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D7 3T #16602 starting clutch.

D7 3T #16602 starting clutch.

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goldminer7759
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Hello to All,
Last Spring the starting clutch finally gave out. No more adjustment left in it. I have now gotten together the where with all to pull the pony motor and replace the clutch. The problem is due to a computer dying I lost the info on where to get the parts and the parts list I had. I have the service manual and parts book but was seeking input from those with more experience on exactly which parts to order and common things to expect during the process. Any advice and information is greatly appreciated!!

Robert(goldminer7759)
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Sun, Nov 30, 2014 11:43 PM
Sasquatch
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First thing first, get the pony motor and starter transmission/clutch assembly removed from the tractor and disassemble the clutch components to see exactly what all you'll need. Lots of stuff is still available through Cat or other places like Florin Tractor who have a good selection of NOS and good used parts. All you'll need are the corresponding part numbers from your manual and your search is ready to begin.

A common failure I've ran into is the starting clutch friction discs coming loose from the center steel plate; the rivets joining the three pieces together loosen up and hog out the holes in the friction material to the point that they all come apart. The picture below shows the old friction discs that had completely come loose from the center steel plate in the starting clutch of one of my RD-6's - this starting clutch disc is the exact same one that's in your D7 so it's a good representation of what you could possibly find. Notice the newly repaired clutch disc next to the failed frictions, the center steel plate was still in good condition so I had my local clutch and brake repair shop just re-line it with new frictions and rivets. The total cost was $40.

[img]http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy310/TRNelson/002_zps3e78e20d.jpg[/img]


Also check the condition of the over-center clutch spider and links while you're in there, as well as the clutch collar and pinion brake disc that's riveted to the inside of the clutch housing. As long as you're into it you might as well make sure everything is up to par. Below is another pic I found showing the clutch spider and links as well as the pressure plates that are found in there. Not a super amount of detail here but it's still something to look at.

[img]http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy310/TRNelson/003_zpsd1e4233f.jpg[/img]


On a somewhat related note here's a video I made showing the lifting bracket I fabricated for removal and installation of my RD6/D6 pony motors that may also work for the D7 and D8 units as well with the provisions I built into it. Just having a tool like this sure makes it a lot easier to remove and install those awkward little engines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_jLdZFJOiE
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Mon, Dec 1, 2014 6:09 AM
goldminer7759
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Reply to Sasquatch:
First thing first, get the pony motor and starter transmission/clutch assembly removed from the tractor and disassemble the clutch components to see exactly what all you'll need. Lots of stuff is still available through Cat or other places like Florin Tractor who have a good selection of NOS and good used parts. All you'll need are the corresponding part numbers from your manual and your search is ready to begin.

A common failure I've ran into is the starting clutch friction discs coming loose from the center steel plate; the rivets joining the three pieces together loosen up and hog out the holes in the friction material to the point that they all come apart. The picture below shows the old friction discs that had completely come loose from the center steel plate in the starting clutch of one of my RD-6's - this starting clutch disc is the exact same one that's in your D7 so it's a good representation of what you could possibly find. Notice the newly repaired clutch disc next to the failed frictions, the center steel plate was still in good condition so I had my local clutch and brake repair shop just re-line it with new frictions and rivets. The total cost was $40.

[img]http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy310/TRNelson/002_zps3e78e20d.jpg[/img]


Also check the condition of the over-center clutch spider and links while you're in there, as well as the clutch collar and pinion brake disc that's riveted to the inside of the clutch housing. As long as you're into it you might as well make sure everything is up to par. Below is another pic I found showing the clutch spider and links as well as the pressure plates that are found in there. Not a super amount of detail here but it's still something to look at.

[img]http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy310/TRNelson/003_zpsd1e4233f.jpg[/img]


On a somewhat related note here's a video I made showing the lifting bracket I fabricated for removal and installation of my RD6/D6 pony motors that may also work for the D7 and D8 units as well with the provisions I built into it. Just having a tool like this sure makes it a lot easier to remove and install those awkward little engines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_jLdZFJOiE
Very helpful. Thanks!!
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Mon, Dec 1, 2014 7:16 PM
johan7
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Reply to goldminer7759:
Very helpful. Thanks!!
Hello Goldminer , I have the same experience as Sasquatch , I had new linings riveted by a local brake shop .
I removed these ponies several times . I find it difficult to use that paper gasket between the 2 engines . I have a good experience with blue silicon gasket .
Good luck , johan7[attachment=26199]98. D7 - 3T startmotor .jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
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Mon, Dec 1, 2014 8:25 PM
goldminer7759
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Reply to johan7:
Hello Goldminer , I have the same experience as Sasquatch , I had new linings riveted by a local brake shop .
I removed these ponies several times . I find it difficult to use that paper gasket between the 2 engines . I have a good experience with blue silicon gasket .
Good luck , johan7[attachment=26199]98. D7 - 3T startmotor .jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Thank you!!
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Tue, Dec 2, 2014 8:14 AM
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