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D7 17A track adjuster

D7 17A track adjuster

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catdude
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While tearing out cement walls, floors and footings my left track became extremely loose. I was able to put the track back on without much trouble although upon further inspection I noticed the seal in the adjusting cylinder failed and is allowing all of the grease to leak out. I would like to know if this seal is available and how much work is involved. As always, thanks for your help.
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Fri, Aug 5, 2011 8:52 AM
Old Magnet
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Whats the serial number of your tractor?.....there are a couple of versions of the adjuster seals.
Normally this is a split the track project to get the load off the adjuster unless someone knows otherwise. You might be able to figure out a safe method of pulling/blocking the idler forward enough to get access to the end seals but if the piston and cylinder need to come out I don't think you have a choice.
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Fri, Aug 5, 2011 10:55 AM
catdude
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Whats the serial number of your tractor?.....there are a couple of versions of the adjuster seals.
Normally this is a split the track project to get the load off the adjuster unless someone knows otherwise. You might be able to figure out a safe method of pulling/blocking the idler forward enough to get access to the end seals but if the piston and cylinder need to come out I don't think you have a choice.
My serial number is 8742. My tracks are wore out, drive sprocket wore and idler possibly needs work. I would like to finish the job I am on, if I get the track tightened would it be possible to make a large heavy shim or stop to keep it in place or is there no safe way to do this? I need it for a half day as my other dozers are not up to this kind of work. Thanks for your time and help.
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Sat, Aug 6, 2011 2:57 AM
bluox
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Reply to catdude:
My serial number is 8742. My tracks are wore out, drive sprocket wore and idler possibly needs work. I would like to finish the job I am on, if I get the track tightened would it be possible to make a large heavy shim or stop to keep it in place or is there no safe way to do this? I need it for a half day as my other dozers are not up to this kind of work. Thanks for your time and help.



Catdude,
Order a set of seals from your cat dealer,when you pick them up ask the service dept.the quick way to change seal .All you need is a bottle jack and wrenches,takes less than 30 minutes.

Good luck
Bob
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Sat, Aug 6, 2011 3:27 AM
catsilver
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Reply to bluox:



Catdude,
Order a set of seals from your cat dealer,when you pick them up ask the service dept.the quick way to change seal .All you need is a bottle jack and wrenches,takes less than 30 minutes.

Good luck
Bob
If you are thinking of trying to push the spring back with a bottle jack to get clearance--don't, if the jack slips it will take your head off, and you won't get any warning, the only way to get the spring back is to pull it back with the track and take up the slack with the safety nut at the back. I can't remember how much clearance there is around a D7 track adjuster, but the safest way is to split the track and take the idler forward.
Smaller machines can be done doing as I've already said and then taking the spring out. just be very careful.
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Sat, Aug 6, 2011 3:37 AM
bluox
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Reply to catsilver:
If you are thinking of trying to push the spring back with a bottle jack to get clearance--don't, if the jack slips it will take your head off, and you won't get any warning, the only way to get the spring back is to pull it back with the track and take up the slack with the safety nut at the back. I can't remember how much clearance there is around a D7 track adjuster, but the safest way is to split the track and take the idler forward.
Smaller machines can be done doing as I've already said and then taking the spring out. just be very careful.
[quote="catsilver"]If you are thinking of trying to push the spring back with a bottle jack to get clearance--don't, if the jack slips it will take your head off, and you won't get any warning, the only way to get the spring back is to pull it back with the track and take up the slack with the safety nut at the back. I can't remember how much clearance there is around a D7 track adjuster, but the safest way is to split the track and take the idler forward.
Smaller machines can be done doing as I've already said and then taking the spring out. just be very careful.[/quote]

Why would you want to push the spring back?
Bob
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Sat, Aug 6, 2011 3:49 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to bluox:
[quote="catsilver"]If you are thinking of trying to push the spring back with a bottle jack to get clearance--don't, if the jack slips it will take your head off, and you won't get any warning, the only way to get the spring back is to pull it back with the track and take up the slack with the safety nut at the back. I can't remember how much clearance there is around a D7 track adjuster, but the safest way is to split the track and take the idler forward.
Smaller machines can be done doing as I've already said and then taking the spring out. just be very careful.[/quote]

Why would you want to push the spring back?
Bob
I have seen a block welded in behind the yoke as an emergency fix but I sure don't want to recommend it.

Here is the parts diagram for your serial number.
That's an early one just after the screw type was changed for the hydraulic type at sr. #7408
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Sat, Aug 6, 2011 4:21 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I have seen a block welded in behind the yoke as an emergency fix but I sure don't want to recommend it.

Here is the parts diagram for your serial number.
That's an early one just after the screw type was changed for the hydraulic type at sr. #7408
I don't want to speak for catsilver but I think he is thinking the later 47A/48A D7's where you have to pull the recoil spring back, remove the spring stops and release the spring loading before you can open up access to the hydraulic adjuster seals. The late D6's and the D7's require that the idler be pulled forward to open access. I'd be surprised if Cat would recommend the bottle jack method of obtaining the needed clearance but with shot/worn out undercarriage it may not be that big of a chore.......so long as I'm not the one that has to do it.

Where are you on track adjustment (when it's working)?
Dimension #2 should not be less than 2 inches.
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Sat, Aug 6, 2011 8:26 AM
catdude
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I don't want to speak for catsilver but I think he is thinking the later 47A/48A D7's where you have to pull the recoil spring back, remove the spring stops and release the spring loading before you can open up access to the hydraulic adjuster seals. The late D6's and the D7's require that the idler be pulled forward to open access. I'd be surprised if Cat would recommend the bottle jack method of obtaining the needed clearance but with shot/worn out undercarriage it may not be that big of a chore.......so long as I'm not the one that has to do it.

Where are you on track adjustment (when it's working)?
Dimension #2 should not be less than 2 inches.
My tracks are adjusted all the way and even after raising the two upper roller posts 2'' each, the tracks still slip off several times a day if I am not careful. I hope to find tracks and other needed parts that are at least better than mine. I thank you for the warning on safety and would like to say I am always over -cautious. I will talk to the dealer and hopefully be turning dirt soon. Thanks everybody!
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Sat, Aug 6, 2011 10:16 AM
bluox
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I don't want to speak for catsilver but I think he is thinking the later 47A/48A D7's where you have to pull the recoil spring back, remove the spring stops and release the spring loading before you can open up access to the hydraulic adjuster seals. The late D6's and the D7's require that the idler be pulled forward to open access. I'd be surprised if Cat would recommend the bottle jack method of obtaining the needed clearance but with shot/worn out undercarriage it may not be that big of a chore.......so long as I'm not the one that has to do it.

Where are you on track adjustment (when it's working)?
Dimension #2 should not be less than 2 inches.
[quote="Old Magnet"]I don't want to speak for catsilver but I think he is thinking the later 47A/48A D7's where you have to pull the recoil spring back, remove the spring stops and release the spring loading before you can open up access to the hydraulic adjuster seals. The late D6's and the D7's require that the idler be pulled forward to open access. I'd be surprised if Cat would recommend the bottle jack method of obtaining the needed clearance but with shot/worn out undercarriage it may not be that big of a chore.......so long as I'm not the one that has to do it.

Where are you on track adjustment (when it's working)?
Dimension #2 should not be less than 2 inches.[/quote]

O.M.,your ignorance of Cat machines is mind boggling.
Bob
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Sat, Aug 6, 2011 12:13 PM
bluox
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Reply to catdude:
My tracks are adjusted all the way and even after raising the two upper roller posts 2'' each, the tracks still slip off several times a day if I am not careful. I hope to find tracks and other needed parts that are at least better than mine. I thank you for the warning on safety and would like to say I am always over -cautious. I will talk to the dealer and hopefully be turning dirt soon. Thanks everybody!


Catdude, you might have to drop a link to get your track adjuster to work.Resealing a adjuster doesn't involve moving the recoil spring.
Good luck
Bob
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Sat, Aug 6, 2011 12:20 PM
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