When you say it's stuck, do you mean the stick goes to neutral and leaves the shift gate/rail behind?
If that's the case, something is worn. I have never had much luck building up on the end of a stick and have it last. Just doesn't seem to be hard enough using regular welding rods like 7018. Something that doesn't get a lot of use, might be fine, but in trucks, we soon ended up with a new stick.
If the stick and shifter rail won't come out of 2nd (the stick stays in the shifter gate like it's supposed to) then adjust the interlock system that links to the main clutch. The pin can sometimes fall out of the forks or just wear in all the pivots and pins can cause it to get out of adjustment. The lock should not release until the clutch pops out. To check, push on the shifter stick to put it in neutral while you're going along, At the same time move the clutch forward, transmission lock should not release and allow the shifter to go to neutral before clutch pops out.
i had one that wouldn't shift right. turned out bushings in clutch houseing were so wore-out interlock couldn't work. no adjusting helped. to much slack.
If the interlock mechanism is out of adjustment you won't be able to shift any gears.
Seems more like a problem with the shift rail detent plungers, either worn, stuck or broken springs which is allowing more than one shift fork to move during a shift. Requires removal of the covers (2) down on the side of the transmission to get access.
OK, so stick and transmission both stay in second, you just can't move it to neutral?
I don't think it has anything to do with the stick. Most likely the detent plungers and springs like Old Magnet said. I think they are all returned to the unlocked position by a spring, so probably the one on the second gear rail is sticking or perhaps the shift collar on the transmission shaft is worn or rusty.
Sure would be simpler if it were a detent!
Shifting is controlled by the stick and shift gates. Plungers are what holds the shift forks in the selected position.
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