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D7 3 T water pump shaft

D7 3 T water pump shaft

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jd4230ps
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I need new water pump shaft. Where can I get one. What are they made of? Seems to be chromed?Can I have one made from stainless steel? Also the bushing grooves on impeller end are filled with something. Is this crud or some type lube? Sorry for so many questions. Thanks for any help.
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Mon, Jan 28, 2013 8:51 PM
Rome K/G
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A good machine shop should be able to turn down the old shaft and get it rechromed. I take it that the seal area is chromed?
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Mon, Jan 28, 2013 10:06 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Rome K/G:
A good machine shop should be able to turn down the old shaft and get it rechromed. I take it that the seal area is chromed?
Where have you looked?
Part # 5F9873, fits D7,7M,3T,4T,6T, 8R and 2U1-21192.

Originals where just carbon steel, if chromed it's probably already been reworked.
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Mon, Jan 28, 2013 10:44 PM
jd4230ps
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Reply to Rome K/G:
A good machine shop should be able to turn down the old shaft and get it rechromed. I take it that the seal area is chromed?


I am not sure but entire shaft seems to be chromed or something that will not rust because there is not one speck rust on it any where.
Thanks for help.
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Tue, Jan 29, 2013 2:07 AM
jd4230ps
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Where have you looked?
Part # 5F9873, fits D7,7M,3T,4T,6T, 8R and 2U1-21192.

Originals where just carbon steel, if chromed it's probably already been reworked.
[quote="Old Magnet"]Where have you looked?
Part # 5F9873, fits D7,7M,3T,4T,6T, 8R and 2U1-21192.

Originals where just carbon steel, if chromed it's probably already been reworked.[/quote]

I have only checked with local cat salvage yard . they have not yet found new one. Not sure but I think it is chromed, no rust anywhere. Thanks for part # . will keep looking. I have friend who is machinist and they use same size stainless shaft for their pumps. would stainless be an option?
Thanks again.
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Tue, Jan 29, 2013 2:22 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to jd4230ps:
[quote="Old Magnet"]Where have you looked?
Part # 5F9873, fits D7,7M,3T,4T,6T, 8R and 2U1-21192.

Originals where just carbon steel, if chromed it's probably already been reworked.[/quote]

I have only checked with local cat salvage yard . they have not yet found new one. Not sure but I think it is chromed, no rust anywhere. Thanks for part # . will keep looking. I have friend who is machinist and they use same size stainless shaft for their pumps. would stainless be an option?
Thanks again.
No reason stainless wouldn't work, maybe a 318 or better, 304 is to soft.
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Tue, Jan 29, 2013 3:56 AM
Old 3T lover
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Reply to Old Magnet:
No reason stainless wouldn't work, maybe a 318 or better, 304 is to soft.
I have seen 3T water pump shafts as small as a pencil in the "packing" area still doing the job.

If the problem is on the water side of the pump and the shaft isn't worn way-way down just keep putting packing in (lead rope) and tightening the nut a little every few minutes until the leak stops. With all new packing installed don't try to stop the leak completely all at once with just one adjustment.
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Tue, Jan 29, 2013 5:27 AM
jd4230ps
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Reply to Old 3T lover:
I have seen 3T water pump shafts as small as a pencil in the "packing" area still doing the job.

If the problem is on the water side of the pump and the shaft isn't worn way-way down just keep putting packing in (lead rope) and tightening the nut a little every few minutes until the leak stops. With all new packing installed don't try to stop the leak completely all at once with just one adjustment.
[quote="Old 3T lover"]I have seen 3T water pump shafts as small as a pencil in the "packing" area still doing the job.

If the problem is on the water side of the pump and the shaft isn't worn way-way down just keep putting packing in (lead rope) and tightening the nut a little every few minutes until the leak stops. With all new packing installed don't try to stop the leak completely all at once with just one adjustment.[/quote]

Thanks for help. I think I will just put it back together with new packing and oil seal. One more question . Should the packing nut be tightened so there is a drip to cool packing and shaft ? I have read posts here that say let it drip but cat service manual doesnt mention letting it drip....Thanks
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Tue, Jan 29, 2013 8:58 PM
chriscokid
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Reply to jd4230ps:
[quote="Old 3T lover"]I have seen 3T water pump shafts as small as a pencil in the "packing" area still doing the job.

If the problem is on the water side of the pump and the shaft isn't worn way-way down just keep putting packing in (lead rope) and tightening the nut a little every few minutes until the leak stops. With all new packing installed don't try to stop the leak completely all at once with just one adjustment.[/quote]

Thanks for help. I think I will just put it back together with new packing and oil seal. One more question . Should the packing nut be tightened so there is a drip to cool packing and shaft ? I have read posts here that say let it drip but cat service manual doesnt mention letting it drip....Thanks
I made mine out of stainless steel for my 40, if you chrome it you will run the chance of it heating up were the packing is and increasing your chances or flaking off the chrome.

Be sure to use teflon coated packing not graphite, the graphite will eat away the shaft and chrome.
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Tue, Jan 29, 2013 10:47 PM
Old 3T lover
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Reply to jd4230ps:
[quote="Old 3T lover"]I have seen 3T water pump shafts as small as a pencil in the "packing" area still doing the job.

If the problem is on the water side of the pump and the shaft isn't worn way-way down just keep putting packing in (lead rope) and tightening the nut a little every few minutes until the leak stops. With all new packing installed don't try to stop the leak completely all at once with just one adjustment.[/quote]

Thanks for help. I think I will just put it back together with new packing and oil seal. One more question . Should the packing nut be tightened so there is a drip to cool packing and shaft ? I have read posts here that say let it drip but cat service manual doesnt mention letting it drip....Thanks


I never let mine constantly leak.

With all new packing in the pump, tighten the packing nut by hand as far as you can then crank the engine. With the engine running just turn the packing nut a little bit at a time. If you have the *CAT* water pump wrench, about one pull up of the wrench and then wait a little bit before doing another until you barely stop the leak. Check a few times the first day and then it should last several days of full running before needing adjusting again. Then tighten only enough to stop the leak.
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Tue, Jan 29, 2013 11:03 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old 3T lover:


I never let mine constantly leak.

With all new packing in the pump, tighten the packing nut by hand as far as you can then crank the engine. With the engine running just turn the packing nut a little bit at a time. If you have the *CAT* water pump wrench, about one pull up of the wrench and then wait a little bit before doing another until you barely stop the leak. Check a few times the first day and then it should last several days of full running before needing adjusting again. Then tighten only enough to stop the leak.
I was always taught to let a packing gland leak slightly to provide lubrication and cooling of the packing but this was for higher rpm service. Using a self lubricated packing would probably allow zero leakage in this application. Just take your time in bringing up the gland nut pressure.
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Tue, Jan 29, 2013 11:15 PM
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