D7 48A Balancer washer in bits,will later model washer fit as 4H8775 washer obsolete

John,
I can't answer your questions but did notice a 17a washer is the same 4H8775 serial # 17A5173 to 17A5179 and 17a5182 and up. I appreciate your pictures skills, they show everything very well. I have just found out there was 4 plus gals of water in my 17a engine and I am debating on whether to take the oil pan off to access the damage. Your pictures make me think I should. Thanks Lex

Hi Lex,thanks for the imfo,i am hoping #2S8949 washer will fit my balancer and will let you know if you ever have to replace yours,it might be handy to know.I'm not sure if there are any other options apart from finding a good second hand thrust washer.To take the oil pan off,i found the hardest part was to undo the rear bolts on the sump as they are so close to the hard bar ,as long as you have a two piece oil pan you can get it off.To put the new oil pan on didn't take as long as i thought. To get the rear bolts off, i just used a stanley ring spanner,i had to file a little bit off the hard bar to get better access to one bolt but not much at all.Unfortunately i have to do it all again to replace the thrust washer.I used two floor jacks and a sling in the centre supported by a block and tackle either side to an overhead gantry crane.You'll need an air wrench for the rest of the bolts apart from 4 or 5 top bolts on the right side near the dipstick where i could'nt get my rachet gun in there,so again just a stanley ring spanner whacked with a hammer a few times to loosen them.The pan was also stuck on with all the bolts removed ,so i used a 2x2 piece of timber and whacked it loose near the dipstick outlet which loosened it.Hope this helps,i think every d7e might be slightly different with the hard bar being closer or further away from the sump by milimetres which makes a lot of difference to accessing those rear bolts,
cheers John.

4h8775 does not cross to 2S8949, in each instance of use, it changes from 4H8775 to 2S8949 at a specific serial number in each series with no overlap.

How about updating to the later drive gear shaft and bracket that matches the later thrust washer. The rest seems to be the same.

I did'nt even think about changing the drive gear and bracket to the later serial Old Magnet but it could be an option,i'll see if the parts can be purchased from Cat.I have the later thrust washer on order so i will see if their are any differences in the old and new,the lock plate is the same,so the bolt holes must line up.If i do have to change the drive gear and bracket,would it be a big job,i will probably get a diesel mechanic in for that with the right tools,pullers etc.
josh,when you say it changes at a specific series with no overlap,does that mean that the newer serial washer would have to be different,i guess i will find out next week when the part arrives,
cheers John.

Usually when a part will interchange, it will be noted as an alternative part number, or the serial number range for the part will overlap. That's not saying it won't fit, just what I usually see.

Should not be a big deal to have a machine shop build one for you, ....WA7OPY

I'm hoping the later serial washer will fit as fitting the later ring gear bracket and parts to match the washer is beyond my capibilities and i would have to get a field mechanic in.If the part ordered fits,i am hoping to just replace the broken washer without taking the gear off.There looks like their might be enough room to get the bolts on but i won't know until i remove the sump again.
WA70PY,i think i will give your idea a try and get a new washer made,three quarters of the old one is still intact,so could use it as a template as long as it is made of brass,i think that would solve my problem.
I was reading one of the old threads on this forum and i saw cab was looking for the same part as me a few years ago,did you manage to locate one cab or did you get one made,
Cheers John.

John, get it made from bronze.