D7 3T Question

JohnnyJ

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Greeting. First post. Great site. Pretty humbling to be here 'mongst all the knowledge. Short history, I have a few acres I've been battling for a number of years to get cleaned up. Chain saw, '59 MF tractor. Hired a few times some dozer fellows that took a nice piece of change but only sort of scratched the surface of what's needing done. Took a chance and bought what I think (fellow had passed and his widow and son were selling) is a '52 model. Hope to post pics when I figure out how. Tag says D7 3T 20616. Initially hoping to use/get done and resell but after 30ish hours or so this machine is kinda growing on me. Couple questions I hope someone will provide info to. Simple oil check, obviously cold level shows a point on stick. What advantage is a idling engine when checked cold simply shows above the full mark opposed to while idling?? Also winch operation how to make cable unwind ? Cable is without loop/hook, only seems go in 'pull' direction. I haven't messed with winch a lot. Using the winch/cable I know can be dangerous. Again great site. Much thanks to any replies..

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Fri, Feb 28, 2014 1:18 AM

ccjersey

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the check while running stick is so you can check while running:eyebrows: Nice when you have to pony start it if you shut it down to check the oil, or for gensets, marine engines etc that may run for days on end without stopping. If you want, you can make a mark at the full while stopped point. Most folks just check it to see if there's some in there before they start it and then check it again while it's warming up and add some if needed. The 48A we have had such bad blowby when we got it, you could never get any oil into it with the engine running. It would blow it back all over you. It's been overhauled now and it is easy to add oil without taking a shower.

I'm no expert on the winch, but I would probably unwind enough of it off the spool just slipping it around and around until you get some to connect it to a tree or some other heavy item and then drive away to spool it off and probably polish up the brake surfaces. I always wanted to have a towing winch on a dozer here. Had one on an old 9U for a little while, but that tractor seldom used and got where it didn't run, so it got scrapped. I should have flung a fit to keep the winch, but it went too. Not long after, we got our "good" 9U stuck and couldn't get it out with a modern D5 that was working nearby. Had to have a D7 with a winch hauled in and get it the next day.

There's no comparison between what a winch will pull and what the tractor will pull! The D7 spooled out some cable and we hooked it on. He tried to drive away with it, but the 9U was buried from the D5 trying to nudge it out. (worked about like screwing it into the ground). So the D7 guy held the brakes and engaged the winch and out we came.. I popped the clutch in and cranked the 9U as soon as the tracks hit solid ground and we were back in business.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄

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Fri, Feb 28, 2014 3:48 AM

seiscat

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Welcome aboard JohnnyJ. Check out the For Sale/Wanted, DandyDave has scored a bunch of old service manuals/parts books and is listing them for sale as he unpacks the boxes. Ebay is a great source also, just search under vintage caterpillar manuals. Look for a operation and maintenance instructions as well as a service manual and parts book. Trust me, you will save much more than the time and money spent acquiring manuals. Kinda' funny how the old machines grow on you, huh. Good luck and happy running. You have come to the right place for help.

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Fri, Feb 28, 2014 8:09 AM

JohnnyJ

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Reply to seiscat:

Welcome aboard JohnnyJ. Check out the For Sale/Wanted, DandyDave has scored a bunch of old service manuals/parts books and is listing them for sale as he unpacks the boxes. Ebay is a great source also, just search under vintage caterpillar manuals. Look for a operation and maintenance instructions as well as a service manual and parts book. Trust me, you will save much more than the time and money spent acquiring manuals. Kinda' funny how the old machines grow on you, huh. Good luck and happy running. You have come to the right place for help.

Thanks to seiscat garlic pete and ccjersey for input. Makes sense not having to shut down engine to check oil would be huge help in a lot of ways. This D7 has a electric start which seems to work really well so far. I'm attaching pics and hope you or someone can tell me how much work this winch is supposed to deal with. The 'no reverse' seems to make sense as I've been unable as stated earlier to get it to do so far. I'll try the gravity pull you suggested. It's pretty amazing the amount of push these things have. Also will try to find which manuals to get. I'd like to have the shop ones that detail repairs. I may have to wait a bit to order,,just getting this girl (myrtle was previous owners given name to her) and keeping extra fuel money is ongoing effort. This dozer does slobber some. It does seem to lessen after working as I've read is customary. Someone apparently put a limit on my throttle at some point in time. Seems to max out with a good amount of room left, and I'm no expert but sounds to be if I were guessing somewhere around the 65 - 70% range. Where the throttle does go to seems fine though, it does plenty enough work wise and I've never been one to run an engine wide open (dads advice many years ago with cars n gas engines anyway). Thanks again for any input.
Attachment

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Sat, Mar 1, 2014 2:20 AM

ccjersey

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Your 3T has a slow turning engine. Long stroke, Gobs of torque, lasts nearly forever, but it's not going to sound like it's revved up. I'm guessing around 1100 rpm no load? Old Magnet probably has the rack setting book with that information.

Your winch is most properly called a Cable control unit (CCU). I missed the boat with my previous reply describing a towing winch. A CCU is a relatively light duty, fast winch that works with the pulley blocks (mechanical advantage) to rapidly move the heavy dozer or can be connected to towed equipment like scrapers, rippers etc. The swivel pulleys on top rotate to keep the cable from getting snarled up. I"m guessing you have a #25 CCU on that age of tractor. Should have a serial number tag on it.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄

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Sat, Mar 1, 2014 3:00 AM

JohnnyJ

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I have had the tracks to slip under load. Very good info so I won't be over doing the winch. I never really had hard use plans for it anyways. Stuck would be the downside of it not being strong but I don't plan (does anyone ever) to use this unless pretttty dry giving best chance to not bury. The throttle info sounds textbook too. When running it seems very appropriate if that makes sense,,or I mean not stressed or high rpmish. Thanks again..

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Sat, Mar 1, 2014 3:06 AM

Old Magnet

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Reply to JohnnyJ:

I have had the tracks to slip under load. Very good info so I won't be over doing the winch. I never really had hard use plans for it anyways. Stuck would be the downside of it not being strong but I don't plan (does anyone ever) to use this unless pretttty dry giving best chance to not bury. The throttle info sounds textbook too. When running it seems very appropriate if that makes sense,,or I mean not stressed or high rpmish. Thanks again..

Full load engine rpm is 1000...
Here are the specs....

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Sat, Mar 1, 2014 6:06 AM

JohnnyJ

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Reply to Old Magnet:

Full load engine rpm is 1000...
Here are the specs....

ccjersey garlic pete and old magnet. I'm thankful you guys are willing to share experience with folk like myself. I've always been sort of a shade tree do it yourselfer but only with regular vehicles.. I do have a '59 m/f 35 tractor also kinda from the same era as the Cat. I'm only able to use Cat on Saturdays as of late and even those are compromised at times. Lookin forward to daylight savings time coming up. I have a track pin question for you guys to share next week. I'm having be away this weekend but will take a pic of this pin to show you upon return. Pics really are worth thousands of words. Thanks again CC GP and OM for sharing and the spec sheet. It's awesome info.

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Sat, Mar 1, 2014 10:44 AM

catskinner

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Reply to JohnnyJ:

ccjersey garlic pete and old magnet. I'm thankful you guys are willing to share experience with folk like myself. I've always been sort of a shade tree do it yourselfer but only with regular vehicles.. I do have a '59 m/f 35 tractor also kinda from the same era as the Cat. I'm only able to use Cat on Saturdays as of late and even those are compromised at times. Lookin forward to daylight savings time coming up. I have a track pin question for you guys to share next week. I'm having be away this weekend but will take a pic of this pin to show you upon return. Pics really are worth thousands of words. Thanks again CC GP and OM for sharing and the spec sheet. It's awesome info.

It is best to check the oil at noon when you let it cool down before you shut it off and eat, and again in the evening or when ever you stop for the day. That way the oil is warm and you can see how much it needs and can add it in the morning before you start up. Checking the oil right after you start it in the morning gives you a false reading as the cold oil is hung up in different places when you check it and it will read low. You add oil then according to that and then when you check it warm, it is over full.
I had a guy fill in for me one day at the landfill and I told him it would be full of oil. When I came back, he jumped all over me about not having enough oil in it. I asked when he checked it and he said right after he started it. I said right there was YOUR mistake as I had it full and it was probably over full now. I asked how much did you put in and he said a gal. I said will I can tell you right now that it will be one gal. over full and sure enough it was. catskinner

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Sun, Mar 16, 2014 10:04 AM

seiscat

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Reply to JohnnyJ:

ccjersey garlic pete and old magnet. I'm thankful you guys are willing to share experience with folk like myself. I've always been sort of a shade tree do it yourselfer but only with regular vehicles.. I do have a '59 m/f 35 tractor also kinda from the same era as the Cat. I'm only able to use Cat on Saturdays as of late and even those are compromised at times. Lookin forward to daylight savings time coming up. I have a track pin question for you guys to share next week. I'm having be away this weekend but will take a pic of this pin to show you upon return. Pics really are worth thousands of words. Thanks again CC GP and OM for sharing and the spec sheet. It's awesome info.

Hello JohnnyJ,
I just read your posts on this thread and I thought an explanation of the D7 3T throttle/governor control might be helpful. As you noticed the engine speed increases as you pull the throttle back, but only to a point at which you can still continue to pull the throttle back but there is no increase in engine speed. This is commonly called "full throttle-no load". When the tractor begins to strain you will notice that the exhaust noise increases as the governor tries to take the engine to "full throttle under-load". The automobile rules for throttle control do not apply to the throttle/governor control. When you do not open the throttle fully it only serves to keep the governor from functioning as intended and there will be a large decrease in power.
I noticed in the photo that your front idlers appear to be in the "high" position which is for tractors used for draw bar work. Tractors used for blade work usually have the idlers in the "low" position. The "high" position makes it more difficult to blade smoothly. Changing the idler position is a big job that requires breaking the tracks so it is best to just live with it until when/if the tracks are broken for another reason.
The 3T is a great machine and sounds totally cool when the governor lets 'er rip!

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Mon, Mar 17, 2014 12:42 AM

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