sun, Oct 18, 2009 10:21 PM
ali sleiman
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I must have been a sleep when posted.
My question is that the end of the gear shifter ( the stick ) is worn out from about one inch from the bottom of the stick. Is it suppose to be solid Thank you
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Mon, Oct 19, 2009 12:54 AM
Rd6 plower
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Reply to ali sleiman:
I must have been a sleep when posted.
My question is that the end of the gear shifter ( the stick ) is worn out from about one inch from the bottom of the stick. Is it suppose to be solid Thank you
What's the serial# ,I might be able to help you.😊
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Mon, Oct 19, 2009 1:03 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Rd6 plower:
What's the serial# ,I might be able to help you.😊
Hi Ali,
Been quite awhile😊
The end of the shifter does neck down with a transition from shaft to solid square end that should fit nicely into the gate lock. Not having the bottom ring may have let the shifter drop down to where it is rubbing on something and causing excess wear.

The shifter end can be welded up and ground back to the desired shape.
I really don't have a good picture but here is the parts book version. It is the same set up as used on the 3T models.
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Mon, Oct 19, 2009 2:48 AM
ali sleiman
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Hi Ali,
Been quite awhile😊
The end of the shifter does neck down with a transition from shaft to solid square end that should fit nicely into the gate lock. Not having the bottom ring may have let the shifter drop down to where it is rubbing on something and causing excess wear.

The shifter end can be welded up and ground back to the desired shape.
I really don't have a good picture but here is the parts book version. It is the same set up as used on the 3T models.
Hey Old Magnet😊
Thank you
I have the same picture in the part book and the manual, they are not clear at the end.
The serail number on this machine is D717A 2889 it is one of the early 17 A with only 7000 hrs on the engine.

OM you may be right about the shifter droped down too far with the ring is gone. I can either make one or find one . The shifter sort made like aneck about 1 in from the bottom . I can weld ed up tothe square shape.

It got busy around here now I need to get back to restoring the old machine like the other one😮 . There are a lot of shaft that are worn out that can easily replaced and new bushing put in place.
OM I would like to rebuild the steering booster ,espcialy in the front where that steering rod go.
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Mon, Oct 19, 2009 4:35 AM
ccjersey
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Reply to ali sleiman:
Hey Old Magnet😊
Thank you
I have the same picture in the part book and the manual, they are not clear at the end.
The serail number on this machine is D717A 2889 it is one of the early 17 A with only 7000 hrs on the engine.

OM you may be right about the shifter droped down too far with the ring is gone. I can either make one or find one . The shifter sort made like aneck about 1 in from the bottom . I can weld ed up tothe square shape.

It got busy around here now I need to get back to restoring the old machine like the other one😮 . There are a lot of shaft that are worn out that can easily replaced and new bushing put in place.
OM I would like to rebuild the steering booster ,espcialy in the front where that steering rod go.
Without a picture of your wear it's difficult to tell, but from the parts book picture and by the way other shifter sticks are made, there probably should be a "rounded square" surface on front and back of the stick so it doesn't bind in the shifter gates as you push or pull into gear. The sides would be flat since you need to move from one gate to the next in a precise manner.

Many times a stick can get worn off on the corners and it will slip into neutral without completely moving the gate into neutral. The CAT shifter won't be as narrow as a truck etc and as likely to have this problem.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Oct 19, 2009 6:45 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
Without a picture of your wear it's difficult to tell, but from the parts book picture and by the way other shifter sticks are made, there probably should be a "rounded square" surface on front and back of the stick so it doesn't bind in the shifter gates as you push or pull into gear. The sides would be flat since you need to move from one gate to the next in a precise manner.

Many times a stick can get worn off on the corners and it will slip into neutral without completely moving the gate into neutral. The CAT shifter won't be as narrow as a truck etc and as likely to have this problem.
The steering clutch booster is pretty much the same for the D6's, Early D7's and the 17A. The part they don't tell you in the manual is you have to drill the pins out to pull the inner seal retainers. The retainers are aluminum so watch for the change from steel pins to aluminum as they only partially intersect the retainers. You can see the retainer pin holes up by the suction screen access plug.
You will also need to make up a puller with 7/8-14 female thread to pull the retainers out. Picture attached:
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Mon, Oct 19, 2009 7:18 AM
ali sleiman
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The steering clutch booster is pretty much the same for the D6's, Early D7's and the 17A. The part they don't tell you in the manual is you have to drill the pins out to pull the inner seal retainers. The retainers are aluminum so watch for the change from steel pins to aluminum as they only partially intersect the retainers. You can see the retainer pin holes up by the suction screen access plug.
You will also need to make up a puller with 7/8-14 female thread to pull the retainers out. Picture attached:
CC ,
I guess I can post a picture so the discussion will be more meaningfull

OM
Thank you for the picture , you are right the Manual does not say you have to drill to pull the inner seal retainer.
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Tue, Oct 20, 2009 7:47 AM
ali sleiman
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Reply to ali sleiman:
CC ,
I guess I can post a picture so the discussion will be more meaningfull

OM
Thank you for the picture , you are right the Manual does not say you have to drill to pull the inner seal retainer.
CC & OM

Here are the picture for the gear shifter. I had to go to Cat dealer today , they confirmed that the end was slightly worn, would like to get specification as in width, and length. I did weld it and added a bead on all side and find grinded it . it does go into the slot when I tried it 😊
Mainly I was rebuilding the shifter to take out the free play, specially with the bottom ring totally gone and stop the leak from going into the transmission. You can see all the picture of the ring and cap that were missing , the gasket are home made

Tried to assemble the shifter this evening I did not have any luck, I know it must be in neutral and all slot aligned . I must be doing something wrong
I have one slot that I am suspect of . it is all the way back
OM help
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Wed, Oct 21, 2009 6:48 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ali sleiman:
CC & OM

Here are the picture for the gear shifter. I had to go to Cat dealer today , they confirmed that the end was slightly worn, would like to get specification as in width, and length. I did weld it and added a bead on all side and find grinded it . it does go into the slot when I tried it 😊
Mainly I was rebuilding the shifter to take out the free play, specially with the bottom ring totally gone and stop the leak from going into the transmission. You can see all the picture of the ring and cap that were missing , the gasket are home made

Tried to assemble the shifter this evening I did not have any luck, I know it must be in neutral and all slot aligned . I must be doing something wrong
I have one slot that I am suspect of . it is all the way back
OM help
Attachment
Attachment
The picture is pretty fuzzy but the general shape looks right. By "not much luck" do you mean you could not engage the lever into the swinging gate lock or you just could not pick up all the gears? Good chance that along with the worn shifter you have picked up some burrs.
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Wed, Oct 21, 2009 8:19 AM
ali sleiman
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The picture is pretty fuzzy but the general shape looks right. By "not much luck" do you mean you could not engage the lever into the swinging gate lock or you just could not pick up all the gears? Good chance that along with the worn shifter you have picked up some burrs.
The picture were not clear it was too sunny around here today. But I also welded the end about 1/8 . it fit into the slotfine
but once I assemble the plate and ring ,The problem is that I cant see in to the hole to put it in place😞
I also noticed that one of the gates is out of place. I must have the got the trans in gear . Should all three gate be in line or in neutral before assembly
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Wed, Oct 21, 2009 8:32 AM
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