ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
D7 17A Track Slack

D7 17A Track Slack

Showing 1 to 10 of 11 results
1
dph
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to dph
Posts: 32
Thank you received: 0
I've got a hydraulic track adjuster on the 17A. The other night I got slack in the track all of the sudden. Last night I added grease, took the slack out, and the first time I braked hard and turned the slack came back.

Through the inspection hole I can't see excessive grease from the zerk or the relief valve. I can't see grease from that angle at the front of the cylinder. I was going to take the rest of the covers off tonight, but I figured someone on here would have a good idea of what is going on.

Thanks,
Dan
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Jul 7, 2011 6:53 PM
gemdozer
Online
Member
Send a private message to gemdozer
Posts: 1,446
Thank you received: 3
If your hydrolic cylinder is going too far the greace is going in the coil spring or the seal and ring are brook between the cylinder and the front flange rod
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jul 8, 2011 12:57 AM
flying h
Offline
Send a private message to flying h
Posts: 2
Thank you received: 0
[quote="dph"]I've got a hydraulic track adjuster on the 17A. The other night I got slack in the track all of the sudden. Last night I added grease, took the slack out, and the first time I braked hard and turned the slack came back.

Through the inspection hole I can't see excessive grease from the zerk or the relief valve. I can't see grease from that angle at the front of the cylinder. I was going to take the rest of the covers off tonight, but I figured someone on here would have a good idea of what is going on.

Thanks,
Dan[/quote]

This is my first post on this site; hope it helps.
I had the same experience on a D6C. The piston seal in the adjuster cylinder went bad, the grease got behind the piston into the pilot assembly, and eventually blew out an o-ring seal between the cylinder and the pilot. You'll likely need a seal kit for the track adjuster, and if it's anything like the D6, a lot of sweat. The service manual said you have to break the track and remove the front idler in order to remove the cylinder. I didn't believe it at first; now I do!
American Crane and Tractor (Dallas) had the seal kit I needed for $25. http://www.actparts.com Good Luck
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jul 8, 2011 5:56 AM
anyoldiron
Offline
Send a private message to anyoldiron
Posts: 113
Thank you received: 0
Reply to flying h:
[quote="dph"]I've got a hydraulic track adjuster on the 17A. The other night I got slack in the track all of the sudden. Last night I added grease, took the slack out, and the first time I braked hard and turned the slack came back.

Through the inspection hole I can't see excessive grease from the zerk or the relief valve. I can't see grease from that angle at the front of the cylinder. I was going to take the rest of the covers off tonight, but I figured someone on here would have a good idea of what is going on.

Thanks,
Dan[/quote]

This is my first post on this site; hope it helps.
I had the same experience on a D6C. The piston seal in the adjuster cylinder went bad, the grease got behind the piston into the pilot assembly, and eventually blew out an o-ring seal between the cylinder and the pilot. You'll likely need a seal kit for the track adjuster, and if it's anything like the D6, a lot of sweat. The service manual said you have to break the track and remove the front idler in order to remove the cylinder. I didn't believe it at first; now I do!
American Crane and Tractor (Dallas) had the seal kit I needed for $25. http://www.actparts.com Good Luck
[attachment=9805]002.JPG[/attachment]


l have a similar problem on my D7 17a

When i pump grease into the right nipples grease comes out around where the ram comes out of the shaft and the track wont tighten.

lm thinking i may have the many hours of swearing to replace a $20 seal
Attachment
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jul 8, 2011 8:45 AM
anyoldiron
Offline
Send a private message to anyoldiron
Posts: 113
Thank you received: 0
Reply to anyoldiron:
[attachment=9805]002.JPG[/attachment]


l have a similar problem on my D7 17a

When i pump grease into the right nipples grease comes out around where the ram comes out of the shaft and the track wont tighten.

lm thinking i may have the many hours of swearing to replace a $20 seal
Attachment
............................. a better picture. The grease is coming out around the red doodle.

How do i find what kit i need, my D7 has a winch and a motor from god knows what where would i find the right #s

We could be in the same grim boat Dan!

Cheers
Attachment
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jul 8, 2011 8:56 AM
Old Magnet
Offline
Send a private message to Old Magnet
Posts: 16,694
Thank you received: 16
Reply to anyoldiron:
............................. a better picture. The grease is coming out around the red doodle.

How do i find what kit i need, my D7 has a winch and a motor from god knows what where would i find the right #s

We could be in the same grim boat Dan!

Cheers
Attachment
Not quite the same boat....those are aftermarket adjusters, not the Cat variety. How do I know?? happen to have a NOS never been mounted set that were supposed to be for the D6.....wrong!!!

Should be a common type seal once you get them apart.

Winch with it's own motor?? Post a picture.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jul 8, 2011 11:01 AM
flying h
Offline
Send a private message to flying h
Posts: 2
Thank you received: 0
Reply to anyoldiron:
............................. a better picture. The grease is coming out around the red doodle.

How do i find what kit i need, my D7 has a winch and a motor from god knows what where would i find the right #s

We could be in the same grim boat Dan!

Cheers
Attachment
There is a thread here titled "D7E Hydraulic Track Adjuster" that has lots of discussion and pics; could be helpful information. Good Luck
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jul 8, 2011 11:10 AM
anyoldiron
Offline
Send a private message to anyoldiron
Posts: 113
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Old Magnet:
Not quite the same boat....those are aftermarket adjusters, not the Cat variety. How do I know?? happen to have a NOS never been mounted set that were supposed to be for the D6.....wrong!!!

Should be a common type seal once you get them apart.

Winch with it's own motor?? Post a picture.
[quote="Old Magnet"]Not quite the same boat....those are aftermarket adjusters, not the Cat variety. How do I know?? happen to have a NOS never been mounted set that were supposed to be for the D6.....wrong!!!

Should be a common type seal once you get them apart.

Winch with it's own motor?? Post a picture.[/quote]

Aplogies for not being clear, my D7 has a winch mounted so it covers the # on the back of the frame. The motor is from god knows what..............4H8959 (i think)on the block.

Do i take it apart as per the manual untill i get to the ajuster, split track, remove idler, etc etc?

Cheers
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jul 8, 2011 11:15 AM
Old Magnet
Offline
Send a private message to Old Magnet
Posts: 16,694
Thank you received: 16
Reply to anyoldiron:
[quote="Old Magnet"]Not quite the same boat....those are aftermarket adjusters, not the Cat variety. How do I know?? happen to have a NOS never been mounted set that were supposed to be for the D6.....wrong!!!

Should be a common type seal once you get them apart.

Winch with it's own motor?? Post a picture.[/quote]

Aplogies for not being clear, my D7 has a winch mounted so it covers the # on the back of the frame. The motor is from god knows what..............4H8959 (i think)on the block.

Do i take it apart as per the manual untill i get to the ajuster, split track, remove idler, etc etc?

Cheers
Same drill to access the adjusters.
Engine is a D339
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jul 8, 2011 11:22 AM
anyoldiron
Offline
Send a private message to anyoldiron
Posts: 113
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Old Magnet:
Same drill to access the adjusters.
Engine is a D339
[quote="Old Magnet"]Same drill to access the adjusters.
Engine is a D339[/quote]

Thanks OM,

having read the Poor farmer logger thread am i correct in thinking i have to seperate along the blue line by unbolting the bolt/s in blue?

any idea of how to date the motor, hp etc

Cheers

Mark[attachment=9807]002.JPG[/attachment]
Attachment
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jul 8, 2011 11:49 AM
edb
Offline
Member
Send a private message to edb
Posts: 4,027
Thank you received: 0
Reply to anyoldiron:
............................. a better picture. The grease is coming out around the red doodle.

How do i find what kit i need, my D7 has a winch and a motor from god knows what where would i find the right #s

We could be in the same grim boat Dan!

Cheers
Attachment
Hi Team,
this task should be able to be done as Flying H (welcome to the B😎 says, ie, break the track and move the idler forward after part dismantling the idler yoke and rod. This saves disturbing the recoil spring which is under 30 odd tons pressure !!!!

The method scanned below are the words from Yellow Father's 17A Service Manual on removal and repairing this device.
HOWEVER,
in paragraph (2) of the Recoil Spring Removal and Instalation, I suggest you do not screw the nut onto the spring bolt, as stated, because from my experience, the threads on the spring bolt will be worn from slogging about in the end cap and the nut will likely strip off the bolt, with DIRE RESULTS, when the tension is put back on it for removal of the spring unit. I suggest you use suitable spacers that will fit thru the rear spring support hole so as to keep the nut on sound threads.

Be Careful these things are lethal. The grease zerk for the adjuster is a Special high pressure one, the same applies if it is the removable zerk type. These do not have the sealing ball at the nipple outer end ( the ball can be seen on standard low pressure zerks and can shoot out and kill you) The high pressure zerks have the ball down inside the body of the zerk (ball cannot be seen in the end of the zerk)
So please check all of your hydraulic track adjuster zeks and upgrade them if needed--BE SAFE

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
Attachment
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jul 8, 2011 11:51 AM
Showing 1 to 10 of 11 results
1
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

Wheatlands Warracknabeal Easter Rally

Chapter Nineteen

| 34 Henty Hwy, Warracknabeal

Veerkamp Open House 2025

Chapter Fifteen

| Placerville, CA

Stradsett Park Vintage Rally

Chapter Two

| Stradsett, Nr Downham Market. Norfolk PE33 9HA UK
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I became a member recently because the wealth of knowledge here is priceless." 
-Chris R

Join Today!